Brosol H-32/34 PDSI-3 dual carbs; *update* they run!

[BellePlaine]

First off, a little background... my engine is unknown to me in terms of it year or displacement, the PO didn't think that it is the original engine. I know that's it's a T4 with a single progressive carb. It runs but honestly, I haven't yet gotten to know the engine because almost as soon as I acquired this engine in a 76 hardtop Westy, I was presented with an opportunity to save a 75 Riviera. The Riviera engine is seized and I'm planning on swapping engines and transmissions on the buses.

Through the Samba, I scored these dual carbs but I need to rebuild them. I've been through a lot of Samba material and my Haynes manual but I think now i just need some specific answers to these non-stock carbs. I've photoed one of my carbs and the linkage to help me ask my questions. Any kind of help is greatly appreciated, even a link for further reading is helpful. Thanks.

#1 Do these manifolds look like they will work? They came with spacers which I understand is for FI. Do I need a gasket between the spacer and the manifold and one between the spacer and head?

#2 Will a rebuild kit come with both of these gaskets? Speaking of which, will a rebuild kit for the original Solex 34 PDSIT-3 work for these carbs?

#3 The Vol. Mix Screw won't turn by hand...

#4 Vac. port; what size hose do I need? Hose clamps too? The other carb has one of these too, do they both attach to the dizzy via a "T"?

#5 Idle Jet; The screw says "91-55 Solex". Seems ok and a recommended size. Can I clean this or should it be replaced with a new one?

#6 This needle valve moves freely but I've noticed that it does get hung up on itself once in a while, should this piece be automatically replaced?

#7 Is this the idle port/tube? How do you clean this?

#8 What is the function of this tube?

#9 The main jet is in here. I've got a 135 and I've ordered a set of 130's because Aircooled.com recommends 130 even though the Kardons (Brazilian Solex?) came with 135.

#10 Air jet "150"; I don't think I can remove this. It's dirty though.

#11 Air jet "Solex 100" Can't remove.

#12 How do you clean these tight tubes?

#13 What is this port for? (Yes I know that I can't spell Venturi)

What does PDSI stand for anyway? I gather that PDSIT means that carbs have a choke. And what does PICT stand for?

#14 I understand the basic concept of a pivot linkage but I'm confused why this pivot arm has only two arms and not three. Also I seem to be missing a way to connect the linkage to the cable. I know about the barrel cable clamp but I don't even see what that would attach to... am I missing parts?

#15 No real question here, just a pic of my spacer and float.

Thanks for taking a look at these pics and I'm grateful for any tidbits of advice you may have for me.

Chris
_________________
'75 Riviera

Whether you are a novice or know your way around an ACVW, a day with Amskeptic is money well spent. My mechanical ability/knowledge/bus is always better after Colin visits.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/memberlist.php

[Riguy718]

You have so many questions that you numbered them
Dont have any answers but looks like you're learning a lot and it looks like fun...hmmm carbs
_________________
First Vehicle:
Bil(bo) 1970 Westy Stock [1600DP]
Take life slowly and enjoy it, especially in a VW bus!!!

[mnskmobi]

I'll have a bash at answering some of your questions!

[BellePlaine]

Here I go jumping in over my head again! I hope that these things run my engine after I’m though. I’ve begun rebuilding these carbs using carb cleaner chemicals, Gumout Spray, a green scrubby, an old toothbrush, and compressed air. I started this thread to learn about these carbs that I got on a trade so I thought I add my rebuild diary to it because the title still applies and I welcome any advice offered.

I’m using these two rebuild kits which I ordered from the Bus Depot. http://www.busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=021198573B and two new 130 main jets which I got from aircooled.net.

So far all I’ve done is take apart one of the carbs and soak it’s parts in the carb cleaner. It only takes a few hours of soaking for things to come clean. I sprayed every little orfice with the Gumout and then the compressed air. I’ve begun putting the bottom end together and now I’m ready to set the float level. I just have to do a refresher read up on it before I go at it.

Here are some pix.

I do have a concern that the inside of my manifold is rough like it was made from a bad cast. Do you think that is going to cause me major problems?

_________________
'75 Riviera

Whether you are a novice or know your way around an ACVW, a day with Amskeptic is money well spent. My mechanical ability/knowledge/bus is always better after Colin visits.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/memberlist.php

[Blaubus]

do not use green scrubbies to clean carbs. they have abrasive particles which can get stuck in a port. to clean, tape off all openings, and clean with carb cleaner and a brush.

i have owned similar brazilian carbs (32/34 PDSIT), so this much i know...

1. those manifolds look to be right, but i cannot see the port size on both the manifold and the carb. if the carb port is larger than the manifold port then problems occur- the vaporized fuel will turn back into liquid fuel when it hits the manifold edge. for an efficient running engine, the carb port should be a little smaller than the manifold port, and more important the head port should be a little larger than the manifold port. making sure they are, and keeping them aligned to each other at the head , with dowel pin, is called "match porting"

2. gasket above and below the throttle body- not a "spacer." the german carbs did not have a separate throttle body to my understanding, so you are unlikely to find enough gaskets in a standard 32 PDSIT carb kit.

3. too bad- probably why the previous owner sold it.

4. 3.5mm german hose from a local foreign parts store

5. dont monkey with that its fine- will come clean when you soak it

6. your valve might get hung up when you hold it in a position that the carb doesnt operate in, like the one shown in the photo- this doesnt mean its bad. new needle valve quality gets worse as time goes on. if part stores were selling whole cars, then the quality wouldnt slide. but instead they are selling only parts- all parts are a "kit," in need of modification and your own "quality control"

7. soak it in carb cleaner

8. atmospheric balance tube. as the gas leaves the bowl, you would draw a vacuum without it, and the gas would not flow to the engine.

9. my carbs took 155, but your might be different. if AC.net thought you owned Kadrons, you might not have the right jets. tuning is done with carbs on the engine. decide what your jet needs are at that point.

10. you cant remove it. cleans by soaking

11. if you cant remove it, then clean by soaking without removal

12. soak them clean

13. balance tube. you cannot run power brake boosters effectively off of a tee in the balance tube. i tried it.

no idea what PDSIT stands for, and you dont need to know.

14. the third arm is laying there in the upper right corner of the pic. doesnt look like my linkage, but then again my carbs were made for type 1

[Blaubus]

oops

[BellePlaine]

Thanks Dan for the answers; I'll put down the green scrubby. I just checked the ports between the throttle and the manifold and they match up perfectly, I haven't checked the manifold to the head yet.

Now, regarding the balance tube running between the manifolds for the brake booster, what kind of nipple do I need to replace those plugs? I didn't see anything listed at any of the vendors.

Also, I don't understand how to set my float. Could someone please hold my hand on this procedure and explain it to my in layman's terms? My kit didn't come with a ruler. Ratwell says, "Float level - it should be 12-14mm from the top of the lower body. I could not find any combination of shims under the float valve that would lower the float level from 16-17mm." Is he talking about the volume of gas in the bowl or the volume of air above the float. The ways it's written it's confusing to me. Thanks.
_________________
'75 Riviera

Whether you are a novice or know your way around an ACVW, a day with Amskeptic is money well spent. My mechanical ability/knowledge/bus is always better after Colin visits.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/memberlist.php

[BellePlaine]

My bowl holds about 40 mls of gas before the float is horizontal. I don't know if that is good or bad but I'm going to go with it.
_________________
'75 Riviera

Whether you are a novice or know your way around an ACVW, a day with Amskeptic is money well spent. My mechanical ability/knowledge/bus is always better after Colin visits.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/memberlist.php

[busdaddy]

The 12 to 14 mm is measured from the top edge of the bowl down to the top of the gas in the bowl. You have to assemble the carb and feed gas into it (small tank, gravity feed) until the float shuts the needle and seat and won't let anymore in, then remove the top and measure how high the tide is. If it's low use a thinner washer between the needle and seat and the top of the carb, too high use a thicker one.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[BellePlaine]

Thanks for the explanation busdaddy. I'm still monkeying with the float but I should have it sorted out tonight as long as I can get some uninterrupted time to work on it.

However, I have another problem which I need address and could use some advice. I don't think that I have all of the pieces that I need to attach the throttle cable to the linkage pivot. Below are pix of my set up and some extra parts that I came with my used carbs.

I think what I need to do is to take that middle piece in the last pic and attached it to the pivot arm with another ball socket (which I don't have). Then I need to somehow attach the middle piece to the throttle cable. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
_________________
'75 Riviera

Whether you are a novice or know your way around an ACVW, a day with Amskeptic is money well spent. My mechanical ability/knowledge/bus is always better after Colin visits.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/memberlist.php

[BellePlaine]

I contacted ac.net, lowbudget, and Top Line Parts looking for someone to supply me with the parts I need to make this linkage work and while they all were very nice and quick to reply none of them could help me.

So here's my solution; I've taken a barrel nut from my progressive and screwed it onto the pivot arm. We'll see...

_________________
'75 Riviera

Whether you are a novice or know your way around an ACVW, a day with Amskeptic is money well spent. My mechanical ability/knowledge/bus is always better after Colin visits.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/memberlist.php

[BellePlaine]

Well, good news, kinda. I replaced my worn-out, gummed up Progressive with the Brosols after sorting out the linkage. And she starts but doesn't want to keep running. It's like after the squirt of gas provided by the accelerator pump is burned off, it dies. I can feather the gas pedal to keep it running but there is obviously a problem. I did notice a flash of fire shoot from one of the barrels while I was trying to keep it running. That's when I decided to call it a night! I'm going to dig into a search but would welcome any specific suggestions.

I know that I have a few issues still to sort out which may be contributing to my problems. My head to manifold gaskets are bad. I tried using the spacers that came with my kit but the bolts coming from the head are too short. I might have to replace them with longer ones or either make or buy new gaskets.

Also, I'm currently running a 009 so I *temporarily* patched the vac ports with duct tape until I can find a suitable replacement.

My engine is a T4.
_________________
'75 Riviera

Whether you are a novice or know your way around an ACVW, a day with Amskeptic is money well spent. My mechanical ability/knowledge/bus is always better after Colin visits.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/memberlist.php

[HPjunkie]

Great thread with good Info! I am just starting this same thing.

[alfa2000]

i have the same Carb , anyone tell me the tuning procedure for this dual carb

[Stuartzickefoose]

[jeffsbugs]

Not sure if this will help if your carbs aren't pdsit like mine but it's worth a read.

http://www.ratwell.com/technical/DualCarbs.html

Jeff
_________________
'73 Westfalia, rebuilt 1700, dual OG solex - 3500 miles and counting
'62 Baja

[Stuartzickefoose]

i did read through that, and will be trying it asap. its gonna be a long process i guess...
_________________
Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

[alfa2000]

guys , looking for ur help i have the same type of carb PDSI , my idle fuel cut off valve is stop working , i need to buy a new one but cant find the correct part number or location to buy from

There is a number stamped on the valve which is 52.5 , any one help me by puting URL for the correct idle cut off valve for this carb

Thanks

[busdaddy]

[skills@eurocarsplus]

busdaddy....some of the shut off valves are also used for metering purposes. seeing his has a stamp with a number on it, i am going to guess his does.

don't go snipping anything yet. can you post a photo? i have tons of carb shit (but never the right stuff when i need it ) i can see if what i have may help you
_________________