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Raney Samba Member
Joined: April 10, 2006 Posts: 125
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Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 3:16 pm Post subject: Rust got pwnd! |
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Like many of us late model owners, I too had rust all around the crescent vents. I decided to take pictures to document this repair process - I hope that this helps some people.
Here you see the back window portion already removed. I carefully separated the lip on the drip channel from the metal and cut out the rest.
Here are the donor pieces i got from a guy here on the samba. Ground off the drip rail and drilled out the spot welds to remove the piece.
trimming carefully to fit. notice the separted drip rail and how its pushed up into the channel.
welded in place. notice the drip rail portion hammered flat back over the piece.
Both sides 90% completed. To finish completely they'll need more grinding, some lead, and finally a skim coat of filler to finish
Moving on the the crescent vents. I was very happy with the work on the rear window sections and excited to move on to primer, but some investigation found even more rust.
It was time to cut those out.
I asked a few questions regarding replacing the vents with non vented sections, and it looked like it could be done, so it was off to the junk yard to cut some out. I took these from what i believe was a 1969. Not all will work, i believe vw made changes to the back window size sometime during the late 60's.
I got them both for $14.00. The lady thought they were some fender flares. Note that beetles without vents also came with the dreaded foam sound insulation. This was completely removed and painted before installation.
here is that section cut out.
and with the vent section removed (spot welds) and painted with rust bullet.
And finally it cut to fit and spot welded in.
All in all it was a fairly simple task. Just as long as you're careful with your cuts, it's not too bad. Theres really no going back once you start, so measure before you commit. I have more pictues if anyone needs them, and can explain in more detail if necessary.
I'll post pictures of the final result after i finish welding, add some lead (yes lead) and skim coat it.
NEW PICTURES
Did some more welding and grinding today. I'll have to do a little bit more before I apply any lead. More to come after that.
That's the left and right sides - no more vents.
Last edited by Raney on Sun Oct 21, 2007 6:56 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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lowmitsu Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2004 Posts: 1102 Location: Summerville,SC
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Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 3:43 pm Post subject: |
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Awsome work & awesome post!!! |
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piemat Snobbish Elite Volkswagen Fanatic

Joined: February 20, 2005 Posts: 911 Location: Texas
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coW Samba Member
Joined: September 21, 2004 Posts: 2096 Location: New England
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Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 4:47 pm Post subject: |
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Looks great!
I just did the same repair under the crescent but was able to use a smaller piece. It was tricky for me but I'm a bodywork newbie.
When you say "lead" what do you mean, exactly? |
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bugninva Samba Member

Joined: December 14, 2004 Posts: 8858 Location: sound it out.
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Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 5:01 pm Post subject: |
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coW wrote: |
When you say "lead" what do you mean, exactly? |
body solder. what was used before plastic filler....(used to be lead, but if you buy it today it is nearly lead free.)
leading done right will require no skim coat of plastic filler, since the lead is the "filler" _________________
[email protected] wrote: |
With a show of hands, who has built over 1000 engines in the last 25 years? Anyone? |
GEX has. Just sayin |
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clearsurf2001 Samba Vaccinator

Joined: February 26, 2004 Posts: 1671 Location: Dave-AKA-fortyeye-Oceanside, Ca
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Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 5:06 pm Post subject: |
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bugninva wrote: |
coW wrote: |
When you say "lead" what do you mean, exactly? |
body solder. what was used before plastic filler....(used to be lead, but if you buy it today it is nearly lead free.)
leading done right will require no skim coat of plastic filler, since the lead is the "filler" |
Exactly. Think of the material that Mario's head is made of (and something he'd never think of using for true bodywork). All metal baby. _________________ Get ready for the injection
EverettB wrote: |
Make sure it is coherent. Rodney |
mharney wrote: |
I think Glenn has an EMPI crank in his engine. |
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rustbucket74 Samba Member
Joined: May 28, 2007 Posts: 14
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Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 6:05 pm Post subject: |
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Nice write up. It looks pretty easy when someone else does it. How much time did it take you? |
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DrDarby Samba Member
Joined: May 12, 2004 Posts: 6541 Location: Northern Illinois
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Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 7:10 pm Post subject: |
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Great post and fantastic pictures of the car cut open so folks can see what's in there. This post should be made a "sticky" and saved ! _________________ Midwest Autosavers, Inc. Crystal Lake, IL |
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Raney Samba Member
Joined: April 10, 2006 Posts: 125
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Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 7:44 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the compliments - i'm pretty proud of it.
I think you should all know that this was my first endeavor into bodywork. I am as much as a newb as anyone else (i really havent even done that much welding), so dont let that discourage you.
I did have a lot of help from a friend (BigLoaf), and it wouldnt have come out that nicely without that.
If i was good enough with lead, i wouldnt need any filler, but I'm no where near skilled enough.
In terms of time, this was over a period of two months, since i have college and work. Total time would probably be about 3 to 4 days. I couldnt have done it in that time even if i had the luxury because I had to walk away a number of times because i was getting frustrated. It's best to work with a cool head so you dont make mistakes.
I'd be very flattered if it was made into a sticky. we'll see. |
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Glenn  Mr. 010

Joined: December 25, 2001 Posts: 79415 Location: Sneaking up behind you
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Posted: Sat Oct 13, 2007 7:47 pm Post subject: |
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Very nice.
It's been added to the "Index to interesting Tech articles" Sticky. _________________ Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"
Member #1009
#BlueSquare
עַם יִשְׂרָאֵל חַי |
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oopseyesharted Samba Member

Joined: May 22, 2007 Posts: 188 Location: Cleveland Ohio
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Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 8:31 pm Post subject: |
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amazing work!!!
Nice job and write-up _________________ 1970 Beetle |
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Towel Rail Horizontally Opposed

Joined: April 15, 2005 Posts: 4622 Location: SE CR IA US NA PE
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Posted: Sun Oct 14, 2007 10:08 pm Post subject: |
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Good stuff! _________________ 1974 Thing -- under the knife
1967 Beetle -- spring/summer/fall driver
1996 Subaru OBW (EJ22, 5-speed, AWD) -- winter car, 3-seasons "don't feel like biking today" car
049 > 070 > 053 > 009 |
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HymieTheRobot Samba Member
Joined: October 02, 2007 Posts: 6 Location: Middlebury, VT
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 12:09 pm Post subject: Trying to do the same thing here |
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Hi all,
pretty new to the site -- so far a ton of good info.
Question:
Im trying to do the very same surgery as Raney did here, and Im having trouble finding replacement/ donor panels -- Up here in the northeast, there are very practically zero old VWs' left in any salvage yard, and apparently nobody up here allows pull-apart either.
My Bug is a 77 standard --There is a complete 68 that I can grab with a mashed up front, but the C-pillars are totally sound and rust-free. He did his transplant with a 69; does anybody know if they changed the rear and crescent window sizing/location at all between 68 and 69?
Please help -- its moving closer and closer to the crusher, and I have to make up my mind fast. They want 450 for the whole thing.
Or, if anybody has some spare sheet metal they want to send to a good home  |
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bugninva Samba Member

Joined: December 14, 2004 Posts: 8858 Location: sound it out.
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 12:13 pm Post subject: |
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the rear quarter windows got larger in 1965. the rear window changed in i believe 74....the area behind the rear/side window should be the same from 65-70, then the vents were there from 71-on(US spec cars)... _________________
[email protected] wrote: |
With a show of hands, who has built over 1000 engines in the last 25 years? Anyone? |
GEX has. Just sayin |
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pbajwabb Samba Member

Joined: April 03, 2007 Posts: 582
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Posted: Wed Oct 17, 2007 7:42 pm Post subject: |
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Nice work, looks way better now _________________ 1968
1969
1971
1965- Purchased Jan 2013 and ready to start the processes again |
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1971SuperBeetle Samba Member

Joined: December 08, 2006 Posts: 183 Location: Long Island, NY
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Posted: Thu Oct 18, 2007 8:46 am Post subject: |
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WOW awesome work |
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odecom5 Samba Member
Joined: July 17, 2006 Posts: 459 Location: CO
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Posted: Fri Nov 16, 2007 8:07 am Post subject: |
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oh wow man, awesome job! how much can i pay you to do my 74 like that?
you make it look so easy. i'd never be able to do that on my own  |
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deluxekombi67 Samba Member

Joined: July 21, 2004 Posts: 940 Location: Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 12:42 pm Post subject: |
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Two questions...first how did you carefully separated the lip on the drip channel? What tools did you use and also what did you do to do the cuts when cutting out the old metal. I need to do this to my bug and need some expert advice before i just start hacking away. i guess thats 3 questions...lol thanks _________________ 67 bugs are only days away from being a Fat Chick!
_______________________________________
OG 1973 standard with factory OG PAINT Porsche phone dial rims with hand painted crests
Hell yea i LOVE the Mullholland look and im from Florida so what?  |
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ghia4mea Samba Member

Joined: July 23, 2007 Posts: 478 Location: Largo Florida
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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 6:07 pm Post subject: |
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Do you do any painting/protecting to the underside/inside of the replaced metal before welding it in? Just curious if additional protection is required. |
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[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: November 23, 2002 Posts: 266
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Posted: Fri Aug 22, 2008 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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I think you could make a fortune here in north Alabama. |
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