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CB Performance Quick Tune EFI, turbo, troubleshooting
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Wirenuts
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 5:26 am    Post subject: CB Performance Quick Tune EFI, turbo, troubleshooting Reply with quote

Is it me or is there NO FORUM to talk about Setting up and Troubleshooting issues with the Cb PErformance Quicktune EFI, turbo kit.

I bought this Kit, slaved all week to put it in, so I could mess with it on the weekend.

1. Cb performance is closed on the weekends, the days most of us have time off....
2. The computer tunes itself......BULLSHIT!
3. Can't even drive the F......k...n car in closed loop...backfiring....leaning out to like18
4. You need a battery, jumper pack.... if the computer or coils doesn't see a SOLID 11.? VOLTS
Good luck starting....lol

TO top it off, I can't find any place on line to share and talk about troubleshooting issues....
WTF...

These are things to thing about if you purchase this system....
I will post my experience with the system and with CB Performance, on all the sites and my website....

Anyone have anything to contribute...
I am Green at EFI, I'm not dumb, and am learning very quick......
Any help, you share would help me and others Laughing
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1432
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 5:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

most fuel delivery issues with new EFI setups are caused by little or no fuel filter capacity, if you haven't added a good sized filter between tank and pump I recommend you do, not one of those little plastic or tin things but a purpose built unit with some area size to it, this may not be the cause of your current problem but if left unaddressed it will be. while you are at it check the screen in your inlet side of the pump for trash.
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miniman82
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If I remember correctly, CB has different 'base tunes' you can put into the ECU for different engine combos. And yes, you need a good battery or you'll be chasing your tail. If everything else fails, they can do an online session to try and diagnose the problem. Also, try STF.
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Wirenuts
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys,

My turbo set up was running fine with the old 4 knob system. I put the new computer on a working engine.

I hear you minimann, your mega squirt set up is awesome, I thought my crap would just be bolt on and GO>

BULLSHIT,,,, I was going to put a propane gun to the head temp sensor to bring it up to 150 degrees.... Supposeably the computer wont start adjusting till you reach a buck 50

I used 5W 30 oil to bring my engine temps down and now i'm stuck with this...lol

Anyhow all else fails, I will have to be CB's bitch and wait till monday to get the 1 man in all america to look at my computer....Kinda feels like a scam dont it///// LOL
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smithers
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What is your fuel preassure. You will need a bit of tuning to set it up, but the system really does work well. I assuming that you are using a PLX gauge?
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Wirenuts
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pressure @ idle is 45,,,with the old cb 4 knob system.
and Flucuates between 40 and 60-65 depending on the vacuum or boost....

I am using the PLX air fuel ratio Wide band O2
Their Magna Spark adjustable timing and Distributor

2000 cc
T2 Switzer turbo
EFI
PLX
Magnaspark....
dual throttle body

www.vwbug.webs.com picture of the engine....
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Wirenuts
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 9:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

With the Old 4 knob system, I would Richen the shit out of the Idle A/F and the car would start on the first turn of the key....


One thing I do notice about this system compared to my old system is that the engine is alot quieter for some reason..... Not sure if its the spark or the mear reason I'm hitting 16 on my A/F....lean


How can I richen the shit out of the car so it can warm up or allow me to drive it so I can get it above 150 deg....?
ran it for 3 hours and only hit 100 deg.

Do I adjust the amount the injectors spray in the VE cells?
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Steve Arndt
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wirenuts wrote:


How can I ..... get it above 150 deg....?
ran it for 3 hours and only hit 100 deg.



How about telling us where you have the sensor installed?
Lots of people install the "coolant temp sensor" under the head so that hot air from the heads blows over the sensor. Don't install the sensor in the metal casting, expose it to the hot air coming off the heads. You can try this. Tom H. came up with this idea back in the 1990s.

Steve
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jamestwo
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 1:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

An exhaust leak will render a wideband o2 worthless, and usually make it read lean.

Might double check make sure you have no exhaust leaks around the heads.
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Wirenuts
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Head temp sensor is located on the driver side head, drilled in to the side, by the front, behind the valve cover....

Its reading correct, My oil hits 180 Deg and the head is 114 deg
verified with a laser temp sensor from work

No exhaust leaks.

HUM
I need to learn how to tune a fuel injection computer......Fuel curves....

Gonna do this,
supposably, the computer wont start learning until you hit 150, the stupid sensor is a resistor that changes value as it gets hotter.
Why not put a variable resistor and watch the heat go up on the computer...then cruise the junk up and down the street with hopes the "computer tunes itself"


I will post my findings
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jamestwo
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Head temps have got to be higher than 114. you must not be able to get it to run very long.

BTW, you variable resister idea sounds good.

Even though you don't have a megasquirt, you might want to look at the megamanual to see how the temp sensors work., so you will know what resistance you need.

Good luck , you will figure it out.
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Paganothj
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate to be the bearer of bad new but CB is close on Mondays. You'll have to wait till Tuesday. I learned that when I had an issue with one of their forged cranks.
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Wirenuts
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy Sh....t doesn't surprise me anymore.

One thing is for sure, sitting hear trying to figure out how I could tune my expensive box with wire on it thinking,,,,boy oh boy, All I have to do is "HOOK" it up and it tunes itself...WOW.... BS

There's no instruction manual for the software, No Forum, NO NOTHING.... I'm on the Mega Squirt website looking up what VE, EGO
abbreviation's mean...lol
Needless to say, I'm learning way more from Megasquirt and I'm starting to wish I would have just went with them. Less drama, You learn the system, you learn EFI......

Owell, I suppose I will wait till Tuesday. So much for ripping the shit out my knuckles trying to put spark plug wires on #1 cylinder before the weekend got hear.


It tunes itself......... Mad
Aside from all this drama, LIFE IS GREAT and wish everyone, everyone, including the people at Cb a good weekend/summer etc.
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miniman82
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 24, 2010 8:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man, I just got your voicemail! AT&T is pretty lame when it comes to getting messages on time, I tell ya. Rolling Eyes I'll try to give you a call later on Sunday, to see if I can't help you sort this out.
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Wirenuts
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 6:18 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cool thanks Minimann, You are the shizzo my nizzo....
Minimann is a wealth of information>

realizing how much my CLT "Coolant temp sensor" plays a role in getting my crap box running. I did some reading,,,,,

NOTE, non of this stuff is on the CB site.

Got this from MegaSquit
Temperature Sensors

MegaSquirt uses coolant and air temperature sensors to determine the warm-up characteristics of the engine and the density of the intake air. They are essential to proper functioning of a MegaSquirt® controller. Both sensors are Negative Temperature Coefficient (NTC) thermistors. This means that they are resistors whose resistance decreases as their temperature goes up.

Before electronic fuel injection, the temperature sensors were used mostly to drive gauges or 'idiot lights', rather than control the engine. In addition, these gauges were highly damped, and electrical noise in the signal was not a problem. As a result, many non-EFI vehicles have 'one-wire' temperature sensors, and ground the sensor through the engine block. However, when EFI came along (in the mid 1980s) temperature sensors were used to determine the instantaneous fuelling and spark advance in some cases, and reducing noise became essential. The manufacturer's solution was 'two-wires' sensors that use a dedicated ground return to the ECU (instead of the much more noisy high current ground). MegaSquirt® controllers adopt a similar scheme. DB37 pin #19 is used for the sensor ground, and the IAT, CLT and TPS ground wires should be run to it (or the labeled spots ('ret') on the relay board that connects to pin #19). In addition, if you are using a VR trigger, you should bring the VR ground back to the MegaSquirt® controller (pin #2 or pin #7 - pin #2 will be a dedicated ground for the VR circuit in future revisions, pin #7 is a general ground, as is #2 on V2.2 and V3.0 main boards).

Naturally aspirated engines using MegaSquirt® can use the same sensors for coolant and air temperature. These sensorsare inexpensive (roughly $18 US) GM units readily available from any parts store (GM part number 12146312, may have been replaced by #15326386). They have a 3/4" hex.




http://www.megamanual.com/v22manual/mwire.htm#ego
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bugninva
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 6:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

most of the information you are looking for, and claiming cb doesn't have, is in the manuals and the online manuals...

scroll to the bottom here and you can get it all... I have printed manuals that came with mine...
http://cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1665
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Wirenuts
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 7:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bugniva, sounds cool. But I still have issues with them. (Please read below)

Question, How familiar are you with adjusting injector pulse widths to richen or lean out spots... or how clear is it in the manual on how to do this.?
You mind helping me configure my Tune?

I got 2 color copies,

1.) Was the installation copy on how to put together the throttle bodies and install sensors on the engine block

2.) The software copy, Tells you briefly, VERY briefly how to do 1 or 2 things. Falls short and doesn't explain what EGO, VE, CHT, CLT or any of these abbreviations mean. It's meant to have little of no information and keeps us all dumb. What this Acomplishes, is that WE need to call CB and talk to Pat...Because he is Jesus Christ of my computer in my car. Otherwise, NO 1 knows nothing about dumbing $1400 bucks into something with VERY little information on it...

Thats fine and dandy if you want to deal with only 1 person that is capable of working on your system in all AMERICA. And he is busy all the time. You know that feeling you get when you call the phone company and some cat in India picks up the phone.....lol Same stuff

God forbid, the dude says F it. He wins the lotto and moves to France, or God forbid,,,,health issues, you never know.....
Your stuck with an expensive box with wires that you know nothing about.....

I'm not trying to be and A hole, Just posting "MY" experience with this QUICK TUNE EFI from Cb performance. If you were a CEO of a company like CB, you better know how people in the front lines that use your stuff are reacting to your product. I slaved and worked HARD to make the money to purchase this thing and I WILL do my PART to SHARE ALL OF MY Experiences with the system..... GOOD or BAD....
Unbiased review

IF in the end, the system makes my engine scream.... YOU WILL KNOW.
If in the end, I end I get blown off and left with a pcs of SH...T... YOU WILL KNOW...

Stay tuned, my peoples.
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kadub
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 9:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Leave the belt off for a little bit. No matter where you mounted your temp sensor it should get above 150 relatively quickly. I still am amazed that it ran long enough to get the oil up to 180, but the head was still 114. Something is up with your sensor location...Pics?
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MinamiKotaro
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 11:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It sounds like your temp sensor flat out doesn't work.
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Wirenuts
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 25, 2010 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I unplugged it and the temp gauge fell to -35, plug it back in and it starts reading.

I have a fluke infrared temp gun and I compared the head temp with the computer and there both dead on.


Here is a picture of the location of the head temp sensor.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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