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johan_l
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RareAir
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Joined: May 11, 2002
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Location: 18 miles North of the border
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 Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 10:31 am Post subject: |
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Try drilling out the shank of the bolt, start with a small bit (1/8") and incrementally use a larger bit until you reach nearly the same diameter as the shank (I think it's a 12mm) Then use heat from a torch on the pan head area. Finally use an "E-Z out" tool to extract the remaining bolt shank. You can chase the pan head threads with a tap die to clean it all up
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johnshenry
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Joined: September 21, 2001
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Location: Northwood, NH USA
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| Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 3:18 pm Post subject: |
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I can't imagine that they can't come out with those welded on nuts. Use plenty of penetrating oil over several days, and head the shank where it enters the heat afterwards, but let it cool before trying to get them out.
Do not use an air impact wrench, but a large breaker bar, and slow torque. See the "Tool Techniques" article at my site thebugshop.org. It takes penetrating oil, torque and heat to win with those. No one thing alone will work...
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John Henry
'57 Deluxe
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petrol punk
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Joined: August 21, 2007
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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| Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 3:49 pm Post subject: |
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I'd try welding the nut on there, worst that happens the nut breaks off. Then you just weld 2 nuts on and go at it again. 
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36hp '56 European DeLuxe oval
'70 bug 1835cc |
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drscope
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Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 15273
Location: Baltimore, Maryland USA
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| Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 6:55 pm Post subject: |
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Follow John Henry's advice. If you have to drill them, you might try drilling from the rear. Who knows if you get luckey, the drill might grab and turn the piece out.
Worst case would be to cut the threaded tube out of the frame head and weld in a new one. Not much of a problem if you use the beam to make sure you get them in the right place.
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Mother Nature is a Mean Evil Bitch! |
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DDub
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Joined: January 06, 2005
Posts: 318
Location: central pa.
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| Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 10:11 pm Post subject: |
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| Do as has been suggested, drill small and keep geting bigger. I then use a Dremel with an 1/8 inch carbide endmill and purposely cut to the one side of the hole until I see threads. Then take a punch and collapse the sides of the bolt inward to loosen it. It will come out without ruining the female threads. Wear eye protection!! |
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johan_l
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Joined: March 14, 2004
Posts: 533
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| Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2009 11:26 pm Post subject: |
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| johnshenry wrote: |
I can't imagine that they can't come out with those welded on nuts. Use plenty of penetrating oil over several days, and head the shank where it enters the heat afterwards, but let it cool before trying to get them out.
Do not use an air impact wrench, but a large breaker bar, and slow torque. See the "Tool Techniques" article at my site thebugshop.org. It takes penetrating oil, torque and heat to win with those. No one thing alone will work... |
Just read your article, was wery good. I'll try these techniques next friday, have to buy a torch also.
When I started using the impact wrench just a few month ago, all bolts have unscrewed very nicely, but I'll try the heat and breaker bar. But I guess I have to be gentle, because my prior experiense have been that the breaker bar will snap those bolts of while the impact will not break them that easy... Maybe I just was to impatient and applied to much torqe...
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1960 Karmann-Ghia coupé
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johnshenry
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Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9413
Location: Northwood, NH USA
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| Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 7:34 am Post subject: |
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| johan_l wrote: |
| johnshenry wrote: |
I can't imagine that they can't come out with those welded on nuts. Use plenty of penetrating oil over several days, and head the shank where it enters the heat afterwards, but let it cool before trying to get them out.
Do not use an air impact wrench, but a large breaker bar, and slow torque. See the "Tool Techniques" article at my site thebugshop.org. It takes penetrating oil, torque and heat to win with those. No one thing alone will work... |
Just read your article, was wery good. I'll try these techniques next friday, have to buy a torch also.
When I started using the impact wrench just a few month ago, all bolts have unscrewed very nicely, but I'll try the heat and breaker bar. But I guess I have to be gentle, because my prior experiense have been that the breaker bar will snap those bolts of while the impact will not break them that easy... Maybe I just was to impatient and applied to much torqe... |
Remember the oiling trick. If you get it to unscrew 1/4 turn, screw it back in 1/4 turn, then out. Go a little farther each time, out, then in, then back out.
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John Henry
'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab |
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splitjunkie
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Joined: April 04, 2006
Posts: 4213
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| Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 10:37 am Post subject: |
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| johnshenry wrote: |
| Go a little farther each time, out, then in, then back out. |
Hey, Keep it clean. This is a family place. 
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Chris
You know, a lot of these scratches will buff right out... Jerry Seinfeld |
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johnshenry
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Joined: September 21, 2001
Posts: 9413
Location: Northwood, NH USA
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| Posted: Sun Sep 13, 2009 4:43 pm Post subject: |
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| splitjunkie wrote: |
| johnshenry wrote: |
| Go a little farther each time, out, then in, then back out. |
Hey, Keep it clean. This is a family place. |
Sick mind..... 
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John Henry
'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab |
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johan_l
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johnshenry
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Joined: September 21, 2001
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Location: Northwood, NH USA
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| Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 12:17 pm Post subject: |
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Looks good. Did you bolt up a front beam before welding the new ones in to make sure the position was correct?
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John Henry
'57 Deluxe
'56 Single Cab |
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Ninamashr
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Joined: October 12, 2005
Posts: 1400
Location: City of Round Rock in the Great State of Texas
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| Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 12:35 pm Post subject: |
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| johnshenry wrote: |
| Looks good. Did you bolt up a front beam before welding the new ones in to make sure the position was correct? |
That would have helped keep the splatter out of the threads to.
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johan_l
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Joined: March 14, 2004
Posts: 533
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| Posted: Fri Sep 18, 2009 11:54 pm Post subject: |
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| johnshenry wrote: |
| Looks good. Did you bolt up a front beam before welding the new ones in to make sure the position was correct? |
thought of it, but had no bolts at hand. Was a rather tight fit and I think the bolts are not what aligns the beam so I hope it is ok. We'll see...
I have a somewhat pushed timeplan to get this done, as I don't have space in the garage for everything. Body needs to be on pan before the winter gets here...
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Johan, Sweden
1960 Karmann-Ghia coupé
1957 Oval window
Bastard Split window <-- Translate |
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