10 Degree mount help from someone who has installed it....

STEVE0WE · Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 5:09 am Post subject:

Install was very easy. Everything bolted up and shifts smoothly. I ended up going in the tunnel, installing a new bushing and putting in a new shifter. Here are a couple of photos. The last one is of another car we have at the shop that is getting some work done to it also. Might have to test drive that one a few times!!!!

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Everything look ok?

runslikeapenguin · Posted: Wed Jan 10, 2007 12:05 pm Post subject:

how much did you have to trim the nose cone mount?
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STEVE0WE · Posted: Fri Jan 12, 2007 6:06 am Post subject:

I had to trip off just about 1 inch.

hethen57 · Posted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 3:08 pm Post subject:

I had no idea there were so many variations of this installation. I used the stock coupler and did not change the shift rod at all and mine shifts great. After the install, the two main problems I noticed with this kit were: (1) the front mount hangs a little below the pan and looks like it could get hung up on things (I will need to fab some kind of skid), and (2) the 10 degree angle can eat up a couple of inches of travel in the rear because you move the inner CV up and inch or so and your downward travel is reduced by a couple of inches out at the tire (while your upper limit is fixed by body and t-arms). Did any of you guys who did this install notice these things?
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RealAwesomeNinja · Samba Member Joined: January 18, 2005 Posts: 184

Bringing this thread back from the dead...

I removed my engine today because it was sitting lopsided.

Here is what I found:

The tranny is sitting about an 1/8 inch "cockeyed" ( I hope that is the right word. ) So if you picture the bellhousing face as a straight line perpendicular to the frame horns"

My trans is off a little bit and it makes the engine sit too close to the firewall on one side and way far away from it on the other side.

Long (probably confusing) story short how can I get the trans to sit flush ( I was thinking a washer or something along those lines added to one side ) without removing the welded tabs on the frame horns ?

Probably gonna be something where you have to have experience with this kit....

If this was a totally useless post because of my diagram please say so and I will post a actual picture in the next day or so.

THANKS?
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wibaja · Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 8:59 pm Post subject:

Your post is understandable. I am getting ready to do this install and have been reading posts for a while now. Measure twice and weld once. You have to take several measurements to make certain the trans is exactly where it should be. I think you would be best off cutting the two tabs on the framehorns and trying to straighten the tranny.

runslikeapenguin · Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 9:01 pm Post subject:

hey dont look at me! Shocked

really how off was it? and where was it off? what part was off?
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RealAwesomeNinja · Samba Member Joined: January 18, 2005 Posts: 184

Unless you have a webcam I can't. If you do have a webcam, your a sick f*cker anyways Evil or Very Mad

I am not blaming you dude, I mean I asked for help and you did great on everything, I just want to figure out how to fix it without breaking off the tabs . (The little ones we had to weld to the framehorns)

I was amazed how that little 1/8 inch or whatever made the engine sit an inch closer to the firewall. The engine is touching the firewall because of it!!

I am gonna pay some shop to install the shocks and they will have it done by the end of the week, (cheaper than a welder for me) but I will still be stuck with this lopsided trans. Got any ideas?
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Adrenaline Junky · Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 9:41 pm Post subject:

Ninja,

Something sounds more out of wack than 1/8 in on your mount. Does the nose fit in the center of the tunnel? Are the ends of the frame horns parallel? Is one shorter than the other? Maybe someone ground one down and when you mounted the rear tab you measured correct but the horn was shorter? I don't know just fishing here. Maybe check to see if the whole torsion housing is bent.

Good luck

RealAwesomeNinja · Samba Member Joined: January 18, 2005 Posts: 184

runslikeapenguin · Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 11:01 pm Post subject:

hey mike remember how we were looking at the frame horns with the car off the ground and something dident look level? perhaps its not my fault, or mabey thats just wishfull thinking from me Smile

and come get your battery, i used it in my hood ride tonight to test some wiring, come get it before i become attached to it.
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bigtreads · Posted: Sun Feb 18, 2007 11:15 pm Post subject:

where are you referencing your motor and fire wall gaps from ? Just wondering if the offset of the 2 banks of cylinders (left side right side) might be throwing you off ???

RealAwesomeNinja · Samba Member Joined: January 18, 2005 Posts: 184

I am referencing the engine by how close the carbs are to the firewall. One is almost touching and the other is a nice inch maybe inch and a quarter away.

penguin,

Hey penguin I am getting the shocks installed tuesday and I think this shop the guy I talked to owns is going to give me some limit straps and install them at the same time.

When I come get the battery can we figure out a way to mount the top part of the seat belt harness onto the cage? Otherwise I will tell the guy to put a tab on and I'll just work on it from there.

bigtreads,

The problem isnt how the engine looks (don't really care about that) its that the supports we made from the frame horn to the cage had to be cut on one side because the j tubes (part of the exhaust) were hitting when I put the engine in. They are very very close to not hitting that is why I want to pick everyone's brain and see what a possible solution might be.
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subybaja · Posted: Mon Feb 19, 2007 1:21 am Post subject:

How about your fan shroud? Is it crooked too?
Check the cylinder location in this diagram. Let me guess, your driver's side carb is closer?

No wonder everyone hates the 10* mount. I gotta get off my ass and finish duplicating the old bolt-in ones.
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RealAwesomeNinja · Samba Member Joined: January 18, 2005 Posts: 184

See if you can tell which tab is further away from the end of the frame horn:

Left Side:

OR

Right Side:

Here is both together: ( BIG HINT )

Here is front mount:

Looks ok to me.

I measured the right and the left distance from the tab to the end of the frame horn and got a 3/16 " difference.

Got any ideas on how to fix that? (I know I could just break off tab and try to reset position, got any other ideas...)
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bigtreads · Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 12:38 am Post subject:

Im thinking you will find it's not the one tab that is out of wack but that the whole trans is mounted a bit to far forward. The reason one carb is closer than the other is due to the off set of the cylinders - so basicly one side of the motor (cylinders head and intake/carb) will be closer to the front of the vehicle due to the way a flat 4 is layed out (subybajas diagram). Even if one tab is out I can't see moving 3/16 making a whole lot of difference. So if it was me I would not worrie about the mounts. I would make sure the thing shifts properly and that there is enough room for that carb against the fire wall including when offroad and everything moves around a bit. I would then heat up the lower peice of pipe welded to the engine fork and persuade it to line up with the down tube that I would bend enough to clear the exhaust. After that measure up a chunk of tube to fill the gap between the 2 and weld it in as a spacer. The arm might not be straight but fixing a arm that is mostly unseen that won't compromise strength (if done right) is much better than redoing the whole trans install which is the only other option as I see it as a tee pee style exhaust won't work in a full body baja. Im 1/2 way on my install and I didn't think of the carb/firewall issue and also plan to run duals so I hope Im not in the same boat Rolling Eyes

RealAwesomeNinja · Samba Member Joined: January 18, 2005 Posts: 184

Hey bigtreads,

My advice would be (you may not like this) attach engine to tranny BEFORE you do final welding. Stick it in (whole giant tranny-engine assembly) and make sure it all lines up then finish everything. Just doing that would of made me move the tab a little and everything would of fit great.

As it was I just mocked up to the tranny and look what I got.
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runslikeapenguin · Posted: Tue Feb 20, 2007 12:50 am Post subject:

mike as long as you dont post a pic of that gusset were cool Laughing

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RealAwesomeNinja · Samba Member Joined: January 18, 2005 Posts: 184

hey penguin,

want to weld some seat belt tabs on? Very Happy

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10 Degree mount help from someone who has installed it....
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