| Author |
Message |
&Dan Samba Member

Joined: January 29, 2008 Posts: 1787
|
Posted: Mon May 10, 2010 7:54 pm Post subject: Shift Rods Absolutely Refuse To Part. |
|
|
Gnnnnngh. Patience....perseverance....
Two qualities I'm having trouble keeping in reserve.
Here's the situation: '65 Bus, trans is out, shifter plate and shifter out, coupler cut off, the front and rear tube refuse to let go of each other.
It's as if they are swaged together.
I have subjected the joint, which is not explicitly rusty, to at least 50 heat/quench cycles, with a dousing of PB Blaster and an acetone/ATF mixture every 3rd or 4th cycle. It has been soaking in penetrant for nigh onto a week.
I've read every single post on the subject here, having thoroughly searched the topic, and tried every suggestion. I went in knowing what to expect and behaved accordingly. Connector gave me a hassle, I split it with a Dremel, out it came, no problem.
I have not yet become savage with the thing for fear of crushing the front rod, though it does now bear some Vise-Grip marks [well away from the joint] and I do NOT want to cut the rod. That's not an option; I do not want to wreck it. I feel bad enough about the connector, truth be told.
Twisting hasn't made it yield at all; the joint is SOLID. No movement at all. None!
Ummm.....halp?
Gracias. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
type241 Samba Member

Joined: June 02, 2006 Posts: 1015 Location: MOSES LAKE, WA
|
Posted: Mon May 10, 2010 8:05 pm Post subject: Cut it |
|
|
Just cut it. Shift rods are not that expensive. Welder? You have around $1,000 into now with your labor. You could be driving by now.
I ONCE spent 3 weeks on an axle nut. Guess what not anymore.
The joys of getting to know your bus. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Emeritusx Samba Member

Joined: June 20, 2008 Posts: 2775 Location: 12 inches behind the wheel
|
Posted: Mon May 10, 2010 8:12 pm Post subject: |
|
|
At least the connector is only 8 bucks... Damn, I was about to attempt the same thing, my bushings are all beat. It took three weeks to get a nut off just not too long ago... Try heating the front and hit the rear with co² (freeze) (canned duster spray)... I do know the joy you feel when you finally get it to move. _________________ 82 Westy ☢, 66 Splitty ☮, 73 Type 181 ✠ |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
&Dan Samba Member

Joined: January 29, 2008 Posts: 1787
|
Posted: Mon May 10, 2010 8:45 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Emeritusx wrote: |
| At least the connector is only 8 bucks... Damn, I was about to attempt the same thing, my bushings are all beat. It took three weeks to get a nut off just not too long ago... Try heating the front and hit the rear with co² (freeze) (canned duster spray)... I do know the joy you feel when you finally get it to move. |
That's worth a try.
See, that's the thing: I'm trying very hard to salvage as much of the Bus as I can, knowing the creeping decimalism that buying new parts represents.
One can always replace things, yes, but the whole point for me, for us, is to keep what's there, to conserve, and not hasten the demise of of things that are not broken.
I break them, it's then my fault for not having enough snap to suss out a way to not break them in the first place.
Breaking parts in the commission of repair is Sisyphean, it's shoveling sand against the tide. Or it is in my own little worldview.
I honestly don't know how my Pop managed to stay sane throughout a 50-year career as a mechanic. No wonder he was so crabby all the time. And so dead-set against any of us doing likewise. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
sventinker Samba Member

Joined: June 10, 2009 Posts: 1481 Location: the sandbox
|
Posted: Mon May 10, 2010 8:59 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| Dan&Dan wrote: |
| Emeritusx wrote: |
| At least the connector is only 8 bucks... Damn, I was about to attempt the same thing, my bushings are all beat. It took three weeks to get a nut off just not too long ago... Try heating the front and hit the rear with co² (freeze) (canned duster spray)... I do know the joy you feel when you finally get it to move. |
That's worth a try.
See, that's the thing: I'm trying very hard to salvage as much of the Bus as I can, knowing the creeping decimalism that buying new parts represents.
One can always replace things, yes, but the whole point for me, for us, is to keep what's there, to conserve, and not hasten the demise of of things that are not broken.
I break them, it's then my fault for not having enough snap to suss out a way to not break them in the first place.
Breaking parts in the commission of repair is Sisyphean, it's shoveling sand against the tide. Or it is in my own little worldview.
I honestly don't know how my Pop managed to stay sane throughout a 50-year career as a mechanic. No wonder he was so crabby all the time. And so dead-set against any of us doing likewise. |
my head hurts...
I will be doing my bushings soon I wish not your fate. Good luck my friend I wish you well _________________ April 3rd 62 standard mgr/pw
374 North American equipment
Includes 6 popouts
025 Safety belts
195 Adjustable bench seat/backrest (until 1963)
| dawerks wrote: |
| Perfection only comes with delusion. |
http://www.oacdp.org/ |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
busdaddy Samba Member

Joined: February 12, 2004 Posts: 53181 Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
|
Posted: Mon May 10, 2010 9:21 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Sounds like you have one option left:
They work best in pairs for that job  _________________ Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.
Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!
Слава Україні! |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
iveedubbin Samba Member

Joined: August 31, 2003 Posts: 658 Location: San Diego
|
Posted: Mon May 10, 2010 9:31 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| I had the same issue on my 57 SC. I let the rod and connector sit on PB Blaster for a couple of weeks and NADA. I finally just cut the connector, replaced it with one from WW and VOILA. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Clara Samba Member

Joined: June 14, 2003 Posts: 12659
|
Posted: Mon May 10, 2010 9:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
The problem is that the repro are according to some, who I believe, not quite spot on repros.
When you do the heat/quench do you get it really friggin hot?
Hot enough that there is major sizzling and steam when you squirt it with the water bottle? Visualise volcanos.
I hate the repro couplers. I bought one and installed it on my red bus, and then called up to politely let the people at WW know the ID was too big and the thing was sloppy and his attitude is well, it worked? Ya, but for $22 I wanted something that fit RIGHT. I'd have sawed a section off a pipe if I knew their repro would fit like it did. crap parts. At least if they are $8 they are not as pricey, but it was BS.
Oh ya, it has been rusting for 40+ years, let it soak in penetrating oil longer. Patience, grasshopper.
Don't squash the tubes. Twisting is key, but don't squash the shift rods. _________________ The Obsolete Air-Cooled Documentation Project http://oacdp.org/ |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
&Dan Samba Member

Joined: January 29, 2008 Posts: 1787
|
Posted: Tue May 11, 2010 1:21 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Clara wrote: |
When you do the heat/quench do you get it really friggin hot?
Hot enough that there is major sizzling and steam when you squirt it with the water bottle? Visualise volcanos.
Oh ya, it has been rusting for 40+ years, let it soak in penetrating oil longer. Patience, grasshopper.
Don't squash the tubes. Twisting is key, but don't squash the shift rods. |
Big sizzling spattering action every time, Clara, per your instructions, read many times throughout my search of the topic.
Steaming and spitting. It makes sense this approach should work. Hot/cold shock over and over.
I'll try the extreme cold per Emeritusx's suggestion as well.
I really want to save the thing!
It may well be pipe wrench time....or maybe there's something else from a plumber's bag of tricks that might work....hmmmm.
And Sven, yep, you've got something to look forward to, but I bet yours goes a lot easier than ours. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
pyrOman Fire Master

Joined: July 21, 2003 Posts: 12569 Location: Over 2002 posts deleted!
|
Posted: Tue May 11, 2010 6:27 am Post subject: |
|
|
If you have to cut the rod, do so at an angle or slant like // , not straight across. That way it will go back together exactly as it should and there be no chance of splicing it out of position. BTDT! Good luck either way!  _________________ Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Nor_AL_67 Samba Member

Joined: December 18, 2007 Posts: 663 Location: Huntsville,Alabama
|
Posted: Tue May 11, 2010 6:47 am Post subject: |
|
|
After cutting the coupler out, I made a thin relief cut (on the front shift rod) from the hole to the end (about 1/2") long. Then used a small screw driver to pry the edges out. Removed and welded the cut up.
_________________ 63 Sedan
61 Rag
67 Type 1 Sedan
63 Type 2 Standard Walk-thru
69 Ghia
68 912
Amateur Versus Rusty Bus! |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
SkooobaSteve Samba Member

Joined: March 23, 2005 Posts: 3152 Location: Dothan Alabama
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
transportertalkman Samba Member

Joined: May 22, 2002 Posts: 319
|
Posted: Tue May 11, 2010 8:03 am Post subject: |
|
|
Cut it off - two slices 180 degrees out. Repros are no good. I have some NOS ones if you need it _________________ 1951 Belgium Standard
1957 Ghia coupe
1960 Double Cab
1963 Ghia convertible
1964 Westfalia SO34
1967 Riviera Camper |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
420GOAT Samba Member

Joined: March 31, 2006 Posts: 3342 Location: Wilmington, CA on a nice quiet street but still in the 'hood
|
Posted: Tue May 11, 2010 8:25 am Post subject: |
|
|
Why are you trying to take them apart? i just changed my shift bushing, new coupler, new rear bushing, both dust boots(front one i cut along the seam and zip tied it). i really saw no need to fight it if frozen. _________________ once you realize im not impressed we will get along just fine |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
splitpile Samba's Worst Speller

Joined: May 03, 2000 Posts: 5928 Location: back to living where hell meets the suface
|
Posted: Tue May 11, 2010 8:47 am Post subject: |
|
|
The later front shift rod couplers from most vendors are Genuine VW (there that same as on bays also) , the early ones are a repo.
I just cut the coupler in half and knock it off, put a couple relief cuts in the rear rod, spray with PB and manipulate it apart, as stated earlier in this thread. I have also welded the cut halves back together and reused it. _________________ Stocking distributor of "The Funky Green Panels"
www.BUSTORATION.com metal and more for your bus
"no more hacking my sig line" |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Clara Samba Member

Joined: June 14, 2003 Posts: 12659
|
Posted: Tue May 11, 2010 8:49 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Nor_AL_67 wrote: |
After cutting the coupler out, I made a thin relief cut (on the front shift rod) from the hole to the end (about 1/2") long. Then used a small screw driver to pry the edges out. Removed and welded the cut up.
|
That makes sense. Though I would soak it daily for another week.
Goat, I don't see how you really get those shift bushings in place w/ taking the linkage apart. _________________ The Obsolete Air-Cooled Documentation Project http://oacdp.org/ |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
SkooobaSteve Samba Member

Joined: March 23, 2005 Posts: 3152 Location: Dothan Alabama
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Stocknazi Samba Member

Joined: June 18, 2004 Posts: 5548
|
Posted: Tue May 11, 2010 9:45 am Post subject: |
|
|
if you don't want to burn your floor while heateing up the rod coupler, lay a super wet towel over the floor on the inside.
i made a small metal heat shield from a piece of stainless steel to keep the torch from burning the floor also.
iirc i had to break out the acytelene/ox torch last time i had a really rusty connector. if you don't have that mapp gas may work _________________ WANTED:
58 Westfalia cabinet knobs (3 needed), roof rack, and (7) privy tent poles (silver painted).
"When the people are afraid of the government, that's tyranny. But when the government is afraid of the people, that's liberty."
"The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants."
Thomas Jefferson |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
&Dan Samba Member

Joined: January 29, 2008 Posts: 1787
|
Posted: Tue May 11, 2010 10:04 am Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks very much for the advice, photos and comments, folks, we really appreciate it.
Believe me, I lay there a long time trying to dope out how to replace the bushings and boots without parting the rods- you must be some sort of magician, 420Goat!
What gets me is how little rust there is on the joint- the photos posted above show some truly stuck-looking joints- but ours looks clean.
I have to say I feel like a total puss for being apparently incapable of parting it.
Thought for sure I'd have that thing apart by the time the bushings and boots arrived from Splitpile....grrrr.
Well, we'll give it another few days of soaking and encouragement followed by threats and haranguing before we admit defeat and saw it off.
You know what really sucks? I have that ABBA song, "Waterloo", stuck in my head....aauuughh. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
zozo Samba Member

Joined: October 15, 2005 Posts: 5216 Location: South of Ol' San Antonio
|
Posted: Tue May 11, 2010 10:24 am Post subject: |
|
|
| Dan&Dan wrote: |
You know what really sucks? I have that ABBA song, "Waterloo", stuck in my head....aauuughh. |
It could be worse, it could be "Copa Cabana".  |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|