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2/61 15 window restoration
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acrosier
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 3:46 pm    Post subject: 2/61 15 window restoration Reply with quote

Hey there everyone. I'm finishing up the dash wiring and cable routing for Elsa, my '61 15 window with a '59 nose. I need to install the parcel tray underneath, but can't seem to find a photo or at least a discussion of the wire or cable routing. The weldor had pulled the wiring, fuse box, and speedo cable. I just want to get this all back in place correctly, and only have one bus these days, so I haven't a reference sitting next to me. Anyone familiar with a photo link on TS or willing to snap a picture or two to help me get this back together?

Thanks!
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2/61 15-window walk-through "Elsa"

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acrosier
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This is Elsa when I bought her. After selling her to another buyer, the owner hit a deer at 55 mph. The impact had an auto-stop response: it applied the emergency brake. He and his passenger kicked the nose out to drive home.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I picked up this nose to have installed, but no parcel tray. The nose is perfected clean with no bondo. It came off a rolled panel, so no deluxe dash stuff like the grab handle and clock.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Unfortunately, it’s a ’59 nose, so the fuse box support is this:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

So I kept the original damaged frame piece so I could use the original box:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The nose is on now. Yes, my little metal shop VW emblem hangs by a nail until I pick up an actual one. The original emblem and deluxe trim still had deer hair in them when I bought it.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I picked up another parcel tray which I have painted to as closely match the Geo turquoise that the body is painted, for now. The inside of the nose is still Dove Blue, obviously. I’ve already painted the dash.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

So here is my dilemma:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I need this parcel tray in, but where do the cluster wires go? And how does everything route to the fuse box?
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jeremyrockjock
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 6:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Looks like a great repair job.
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EmpiGT
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 7:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

All the wires go over and behind the shelf. The only thing that gets routed through the shelf is the speedometer cable.
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acrosier
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 8:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

EmpiGT wrote:
All the wires go over and behind the shelf. The only thing that gets routed through the shelf is the speedometer cable.


I sure thought so, I just could never remember wires there on my past busses. Thank you!

If anyone has the left kick panel off a '61+ bus, would you mind snapping a pic? For the most part, my wires are uncut, but no matter how I seem to route them, I can't get the fuse panel to sit as it should, or at least how it will when the correct plate is on. I really appreciate it!
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Clara
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

58 :
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This next pic is of a 66, but has the same fuse box as a 61.
It is held in by a clip at the left, just visible in the pic.
The 61 would not have the 9 pin relay box at the lower left:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

hope that helps.
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acrosier
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 22, 2010 10:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clara wrote:
58 :
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


This next pic is of a 66, but has the same fuse box as a 61.
It is held in by a clip at the left, just visible in the pic.
The 61 would not have the 9 pin relay box at the lower left:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

hope that helps.


You rock, Clara! Thank you! I'm somewhere in between those two, but this helps a lot. The '61+ fuse box surround is going in tomorrow evening, so I should be wired up tomorrow. I'm not sure if my steering column brace will bend into place though. Didn't realize how tweaked it was until I was taking pictures earlier to post. This poor bus hasn't been on the road under its own power since 2000. I am so close!
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Clara
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 8:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

acrosier wrote:

I'm not sure if my steering column brace will bend into place though. Didn't realize how tweaked it was until I was taking pictures earlier to post. This poor bus hasn't been on the road under its own power since 2000. I am so close!


The place wher ethe steering column goe sto a bracket which bolts to the bus, you can loosen the bracket up to tilt the column forward/back.
There is a special torque for the bolt that pinches around the piece that move sthe pitman arm, too tight and it can do damge to the box. Torque value in your Bentley.

If the piece between column and tray is bent, there are loads of those around used. There is an early and a late version.
You want the early version. The early version has the chrome screws that are beveled, and the plate has dimples where they go.

Nice work!
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 12:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Clara wrote:
acrosier wrote:

I'm not sure if my steering column brace will bend into place though. Didn't realize how tweaked it was until I was taking pictures earlier to post. This poor bus hasn't been on the road under its own power since 2000. I am so close!


The place wher ethe steering column goe sto a bracket which bolts to the bus, you can loosen the bracket up to tilt the column forward/back.
There is a special torque for the bolt that pinches around the piece that move sthe pitman arm, too tight and it can do damge to the box. Torque value in your Bentley.

If the piece between column and tray is bent, there are loads of those around used. There is an early and a late version.
You want the early version. The early version has the chrome screws that are beveled, and the plate has dimples where they go.

Nice work!


Thank you! Yeah, it's just one more thing, you know how that goes. I built my engine first, got her to fire up while installed with just a toggle I wired in temporarily. I need to get the wiring handled up in front, then throw on some tires, and check the brakes.

Funny story on the tires. They are the original tires from when I bought the bus in '97. I have put a couple thousand miles on it before it went into storage. So when I bought my house last year and moved into it, I needed to push the bus up against the wall. I jacked it up and slid it over. When I let it down, the strain of the toe in condition tore the sidewalls open on the rear tires. Time for a replacement, I'd say!

Incidentally...

BRAKES:

I rebuilt the wheel cylinders 100 miles ago. Unfortunately, that also translates into 11 years ago. I know brakes have a shelf life, but I've just never had one sitting around this long. Am I rebuilding again? I am sure there is a thread somewhere, but just figured I'd throw it out there while I'm here.

Also MUFFLER

I bought a German muffler to fit my 1600-based engine, and I already had Dansk damper, tailpipe, and support. The tab bracket on the muffler and pipe don't line up when the support is on. There isn't even a force... it needs at least half an inch to get a bolt through. Any ideas? I was looking at stock muffler pics in the gallery and saw the same thing on someone else's. They didn't bolt them together, relying on the trianglular support only. I'm close to just drilling a couple of holes in a plate to put between them, but I'd rather it be accurate.
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Rain's Westy
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 1:05 pm    Post subject: Re: 2/61 15 window restoration Reply with quote

acrosier wrote:
Hey there everyone. I'm finishing up the dash wiring and cable routing for Elsa, my '61 15 window with a '59 nose. I need to install the parcel tray underneath, but can't seem to find a photo or at least a discussion of the wire or cable routing. The weldor had pulled the wiring, fuse box, and speedo cable. I just want to get this all back in place correctly, and only have one bus these days, so I haven't a reference sitting next to me. Anyone familiar with a photo link on TS or willing to snap a picture or two to help me get this back together?

Thanks!


It is good to see you getting that bus on the road! Keep up the effort you will not be disapointed once you are driving it again!!
I think there were still some minor welding issues that needed to be done with it that we did not get to on it... PM me if you need any advice or input on any aspects.... I am no longer in WA but would be happy to help in any way I can
That is a really nice bus in my opinion!
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 1:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

At very least you need to take each brake cylinder apart for a good cleaning out and inspection. Doing so will also drain out all the old brake fluid, which is going to have lots of water in it.
We have been leaving brake systems apart for about three weeks to let air dry completely. Then changing to the silicon brake fluid which is not hydroscopic like the usual brake fluid is. You still need to bleed the brakes every year or two with silicon brake fluid to get rid of any water in the lowest part of the brake system.

Sounds like the muffler you have is for a 1200 cc, not the later 1500/1600.

BTW is you old bus nose already gone to the scrapper? We could use some parts off it for a project we have.
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acrosier
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 1:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Rain! Are you still in NY?

Oh there's plenty to do. I got sidetracked with a motorhome and a boat and buying a house, but I'm finally back to it. Poor Elsa always takes the back burner.

Really good to hear from you. I appreciate the offer very much! Metal work will likely be my winter project so expect to hear from me!

Everyone else, credit where credit is due: this is the weldor who blessed Elsa with her new nose and helped me get underway on this project.
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acrosier
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 1:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
At very least you need to take each brake cylinder apart for a good cleaning out and inspection. Doing so will also drain out all the old brake fluid, which is going to have lots of water in it.
We have been leaving brake systems apart for about three weeks to let air dry completely. Then changing to the silicon brake fluid which is not hydroscopic like the usual brake fluid is. You still need to bleed the brakes every year or two with silicon brake fluid to get rid of any water in the lowest part of the brake system.

Sounds like the muffler you have is for a 1200 cc, not the later 1500/1600.

BTW is you old bus nose already gone to the scrapper? We could use some parts off it for a project we have.


Oh, yeah, the old bus mess is long gone. The welding work was done the summer before last. All I have left is the bullet signal metal. (In fact, you can see one in the picture on the floor of the bus)

The muffler I have is a 1500. Is there a different pipe and support bracket for the early vs. late? I'm not sure about the pipe assembly, as I've had it for probably 10 years.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 2:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well the early 40 HP (1200 cc) muffler has a rubber bracket that bolts to the dampener, that bolts to a welded on bracket on the left rear bumper bracket.

1500/1600 muffler has metal bracket that bolted to the left of muffler and to the dampener.

Got images of your muffler?

Lots of good info in the parts manuals:

http://www.oacdp.org/aboutdoc.html

See the links at the bottom of that webpage.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 5:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Well the early 40 HP (1200 cc) muffler has a rubber bracket that bolts to the dampener, that bolts to a welded on bracket on the left rear bumper bracket.

1500/1600 muffler has metal bracket that bolted to the left of muffler and to the dampener.

Got images of your muffler?

Lots of good info in the parts manuals:

http://www.oacdp.org/aboutdoc.html

See the links at the bottom of that webpage.


OK, here is the new muffler I picked up at the PIR show.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Here are the components, with the Dansk stuff I've had for a while.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

When I mock them together, there is no way to bolt through here.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Maybe I'm not getting how this should be. Do I have my layout wrong?

Thanks for the links, E&B! That's a wonderful site! I followed the link that pertains to this, and while it does show both tabs, and hardware through the tailpipe section, it doesn't clearly note if these two tabs are supposed to be bolted together. It's amazing what you forget when you take a couple years off. Egads!

I need to get these sandblasted and powdercoated, but if I need to make some mods I'd like to do that first.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 8:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you look at the parts manual you can see in the parts listing that some parts were used up to a certain chassi #, and other were used on from that number.

If you use the later steel bracket on the left of the muffler, then you do not use the smaller bracket welded to the muffler.

If you use the earlier bracket welded to the muffler, then you use the early rubber support to bolt the outer end of the dampener to the early LR bumper bracket.

Found it is best to just use the later steel bracket bolted to the left of the muffler. Then weld the dampener into the muffler opening. Unfortunately the dampeners when bent loose the round shape and become more oval. So the dampener does not seal properly in the exhaust gasket there. This in turn if leaking exhaust can get into the engine compartment and to the interior. Monoxide in exhaust getting to you or your passengers is not nice, can cause brain damage with long time low exposure, and even death at higher levels.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 23, 2010 11:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the '61 fuse box surround tacked in. Grinding, painting and wiring tomorrow!
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

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Z
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

acrosier wrote:


OK, here is the new muffler I picked up at the PIR show.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Here are the components, with the Dansk stuff I've had for a while.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

When I mock them together, there is no way to bolt through here.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Maybe I'm not getting how this should be. Do I have my layout wrong?

Thanks for the links, E&B! That's a wonderful site! I followed the link that pertains to this, and while it does show both tabs, and hardware through the tailpipe section, it doesn't clearly note if these two tabs are supposed to be bolted together. It's amazing what you forget when you take a couple years off. Egads!

I need to get these sandblasted and powdercoated, but if I need to make some mods I'd like to do that first.


Doesn't the bracket go behind the muffler, so that the bolts go in thru the bracket into nuts that fit in the cage/slots on the muffler?
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Z wrote:
acrosier wrote:


Maybe I'm not getting how this should be. Do I have my layout wrong?

Thanks for the links, E&B! That's a wonderful site! I followed the link that pertains to this, and while it does show both tabs, and hardware through the tailpipe section, it doesn't clearly note if these two tabs are supposed to be bolted together. It's amazing what you forget when you take a couple years off. Egads!

I need to get these sandblasted and powdercoated, but if I need to make some mods I'd like to do that first.


Doesn't the bracket go behind the muffler, so that the bolts go in thru the bracket into nuts that fit in the cage/slots on the muffler?


I tried fitting it on the front (FIF) side of the muffler, but the flanges seem to work against that. I did find this in the gallery that looks good with it in the back of the muffler:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


If I understand E&Bs post correctly, it's one or the other (the triangular bracket or the tabs.) Looks like this guy had the same issue I did.
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Z
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 24, 2010 11:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine is currently disassembled, and its been awhile, so that may well be correct.
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