Long coolant hose alternative?

[vr2jetta]

Is there a cheaper alternative to replacing the coolant hoses from the front to the rear of a vanagon? I have an 84' and I am sick of patching them up just to have them blow in a different spot next week. I was thinking of going to the hardware store and seeing what they have. I just dont have the $300+ to replace them with the stainless units but I do have a insane drive to make things myself. I was thinking of copper but I am not sure how much that would cost either. PVC may work for a short time until they get brittle and break themselves, so I am counting them out. Steel would probably work but getting the bends in the lines would be a chore, even though I could cut and weld the bends I would need. Are there any other budget friendly options out there? Has anybody done this and had much success? Thanks!

[240Gordy]

marine coolant and exhaust hose. should be readily available in Florida.

mine have been fine (engine bay hoses, much more convoluted)
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Tencentlife said,
"So, now that you know what you're doing, go to town."
2010 GOLF TRENDLINE 2.5
1985 GL now with more! a 2.1L
H&R SPORT(RED) Springs FRONT , SLAM SPECIALTIES RE6 AIRBAGS REAR

[danfromsyr]

I found that chain link fence "top rail" is darn nearly the same size.

but it does not have rolled retainig lips on the ends. so you'll require some form of clamp to assure they do not loosen/slip off under heat & pressure.

I've had to just check (and adjust) mine each spring.

I still have the OEM metal lines over the gas tank, but DIY fence pipe from midship back.

I believe that Terry Key sells a 'back half' kit that may be of service to you. mine were far from a easy slip in and forget kind of job... although mine were free (brother had bent fencing from a tree incident).

Best of luck

Dan in NY
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[vr2jetta]

[goffoz]

[syncrodoka]

I'd hate to see the radiator after the galvanize plating starts to peel off. All of the fences that I have seen had a really thick and poor quality galv dip.

[danfromsyr]

the home center stuff inside isn't galv plated, it's just bare metal.

little inside to flake. but i've had the system open a few times and seen no bother.

for the bends.. it's not a straight run. you have to bend it some..
do that carefully, it is thin, it will kink if pushed too much and it can be welded together.. I used some of the toprail couplers, or the slip in joints. certainly not perfect, but the solution for this DIY handman.

Dan in NY
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[goffoz]

[Vsyevolod]

My brother did this to his '91 Syncro. He used PVC designed for high temperature and replaced the entire hose system for the coolant. He retained the bits of hose that formed the curves and used the PVC for all the straight bits. Hose clamps where ever there was a connection to be made. That was about 12 years ago that he did that. Still running today.

Stephen






.

[tencentlife]

Just FYI on the plastics, PVC and ABS may not be suitable for this app. PVC loses stability at about 140F, ABS at 160. Those are the rated temps, so sources claim they will work higher.

CPVC can handle the temps (good to 220F if I remember right, anyway it's intended for hot water service), but it can be way expensive and hard to find in larger sizes.

Cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) would be the better choice in a plastic pipe, it's not too expensive and intended for hot service, although not as hot as CPVC. 180-200F is generally considered safe, so it's at least within the range for automotive coolant.

I would go with the reinforced marine hose if I were contemplating this, it could be installed in one piece, eliminating at least four junctures. Just needs to be supported along the way.
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[j_dirge]

[j_dirge]

[aquaboxa]

Marine hose might just work...

[Bruce Wayne]

I used "bulk" coolant hose from the FLAPS when I replaced mine two years ago. it was easy to install,the price was right and I have had no issuse at all with it.

[tclark]

[j_dirge]

[crazyvwvanman]

Get the stuff with the wire reinforcement inside. Shieldsflex II or one of the others, making sure NOT to get the heavy ribbed outer wall kind.

I have been using it for a few years to replace the long pipes.

It is only $56 for 12.5' at the same place you linked to before.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/sh...haust+Hose

Mark

[Terry Kay]

<<One reason I'd prefer even the more expensive wire reinforced exhaust hose over SS is the better resistance to vibration... I'm not an engineer, but those long runs of SS pipe seem prone to vibration energy trasnfer.
puttng additional strain on hangers, and fittings at either end, etc..if not the early failure of the SS pipes themselves.>>

I'll tell ya what--

I'd really be interested in seeing 0.65 wall stainless fracture-anywhere from harmonic vibration--suspended in rubber hose on both ends.

It that was the case the mild steel tubing in any 83.5 to late 85 Vanagon would have never made it around the block from the showroom.

This isn't even worth considering.

<<My Vanagon hoses have lasted some 20 yrs.. seems the proper marine hose would be good at least that long?>>

Sure, and insulate the coolant some more that's runnng under the
van.
Good Idea.

You'll lose any possibility of radiating any heat out of the system by running it inside some thick walled hose.

The operating temps do drop a bit using the stainless pipes.
The free air running over the pipes under the Van does drop the coolant temps.

This has been documented here several times over the years.


What I wanna see is you shoe horn the thick walled marine exhaust hose throught the crossmember in the middle of the Van that also holds the front heater hose.

It ain't all gonna fit at once.

I know--run the marine hose under the crossmemeber & the gas tank--
Rip the heater hose out of the crossmemeber & run the coolant hose in through the crossmember--and forget about running the front heater.

Another good idea.

Don't do the job right--cob it--
It'll all get up front one way or another--I know.

To save a couple of bucks, you guys sure know how to take the long way around the block.

Thin walled Fence Post--

Now I've heard it all.

Another fine way to kill a day--

And all's ya need is you elecrically adept buddy with his conduit bender to form the pipe---

HEY--there's an idea--

Get your buudy that has the conduit bender to make a set of coolant pipes outa thin walled electrical servive tubing!

In Florida ( place this thread was generated ) the salt air should have these rusted out in about a month--
Driving on Daytona Beach they should be gone in about a two weeks.---

Another great space age technology, ultra low buck, coolant pipe solution!!
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T.K.

[kirsplat]

I used marine grade 3/4" hose when I ran my stainless pipes and it worked great, and did fit nicely in between the crossmember.

I used 5/8" to 3/4" adapters to tie in to the stock hose.

I have about 70 feet left over if anyone is interested. Located in Seattle. pm me.

Chris
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86 Syncro|EJ253|Carat

[Bruce Wayne]