Single barrel Weber on a 2.0L Engine

[busman78]

Just for fun took one of the Type 4 T127 industrial engine intake manifolds, purchased a new Weber 34ICH carb and installed them on my 78 bay that has a slightly modified 2.0L engine. The 34ICH flows 150cfm which is more than plenty for a 2.0L and the ICH has an enrichment valve where as the 34ICT does not.

It works, runs as smooth as a FI powered engine, smooth idle, no stumbles off the line and plenty of acceleration. Had to play with the jetting a little, the factory sizes are close since the 34ICH is a replacement carb for the 2.25L Land Rover engine. After getting the ICH dialed in I put a 34ICT carb on for fun, it too ran good but required a cahnge to the main and air correction jets to compensate for not having an enrichment valve, plus the F5 emulsion tube had to be changed to a F6.

Here are a few pictures of the set up installed on a spare engine in the garage and a couple of it installed in the bus.

[69rulz]

good info for later FI conversions, i got a 70, but have worked on em, good job

[Wildthings]

Looks like you have been having some fun. I have wanted to take the industrial manifold I have and hack it a bit to get a progressive to bolt on. Then plumb the heat riser tubes into my heater boxes.

[busman78]

Even easier way to get heat, since the tubes on the T127 manifold are larger than the T1 I plan of tapping hot air off the left HE riser tube just as it exits the HE before the diverter, run that forced air through the manifold tubes and then dump it out the right rear. Just an idea, but the air off the HE should be hot enough to warm the manifold and not have to worry about dumping exhaust gases.

Yea a progressive on it would be a screamer, also working on getting my mitts on a 38mm or 40mm bore single barrel carb to try out.

[SGKent]

the neat thing about that set up is that you aren't going to have mixture differences between cylinders like with a progressive. You will need a taller manifold with a progressive to get equal mixture in the cylinders. Put a air horn (bell) type cleaner on that and headers plus a cam and you will see much more HP and top end that FI. Easier to keep tuned too.
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[Wildthings]

No problems at all with unequal mixture when running a progressive, it took a little work but not that much really considering I have gotten two decades of use out of it.

As for using air off the heater boxes to heat the manifolds I tried that long ago and quickly gave up on it. While I have tried other heat sources for now its back to hot exhaust gases for me, though I still want to try oil heat. One of my first attempts to get the progressive to run better was to use one heater box to supply heat to the manifold while the other supplied preheated air to the carb. Neither was that much of a success. My later exhaust heat system is definitely superior for heating the manifold/carb base while just the 72-74 intake air stove beats the heat exchanger hands down on quickly supplying preheated air to the carb intake.

[busman78]

Adapter to mount a Weber DFV to the T127 manifold came in this afternoon. Originally made to mount a Holley 2bbl but easy to drill four holes & tap to put studs in for the Weber. Maybe some day I will get a wild hair and bolt a Holley to it. Testing will begin soon.

[Jeff Geisen]

... my son cut the flange off of a Kadron manifold and welded it to a DP center section, and runs it on his 69 Bus, 1600cc DP. The single Kad delivers the torque and the acceleration is great. Mileage is in the mid 20s on the highway.
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I Corinthians 4: 1 thru 5

‘63 ragtop - ‘68 single cab

[busman78]

Recent Update - Now with a Weber 32/36 DFV on the 2.0L in the bus.
So far with two days of test runs, a few jet changes the single runner T127 manifold provides a lot smother running than the common aftermarket dual runner manifold. Due to warmer weather the heat tube is now off and the vac line to control the enrichment valve has been removed (they are shown in the picture). Used a vac gauge to set idle mixture, the single runner really provides a smother idle. Not finding any loss to power. The idle jet remained the same, ended up going one size smaller on main and one size up on air correction.

[Wildthings]

Removing the line is going to cause the power valve to stay open not closed, so it will be dumping in extra fuel. If you tune it to run with the power valve open it will then cause the engine to be way too lean once you put vacuum to the valve again.

[RatCamper]

What's the little hose on the progressive that is disappearing around out of shot?
My Holley seems to have the blanks for that but I don't know what it's for.
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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.

[busman78]

Wildthings, made a quick edit to the previous post, kind of doing a test as to which would be the best way to have the enrichment circuit, off all the time, on all the time or coming on during acceleration, which in reality the pump jet can be increased to compensate for last one. I may be going the wrong direction this way, next test will be with a enrichment valve minus the rod and spring and filled with JB Weld, closing the valve.

RatCamper, that hose brings ported vac to the enrichment valve, had to drill out the factory plug on the top cover and install a tube, the tube blocks the passage that controlled the valve via a passage to the carb throat. The hose goes to the back side and connects at the ported vac fitting that one would use for vac advanced distributors.

[Wildthings]

I have run my engine three ways at this point.

1. With the power valve plumbed as per factory. I never totally got rid of the off idle dead spot using this method, even with a fat idle jet, pump jet, and several other minor changes to add fuel coming off idle. If starting out up a hill I would just have to pump the gas a bit to get her going. On the flats the flat spot wasn't noticeable though. With manifold heat and preheated air I got 24-26 MPG running this way at speeds of 70-75 mph.

2. With the power valve plunger removed and the carb rejetted. This ran find at all speeds and was only a little weak off idle when the engine was cold. It worked with manifold heat and without, though the gas mileage was better with the manifold heat. When driving at higher elevations this is a good way to go as the carb minus the power valve isn't very altitude sensitive. With manifold heat I was getting 22-24mpg up to 65mph, but the mileage dropped off as I went faster, rejetting the secondaries might have made a difference here.

3. With the power valve replumbed with ported vacuum. Great power starting out this way. I have been able to reduce the size of the pump jet as it almost unneeded. I have tried starting out up a 25% grade with this set up and have had absolutely zero hesitation even when the engine is still pretty cold, don't need to give it gas at all ahead of beginning to engage the clutch. Load the engine a bit, then give it a bit of gas and she goes. Unfortunately I lost all my old jetting records (and dozens of jets) in a move a while back, but I think with tinkering I should be able to get the mileage back up into the 24-26 mpg range this way, but am only at about 20 mpg at present with no manifold heat. The plugs look perfect though.

Need to get hold of an LM-1/LM-2 to make jetting easier as I move along, the hit and miss stuff just takes forever.

[busman78]

When I went from factory plumbing to ported vac to the power valve the difference was quite astonishing, felt it immediately in the seat of the pants. Although even with jetting there was a loss of about 2-3 mpg, but immediate power and it seemed there was an increase in overall performance.

This is how I see what is happening now, correct me if I am off base.

With the valve in the open position all the time nothing is happening at idle, when opening the progression circuit the fuel well is getting non-main jet fed fuel but still the amount to the well is controlled by the AC jet and emulsion tube by the air passing through them and at the same time the volume of air flow through the throat drawing fuel out of the well. The only thing that may happen is an over rich condition since unmetered fuel is feeding the well continually once off idle.

Am I on the wrong drugs?

[Wildthings]

[busman78]

So right now you are running ported vacuum to the power valve?

I did test the ported vacuum, at 5K feet it is rather low, best I could get was 4hg. Not sure what the diaphram needs to keep the power valve closed. Although running in that set up was a huge improvement over using the factory set up.

[RatCamper]

This is very interesting. Where did you all find out how to do that? Was it factory optional or something figured out later on?

this actually might be part of the key to me getting away with using the Holley instead of the Hitachi for registration. That is if I can get the blank on the other side of the fuel inlet drilled and tapped so I can relocate the inlet. Otherwise it'll foul on the distributor. Not VW engine, remember so don't worry too much about that. My problem.
I will say that to do a carburettor swap it needs to be with one that gives better emissions. I think that argument could be won based on the Holley having a vent hose connection for the canister and the Hitachi not.
I'm also intrigued to see how close the jetting in the Holley will be for the new motor.
There's a manifold floating around in the mail for me somewhere with a modified carburettor base to fit a Weber. When it arrives I'll be able to find out just how close a VW 1.8 and an OHV Subaru 1.8 really are.

Are there any other useful blanks on the carburettor? This is very interesting.
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Vehicle: 1975 Special order delivery walkthrough panel based pop-top camper (LCA / Sunliner). Motor: Nippon 1.8L Single port Wasserboxer, Transmission: 3 rib 002.

[Wildthings]

[RatCamper]

[busman78]

For fun installed a new power valve on a DFV top laying around, hooked a Mity-Vac to the port, it takes 9hg's to suck the valve up and hold it. Going back to check the ported vac on my engine tomorrow with a different vac gauge, the one I used yesterday just tested with the Mity-Vac and it reads low. I believe you are right, should have the same vacuum in the ported vac when open as in the intake since the port is a direct feed.

RatCamper, as for altitude, sea level setting is good till about 3,000 feet, for every thousand feet of climb after that you richen by one size in main without having to do anything, so to have the power valve engaged would only increase the richness. I have been to tree line with my bus and the engine runs like a worn out dog, no oxygen but lots of fuel.