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EDIS modified pulley balance tolerance ok?
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Alexander_Monday
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 6:23 am    Post subject: EDIS modified pulley balance tolerance ok? Reply with quote

I have modified a Berg equalizer pulley ( 6-3/4" diameter ) to be the trigger wheel for EDIS. I drilled 36 holes of the same diameter and depth equally spaced around the diameter taking out 2.4 grams each. I then removed the material between 2 of the holes for the missing tooth. I removed 2.6 grams while creating the missing tooth. I went to the 180 degree opposite 2 holes and removed an equal amount from the bottom of each of the 2 holes to remove 2.6 grams total from them. The scale I have is +- .2 grams accuracy.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Question is, will this be close enough for balance ( 8000 rpm ), or do I need to send it off to get the balance checked. ( Yes I know it wouldn't hurt to have it checked, however no one that I know of in this area SW Missouri can check it. )
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Alexander_Monday->What were the rings gapped at?
bedlamite->Almost enough.

andk5591 wrote:
The original german engineers have attained sainthood and it is impossible to improve perfection.
Anything that anyone does to deviate from the original designs will be made to wrench on 20 year old Yugos with Harbor Freight tools in hell.
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blue77bay
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

man at 1111101000000 rpm i would certainly be concerned with balance ,send it to jake he has a bad ass balancer or locate another balance shop to do it, i hope the rest is well balanced
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Alexander_Monday
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 7:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

LOL Good one, but its only 100100 holes.
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Alexander_Monday->What were the rings gapped at?
bedlamite->Almost enough.

andk5591 wrote:
The original german engineers have attained sainthood and it is impossible to improve perfection.
Anything that anyone does to deviate from the original designs will be made to wrench on 20 year old Yugos with Harbor Freight tools in hell.
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westcoast-paul
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 9:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

that looks like aluminum.

The VR sensor is a magnet. Am i missing something?
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Alexander_Monday
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Believe me it is steel. Took all evening to drill with hand drill & homemade jig.
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Danth’s or Parker’s Law:
“If you have to insist that you've won an internet argument, you've probably lost badly.”

Alexander_Monday->What were the rings gapped at?
bedlamite->Almost enough.

andk5591 wrote:
The original german engineers have attained sainthood and it is impossible to improve perfection.
Anything that anyone does to deviate from the original designs will be made to wrench on 20 year old Yugos with Harbor Freight tools in hell.
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Lionhart94010
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 11:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great Post Alexander,

I was thinking of doing the same type of thing with my berg pulley for my FI motor; you beat me to it!

I would be interested to hear how it works out and what size drill bit you decided on, bracket you have/ will make to mount the sensor… :0)
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Alexander_Monday
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lionhart,

I plan on fabricating a bracket for the VR sensor that attaches to the lower passenger side threaded hole ( universal case ) that is not used in the type 1. This is an experiment, so since I have started it let me go through the R&D to see if it works before you try it. I have to go out of town tonight and will not be back home until next week, at which time I plan on bench testing the design to see what the VR signal looks like on a scope compared to a factory Ford trigger wheel. If it looks promising I will then bench test the whole EDIS system. I am going to use MegaJolt to control the EDIS, and eventually MegaSquirt for FI as well as ignition, but I am taking little steps at a time before the plunge. I will keep you informed.

The actual reason for the post is that I do not know what level of accuracy is needed for the balance. I should be within .5 gram with my +-.2 gram scale. If anyone can tell me if this level of balance is sufficient I would greatly appreciate it.
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Danth’s or Parker’s Law:
“If you have to insist that you've won an internet argument, you've probably lost badly.”

Alexander_Monday->What were the rings gapped at?
bedlamite->Almost enough.

andk5591 wrote:
The original german engineers have attained sainthood and it is impossible to improve perfection.
Anything that anyone does to deviate from the original designs will be made to wrench on 20 year old Yugos with Harbor Freight tools in hell.
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koolkarmakombi
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PostPosted: Fri Sep 12, 2008 2:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alexander_Monday wrote:


The actual reason for the post is that I do not know what level of accuracy is needed for the balance. I should be within .5 gram with my +-.2 gram scale. If anyone can tell me if this level of balance is sufficient I would greatly appreciate it.


You are thinking about static balance ie rods, end for end and to each other are balanced like this. What you are looking for is dynamic balance. Spin that wheel @ 3000rpm and a gram out becomes a whole lot of wobble like a car tyre with a weight removed.

Good practice is to get it dynamically balanced along with everything else that spins.
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slowtwitch
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 4:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alexander, I'm in the process of doing something similar. I'm sending my pulley out , to be dynamic balanced.

Here's my project....if things go as planned (and they never do) Laughing . I'll have this setup in the engine in a few weeks.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Good luck with your project, looks good.
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the2ndcashboy
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 8:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Slowtwitch: where are you going to send your pulley to be balanced? I did mine using the toothwheel off of an Escort, and I'd like to know if its balanced well enough.
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mynameistory
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 13, 2008 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Unless you feel like sending out your whole crank assembly, pulley to pressure plate, don't bother. Although that thing IS pretty massive. I tried to make mine lightweight.

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Alexander_Monday
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 15, 2008 5:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lionheart,

Here is a picture of the vr signal on my ancient scope. (Excuse the blur I took it by hand while holding a cordless drill with the Berg pulley in the other) It looks identical to the signal from the factory trigger wheel! Very Happy I used an 11/32 bit for the first set of holes, and a 13/32 bit to clean up the holes. They are 1/4" deep. I have already taken apart the jig I made, however it consisted of a 1/4" piece of aluminum sheet that I had previously cut a 6-3/4" hole out of, a piece of plywood that the aluminum was bolted to, a long coupling nut that I drilled out to 11/32 (then 13/32) bolted to the board with spacers to the height I wanted through the aluminum to use as a drill bit guide. I drilled a hole every 10 degrees, centered 5 degrees offset, because the space between the holes is the equivalent of the teeth. I then removed the metal between 2 holes with the same jig. This is the stock size equalizer. You would need to adapt the hole sizes for a different diameter.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

_________________
Danth’s or Parker’s Law:
“If you have to insist that you've won an internet argument, you've probably lost badly.”

Alexander_Monday->What were the rings gapped at?
bedlamite->Almost enough.

andk5591 wrote:
The original german engineers have attained sainthood and it is impossible to improve perfection.
Anything that anyone does to deviate from the original designs will be made to wrench on 20 year old Yugos with Harbor Freight tools in hell.
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Lionhart94010
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 2:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alexander,

Great picture!

Do you see the missing tooth signal pass by on your scope?

Are you supercharging or turboing your bug? You may need wheel bars :0)

What is your ETA on firing-up your setup?
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Current VWs 71 T2 Westy SO-72/6(Miami), 71 Crew Cab, 2015 GSW TDI
Other owned VW’s 59, 68 1500s, 69 & 71 Bug’s; 72 & 73 S-Bug’s; 67 Westy, 67 Deluxe, Other 71 DC, 72 KG GT that now lives in Australia, 12 JSW TDI, 2015 GSW TDI, 2023 Tiguan
VW technical information sights
thesamba - www.ratwell.com - www.shoptalkforums.com/ - www.vw-resource.com - http://www.type2.com/
http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/ - www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm
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Mr. Unpopular
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 4:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I can't imagine you'll have a problem.

A friend of mine stuck a 20v Toyota motor in an old corolla. He used Megasquirt and an EDIS setup to run it. He just eyeballed the trigger wheel to the balancer and tacked it into place. He spun that motor 9200 RPM every chance he got without issues.
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Alexander_Monday
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 16, 2008 7:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lionhart94010 wrote:
Do you see the missing tooth signal pass by on your scope?


Yes, it is at the beginning of that photo. Here is another photo with the missing tooth signal toward the middle. Yes, I realize the polarity is backwards on the VR probe, but that was not important for this test.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Lionhart94010 wrote:
Are you supercharging or turboing your bug? You may need wheel bars :0)


I will be supercharging it if and when DLI gets the head units from Eaton. I have had a deposit there since January. Sad They said they could machine the trigger teeth into the new pulley set up for me, but they do not machine the pulley until the head units are there to make sure the offset distance is correct. Until then I will still be N/A, but with low compression and a supercharger camshaft that will be short on low end torque N/A. Maybe by the time I get the blower C.B. will have some of their new Street Eliminator end castings out so I can use them.

Lionhart94010 wrote:
What is your ETA on firing-up your setup?


I am waiting on custom spacers from Berg at the moment. Hopefully I will not need valve notches machined in the pistons which will cause even more delay, but I won't know until I get the spacers so I can clay the valve clearance. Also, I plan on initial fire up with the distributor to avoid fire up problems. I am hoping to have the engine back in within a month.

P.S. I realize now that the sensor location I picked by locating the missing tooth where I did will trap the alternator belt which means I will have to take the sensor loose to put a new belt on. Embarassed I am going to have the blower pulley machined with the missing tooth 9 teeth ahead of the space in the middle of the belt and make a new sensor mount that comes from the fuel pump block off.
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Danth’s or Parker’s Law:
“If you have to insist that you've won an internet argument, you've probably lost badly.”

Alexander_Monday->What were the rings gapped at?
bedlamite->Almost enough.

andk5591 wrote:
The original german engineers have attained sainthood and it is impossible to improve perfection.
Anything that anyone does to deviate from the original designs will be made to wrench on 20 year old Yugos with Harbor Freight tools in hell.
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Lionhart94010
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 17, 2008 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the better picture, sounds like you will have one fast bug when you are done :0)

I know what you mean waiting for parts is a drag :0( hope you get them soon!
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Current VWs 71 T2 Westy SO-72/6(Miami), 71 Crew Cab, 2015 GSW TDI
Other owned VW’s 59, 68 1500s, 69 & 71 Bug’s; 72 & 73 S-Bug’s; 67 Westy, 67 Deluxe, Other 71 DC, 72 KG GT that now lives in Australia, 12 JSW TDI, 2015 GSW TDI, 2023 Tiguan
VW technical information sights
thesamba - www.ratwell.com - www.shoptalkforums.com/ - www.vw-resource.com - http://www.type2.com/
http://bobhooversblog.blogspot.com/ - www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles.htm
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Alexander_Monday
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 8:04 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Lionhart94010 wrote:
I would be interested to hear how it works out


Well, I finally got the MegaJolt going last night.
For anyone considering this mod for a trigger wheel, it works great.
Rock steady timing, and the timing light showed smooth changes in
accordance with the readout on the computer.

If you do not have the machine equipment ( I don't ), take the time to
make a sturdy jig to hold the pulley and the drill bit steady. Make sure
you have set up a depth stop for the bit.

I took my jig apart after I did the drilling because it was composed of other
things laying around. You will have to improvise on the jig. I had a partial
sheet of 1/4" aluminum that I had cut wheel spacers out of and the holes
were coincidentally the same size as the OD of the pulley. I screwed the
aluminum to a piece of wood with a hole for the snout to go through.
This let the pulley sit in the hole with the area past the belt groove
exposed. I made a drill bit guide out of a long coupling nut with the
threads drilled out. I spaced the coupling nut to the proper height with
some scrap steel, and bolted it through the aluminum plate into the wood
with 2 hole conduit straps. I used a scrap piece of "something or other"
left over from another project for the stop.

Take your time while drilling and make sure the bit is sharp. The
material is tough, so plan on sharping the bit several times.

Make sure you take out the same weight of material with each hole.
While I weighed before and after each hole, the weight taken out was the
same ( +- .2 gram scale accuracy ), so I did not have to vary the depth.

When you are ready to make the "missing tooth" don't forget to weigh
before and after you take out the material between the holes. You will
need to take 1/2 of that amount out of each of the 2 holes 180 degrees
opposite from your "missing tooth" to keep the balance correct.

Test spin the pulley before you install it on the motor. Take it in small
increments to a higher rpm than you will be running to make sure it does
not wobble from imbalance.

My design goal was to make the space between the holes the same width
in degrees of travel as the tooth tip from a factory wheel, so if you use
the smaller Berg pulley you should modify your hole size proportionately
smaller to achieve this.

Also, position your "missing tooth" where your VR sensor is in the space
where the belt is not on the pulley so you don't trap the belt.
_________________
Danth’s or Parker’s Law:
“If you have to insist that you've won an internet argument, you've probably lost badly.”

Alexander_Monday->What were the rings gapped at?
bedlamite->Almost enough.

andk5591 wrote:
The original german engineers have attained sainthood and it is impossible to improve perfection.
Anything that anyone does to deviate from the original designs will be made to wrench on 20 year old Yugos with Harbor Freight tools in hell.
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miniman82
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 4:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Great post! Cool

Maybe I'll copy you, since my CB pully leaks like a friggin stuck pig. Evil or Very Mad

Alexander_Monday wrote:
Also, position your "missing tooth" where your VR sensor is in the space
where the belt is not on the pulley so you don't trap the belt.



I did that, but my belt is still trapped by my case return fittings (full flow setup). If that's not the issue in you particular setup, you can do like I did and fasten the sensor with a single phillips head screw. That way if something does happen, you only need basic hand tools (I know F*rd tends to use allen bolts on their sensors). The sensor I'm using had a locating dowel on the back of it, so if you drill that hole the right size, it'll be a nice snug fit and the phillips screw is all you'll need. Mine's never fallen off, or become loose.
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Glenn wrote:
satterley_sr wrote:

I just wanted to bitch but I'm getting no sympathy.


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Alexander_Monday
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually, I machined another keyway in the pulley to be able to move the
sensor. A machine shop wanted $120 to do it, so I figured what the heck if I
mess it up Ill buy another one. Believe it or not I used a sawsall, took my
time, and it came out perfect. I know I was shocked.
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Danth’s or Parker’s Law:
“If you have to insist that you've won an internet argument, you've probably lost badly.”

Alexander_Monday->What were the rings gapped at?
bedlamite->Almost enough.

andk5591 wrote:
The original german engineers have attained sainthood and it is impossible to improve perfection.
Anything that anyone does to deviate from the original designs will be made to wrench on 20 year old Yugos with Harbor Freight tools in hell.
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miniman82
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 21, 2008 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Alexander_Monday wrote:
Actually, I machined another keyway in the pulley to be able to move the
sensor. A machine shop wanted $120 to do it, so I figured what the heck if I
mess it up Ill buy another one. Believe it or not I used a sawsall, took my
time, and it came out perfect. I know I was shocked.



Laughing

I love stories about American ingenuity.
You're a modern day Edison, my friend. Very Happy
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Glenn wrote:
satterley_sr wrote:

I just wanted to bitch but I'm getting no sympathy.


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