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richcarl32 Samba Member

Joined: August 02, 2006 Posts: 87
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 12:36 pm Post subject: pushrod tube seals |
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if one wanted to change the pushrod tube seals on a stock 2.0 L FI, would it be impossible to do such a job with the engine installed or is this an engine removed job. Any tips or advice on this subject? i suspect i have a vacuum leak in this area. Vacuum is everything on a FI vw right? _________________ Richard Carlton
78 Bay
2.0 L FI |
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westy78 Samba Member

Joined: August 20, 2002 Posts: 2005 Location: Portland OR
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 12:42 pm Post subject: |
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Removal of the engine for pushrod tube seals is a 1600 thing. On a typeIV engine remove the rocker arms, wire retainer, and pushrods and then you can pull the tubes out through the heads. It's reccomended that you get good quality Viton seals for best lifespan and sealing. _________________ Jasan C.
'78 Westy
VW Campmobile, it goes on vacation with you. |
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BIGTSV Samba Member

Joined: August 03, 2005 Posts: 593 Location: Columbus Ohio
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 12:49 pm Post subject: |
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A Corvair trick for keeping heat off of the seals is to use white high tempreature paint. Paint the push rod tube area by the seal with the paint, don't have to go crazy with the paint, just enought to help keep the heat off of the seal _________________ 1989 VW White Star
English made DR Martens |
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richcarl32 Samba Member

Joined: August 02, 2006 Posts: 87
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 1:00 pm Post subject: |
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okay, Remove the rocker armsand the wire retainer, pull the tubes , replace the seals ans then paint my new ones with white temperature paint. Wher can i find white temperature paint? and how much do i need? and how much should it cost? i bought the seals from the busdepot. they were not very expensive though. i am betting even if they aremt the best brand or quality they will be better than the 28 year old ones i have now, especially sinc htey will be with a fresh coat of paint. _________________ Richard Carlton
78 Bay
2.0 L FI |
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renobdarb Samba Member

Joined: September 13, 2005 Posts: 878 Location: Eastern Idaho
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 1:05 pm Post subject: |
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I asked this question here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=167320&highlight=
and got some comforting responses and advice. Apparently it's relatively easy (haven't gotten around to it myself, but it's on the schedule for this fall).
Here's a really good article that will walk you right through it from Type2.com:
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Leaky pushrod tube oil seals are a common cause of oil leaks on the VW air-cooled engines. To fix the leak, you have to remove the pushrod tubes and replace the seals on both ends.
It's not a technically difficult task, but it is time-consuming and will try your patience. It will be easier to do the job with the rear wheels removed.
NOTE:This procedure applies only to the Type 4 engine. To replace the pushrod tube oil seals on a Type 1 engine is much more involved, since the cylinder heads have to come off.
To remove the pushrod tubes,
1) Remove valve cover -- get your big honkin' screwdriver under the bail and pry it down (don't pry it up. You'll regret it. Ask me how I know).
2) You are now faced with your rocker arms. Note that there is a thin metal wire spring thing that is very oddly shaped and goes the length of the head, fitted under the rocker arms and holds the pushrod tubes in place. Pay attention to how it goes because you will need to know later. This is another reason for doing only one side at a time so you can reference the other side for reassembly. Anyway, loosen the rocker arm nuts a bit so you have enough slack to get that spring out. Try not to bend it up too much.
3) Get a clean paper towel or something similar to keep all the parts on. Put the spring on the towel. Now remove the rocker arm nuts and washers and put them on your towel. Don't lose 'em. Pull the rocker arms off the studs and be careful as they will want to fall apart as soon as they are free from the studs. Put them on the towel next to each other like they are in the engine. This is one of those jobs where you want to avoid mixing stuff up.
4) Remove a pushrod (I do these one at a time so I don't get the pushrods mixed up. Just pull it right out. Sometimes they are full of oil and surprise you. Lay it on the paper towel, make sure it's straight by rolling it. If it's bent, time for a new one.
5) Remove pushrod tube. You do this by twisting/pushing/pulling it out through the cylinder head. Many say not to use pliers on the tube but if you use pliers and squeeze lightly (so as not to crush the tube) you'll be OK, I used pliers when I did it and they're MUCH easier to get out that way. Just be sure to squeeze very lightly. You usually need to set up a twisting motion to break them free and then pull back firmly but gently and pull the tube out through the head.
6) Clean up old tubes or replace them. Use parts cleaner, like brake parts cleaner or carb cleaner. Get all the crud off the tubes, you may find that they are not supposed to be black. You may also elect to purchase a complete set of new pushrod tubes. Remove the old seals from the tubes if you are reusing them. I usually get them off by getting a screwdriver blade under the seal and prying it off the tube.
7) Install new seals. There are two kinds available. One is the stock VW seal and the other is the seal that gets used on the Porsche version of the same engine. Buy the expensive Porsche version. Word is they will outlast the VW seals quite well. You will need 16 seals for the job and the seal for the case end of the tube is smaller than the seal for the cylinder head end. So you should have 8 of the large seals and 8 of the small.
Clean up the sealing surfaces on the cylinder head and the engine case. Use a paper towel moistened your parts cleaner of choice. Be thorough, any dirt on the sealing surface will cause leakage. Take your time and do it right.
9) Repeat with each pushrod tube.
10) Put everything back together. When reinstalling the pushrod tubes, you need to make sure they seat all the way. They don't tend to want to go all the way in by hand. I used a big 1/2" drive extension as a drift and gently tapped the tubes home with a hammer. Be careful doing this that you don't pinch the seals on the head end.
Make sure that you put that wire spring thing back in correctly. It holds the pushrod tubes in place. Again, don't mix up the pushrods, rockers, etc. Also, when putting things back together, you will want to make sure that the pushrods seat correctly in the lifters. If you twist them around by hand you can just feel them slip in where they're supposed to be. After you're done, put new valve cover gaskets on (don't use sealer, just a thin coat of wheel bearing grease on both sides of the gasket). If the sealing surfaces for the valve cover gaskets on the heads are rough, it is wise to take some steel wool and use it to smooth the cylinder head surface out. This will stop those pesky valve cover gasket leaks. If you have solid lifters, you will need to adjust the valves after this operation (that's another whole procedure, but is written up well in Muir). Some say if you have hydraulic lifters you also need to adjust but I've seen it done without adjusting and it's been fine.
11) Have a beer!
Sean Bartnik |
_________________ ----------
1978 Campmobile, 2000cc w/hydro lifters, dual Weber 44 IDF carbs (50 idle jets, 115 main jets), SVDA distributor w/Compufire. |
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ChuxBus Samba Member

Joined: March 19, 2005 Posts: 299 Location: East Atlanta, GA
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 1:56 pm Post subject: |
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I would guess that the primary symptom of a faulty push rod tube seal would be the puddle of oil in the driveway. I wonder to what extent such an issue would affect the engine's ability to run (ie. the vacuum leaks mentioned in the first post)?
I have a drippy push rod tube seal (engine side), but the engine runs fine. _________________ -Chuck
1978 Bus & 1969 Bug
"Don't make a fuss, just get on the bus" -Frank Zappa |
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ChiTwnVW Samba Member

Joined: November 18, 2004 Posts: 1174 Location: Home. Sweat home.
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 4:05 pm Post subject: |
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Isn't a vacuum leak mostly related to fuel delivery? Can't imagine the pushrod tubes leaking doing much on that front... |
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richcarl32 Samba Member

Joined: August 02, 2006 Posts: 87
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 4:08 pm Post subject: |
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i am just trying everything that i can think of to sure up the FI system on this beast. she will crank but wont run more than a second or two. i have checked the afm and its resistance checks out and it does activate the fual pump whenever the flap is opened all the way. my next guess is the vacumm system. i am replacing the cracked elbow on the brake hose to the decel valve. the oil breather seals and i was told to also check the valve cover gaskets and the push rod tube seals. so that is what i am doing. _________________ Richard Carlton
78 Bay
2.0 L FI |
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BIGTSV Samba Member

Joined: August 03, 2005 Posts: 593 Location: Columbus Ohio
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 4:18 pm Post subject: |
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Any auto parts store will have high temperature engine paint, I ended up using Ford gray because I could not find white. Just cover the tube and seal area enough to give it a good coat. _________________ 1989 VW White Star
English made DR Martens |
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ChiTwnVW Samba Member

Joined: November 18, 2004 Posts: 1174 Location: Home. Sweat home.
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 4:44 pm Post subject: |
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richcarl32 wrote: |
... i was told to also check the valve cover gaskets and the push rod tube seals. so that is what i am doing. |
It won't be fun job, on your back with not much clearance. But as said above remove rockers and pushrods, the then yank the tubes.
Have you replaced the temp sensor by #3? I know that was giving me some grief, it wouldn't idle right until it ran for awhile.  |
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VWLover77 Samba Member

Joined: June 20, 2003 Posts: 1001 Location: North Canton, Ohio
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:26 pm Post subject: |
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richcarl32 wrote: |
i am just trying everything that i can think of to sure up the FI system on this beast. she will crank but wont run more than a second or two. i have checked the afm and its resistance checks out and it does activate the fual pump whenever the flap is opened all the way. my next guess is the vacumm system. i am replacing the cracked elbow on the brake hose to the decel valve. the oil breather seals and i was told to also check the valve cover gaskets and the push rod tube seals. so that is what i am doing. |
In my experience, it will take a major vacuum leak to kill the engine. Often, one of the big vacuum hoses can come loose without you noticing. Even with one of these loose, it will still run with an open throttle, but not idle.
I would spend my time focusing on the vacuum hoses themselves - don't forget the line to the brake booster. Leaky oil seals in the engine will have virtually no impact on your problem. Don't waste your time with them - yet!
Don _________________ Don
1978 Westy
1971 Super Beetle Convertible
"If more of us valued food and cheer and song above hoarded gold, it would be a merrier world." - J.R.R. Tolkien |
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josh Samba Member

Joined: July 13, 2003 Posts: 1773 Location: laid back in the tall grass
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:38 pm Post subject: |
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Pushrod tube seals are an oil leak issue, not a vaccum issue. If they leak oil yes replace the seals, but if you have a driveability or performance issue, look elswhere. |
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richcarl32 Samba Member

Joined: August 02, 2006 Posts: 87
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 5:52 pm Post subject: |
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it will not run even at full throttle. it will only crank and run for one second a the most. then it dies. dies dead, dead, dead! i can crank it a couple of times in a row and then i will have to let it sit for a while to crank. it acts as if it is flooded. after i let it sit for a couple minutes, it will crank again but not run. _________________ Richard Carlton
78 Bay
2.0 L FI |
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josh Samba Member

Joined: July 13, 2003 Posts: 1773 Location: laid back in the tall grass
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 6:31 pm Post subject: |
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Do you have a Bentley manual?
If not, get one.
There is a very systematic aproach to testing all of the components of the fuel injection in that book.
That book also states that most problems are not caused by the fuel injection system, which is true.
Only after the engine and ignition system are confirmed to be in perfect working order, should the fuel injection be suspect.
And if you have to let it sit before you can crank it again you need to charge the battery. |
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notsobigkahuna Samba Member
Joined: February 11, 2002 Posts: 464 Location: Sandbanks Ont. Canada
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 9:19 pm Post subject: |
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i have done the seals on my bus 3x - everytime the same. the first 2 were done with viton seals and they lasted roughly 3000 miles each. the 3rd time i got the green ones from a vw dealer - 25 k and not a drop. i was told this by an old vw guy in vermont - get the green ones from the dealer. wish i had done that the 1st time. they aint cheap but its an awful job to be doing over and over
k |
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germansupplyscott Samba Member

Joined: May 22, 2004 Posts: 7272 Location: toronto
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 9:35 pm Post subject: |
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the seals we sell are the same as the dealer ones only less $. they are made by victor reinze. _________________ SL |
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Tram Samba Socialist

Joined: May 02, 2003 Posts: 23022 Location: Northwest of Normal
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Posted: Sun Aug 06, 2006 10:18 pm Post subject: |
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If I had to guess, I'd say that only the cold start system is functioning. Either that, or your fuel pump runs for a second, then quits. First, check your fuel pump and fuel pressure. If that is good, the start checking the wiring and relays. Also, check your vacuum system as suggested previously.
A common item that causes this is the little ground wire that grounds right at the double relay. Put a new end on it, and make sure it's REALLY GROUNDED.
It ain't pushrod tube seals.  _________________ Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
Bryan67 wrote: |
Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
Those who can- do.
Those who can't? Subaru. |
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richcarl32 Samba Member

Joined: August 02, 2006 Posts: 87
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Posted: Mon Aug 07, 2006 4:56 am Post subject: |
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new fuel pump, and fuel pressure is okay. _________________ Richard Carlton
78 Bay
2.0 L FI |
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Tram Samba Socialist

Joined: May 02, 2003 Posts: 23022 Location: Northwest of Normal
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Posted: Mon Aug 07, 2006 10:02 am Post subject: |
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richcarl32 wrote: |
new fuel pump, and fuel pressure is okay. |
Any chance that this is actually an ignition issue?  _________________ Немає виправдання для війни! Я з Україною.
Bryan67 wrote: |
Just my hands. And a little lube. No tools. |
Those who can- do.
Those who can't? Subaru. |
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twinfalls Samba Member

Joined: November 21, 2003 Posts: 2133 Location: France
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Posted: Mon Aug 07, 2006 10:17 am Post subject: |
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Is the "paint the pushrod under the seal" trick, a usual proven procedure ? _________________ Stock 1974 US Westy, AW-A 1800cc dual carbs. Twin Falls is my favorite site on the Churchill river in Manitoba. |
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