Critique my current 1776 build

[mulewright]

Here are the parts I have:
69mm CW Crank
Case already bored for 90.5/92 P&C's w 1.5 qt sump full flowed and stock cooling
040 Heads with 40X35.5 valves dual springs also already bored for 90.5's
Dual Weber 40 IDFs
Bosch 009 with pertronics
regulated fuel pump
rebuilt stock rods
Bugpack 1-1/2 dual quiet pack Header exhaust (j tubes)
I have stock rockers but not tied to them

This is going into my DD bug with wide wheels and fiberglass fenders. I am going with the 90.5's only so please don't suggest bigger P&Cs. I will eventually get the heads port and polished but don't have the money today. What Cam/Rocker suggestions do you guys have? Also any Ideas what the hp guess is?

[Glenn]

Personally I wouldn't have dual valve springs on a 1776 unless I want it to rev past 6000rpm.

I'd say get a FK-7 with CB 1.25 rockers and dump the OO9 for a 019.
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[mulewright]

I agree on the dual springs but the heads already had them. The engine came in a find I had. I have inspected these heads closely and they were run but it couldn't have been long. It appears the guy had bolt on covers and they came loose and the rockers started beating the retainer. I replaced the valve even though it seemed straight.

So if I went with the 019 it would bite into the rocker money. I was thinking engle 120.

[mulewright]

oh forgot. I am thinking of keeping compression close to 8:1. I am in the mountains of PA and think the gas is iffy at times.

[vwracerdave]

Engle W-110 cam with stock rockers and solid shafts.

And you will be fine with the 009.
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[SRP1]

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[mulewright]

Well, I see that the consensus is not to go with the 120 but as I figured would eventually lead to ratios and porting. I think that I shall go with the 110 now and when I decide to port and polish the heads then I'll change to ratios. I am currently spending money on my short block to have a good foundation for the future. It wouldn't be beyond me to turbo later.
Is there a good link here for hand porting the heads. It wouldn't be my first dance with doing it but I have not been in the aircooled world for a while. I used to have to maintain a fleet of industrial vw's.

So, is it still better to go with the 019 distributor with the Weber 40's?

[sturgeongeneral]

Change the dual springs. They will just cause excessive wear and early failure. Loose the 009. I would say about 90 hp.
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[jfats808]

After you make this build, you will want more performance. 1.25 rockers, 120 cam, 8.5 imo( unless you really plan on going turbo stay low), and save a little more for p&p. I think you will be very happy with a combo like this. I like the fk7 opinion Glenn suggested. I consider this still pretty conservative. Good luck and most of all have fun. -Jon
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[robert olmsted]

I am enjoying my FK7 W/ 1.4: 1 rockers in a 1776, P&P, dual 42DCNF. 010 Dist. It has very nice torque in the lower rpm range which is great for the street. 15.6 in the quarter. I have never run a 110 so I cant offer a comparison.

I hope this helps and best of luck!!

[craigman]

009 will be just fine.

[JSMskater]

the 009 sucks guys. You'd be a sucker to buy one over the better options out there.
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[vwracerdave]

Build what you want the first time. Upgrading in stages is a foolish waste of money. When you upgrade later all you ever end up with is a mismatch of 1/2 wore out parts and 1/2 new parts.
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1997 Sportsman ET Champion - Thunder Valley Raceway Park - Noble ,OK

[mulewright]

agreed it is always best to build for the first tiime, I am not one to make alot of changes once I have a good performing engine. Once I get an engine to run well I beleive more enjoyment comes from tuning, suspension and brakes. The car currently has a good 1600sp that I like too. I am not trying to outbuild my trans though. I have the parts and the sp is due rebuild so since I had the parts figured I'd build the 1776 while driving the 1600sp.

I don't mind the 009 but do see benefit of vacuum advance.

I found in my shop what appears to be an old C35 cam. Any opinions on this one. I will have to profile it since the only stampings that I can find are 5088 on the end.

[SRP1]

The C35 would make an excellent choice in place of the W-110.
My only concern is you said the C35 you found is an "old" cam.
Do you mean "old as in used? If so do you have the matching lifters that where run on that cam, and are the lifters marked as to which lobes they ran on?
If not buy a new cam and set of lifters.

Here are the spec's I have on the C35:
C35 286º 247º 0.410" 108º Street and off-road; good power spread; 6000rpm

[WVbugman]

I'm running a combination simular to what you are building, so here's my 2 cents.
My combination is a 1776, 110 cam, 044 heads, 40 x 35 valves, single hd valve springs, standard ratio rockers, 8.0 to 1 compression, dual 40 idfs, 1 1/2" j tubes, merged header into a single quiet pack.
I too live in the mountains. People not driving around in them don't deal with the disappointment of running out of torque on an uphill pull and having to downshift. For me to have a much larger cam I'd want a larger motor and more compression.
You'll also want to be able to rev all your camshaft will allow, so you'll need to at least have your heads match ported for your carbs and exhaust. You'll also want 30mm or larger vents in your carbs.

[Rome]

So he can use single HD springs on his heads which are machined for dual springs?

Single springs with the C35 cam will also allow lighter weight HD aluminum pushrods like the ones sold by aircooled.net. Revving to nearly 6G will require upgraded rocker shafts, or at least the spacer kit to be used with the stock shafts (also sold by aircooled.net and others). ONce you go to Engle 120 cam and beyond, you usually must also make the transition to dual springs, and therefore HD steel pushrods.

Do you know what size venturies are in your IDFs? That will influence your performance alot, and should be picked according to your 40mm intake valve size. My suggestion is to go no larger than 32mm venturie diameter.

[Glenn]

[Rome]

But the outer diameter does not change; that is, the OD of the dual spring is the same as the OD of a single spring. And the small lip cast around the base of the spring land in the head provides the retention for the base of the spring all around its circumference so that it doesn't move around... Seems like it should work, but maybe somebody here knows who has run such a setup.