Defrost Assembly Made Easy

[Aynthm]

I've read what has been posted about this subject. Here is how I made mine. This is for those with the center defrost vent. Mine is a '66

8' piece of DWV Pipe Need 2@ 1' each 1.5" (ID)
7' length of Pool Hose 2@ 12" and 2 @ 2.5' 1.25" (ID) (you need to custom measure)
1' Clear vinyl hose 1" (ID)

You'll have 6' of the DWV pipe left over for use on something else.

When cutting the Pool hose for the center, I had to make the passenger side longer to fit up and over the glove box. The driver's side was shorter.
Measure these hoses first so you don't end up wasting material, it's $3.27 a foot.

Make sure you clean out any debris in the channel and put the white pipe down there. Put the "Y" adapter on and fit the hoses. Take your time and get it right the first time. I use the 1" clear hose as an adapter for the center vent so I would not need 3 different sizes of hose. I used just one size hose for the vents and the pipe for the bottom of the channel. Everything fit perfectly. This will outlast the fiber/alum hoses I hope.
The total cost was $28. No shipping charges, got the hoses at Home Depot.

Good luck.I just made this edit The "Y" fit loosley in the white pipe so I superglued a small piece of innertube onto the bottom of the "Y" that will make it fit snugly into the white pipe and not wiggle at all. I only used the rubber around 1/2 of the circumference of the "Y" because if I used it entirely around...It would not fit in. Some alum tape might be good to put around all connections when final assenbly is complete to seal out any leaks. ..[/b][color=red]

[anthracitedub]

Let us know how well these materials hold up to the heat…namely where they connect to the heater channels. Looks like a pretty clean set up, but I'm just concerned about the heat melting the materials….probably be alright, but over extended driving periods things get pretty warm. My 62 has the original ducts but uses a 71 DP engine, with the larger, fan it has more output….it actually cracked the windshield on the inside from the defroster. When I noticed the crack, I put my hand on it and the glass was very hot. So now, with a new windshield, I have to be mindful of how long I keep the heat on…sometimes I'll stuff a rag in the vent (driverside) to stop the heat….my car gets uncomfortably hot. I thinks its funny how much people spend on heater boost systems, hack in fans and all that jazz…when really you just have to address the stock setup and make sure your seals are good. Carpet and padding also are big bonuses for holding the heat in the car.

[andk5591]

[fluxcap]

I've actually been using that same blue/black hose and pvc method on my car for about 2.5 years now. I have aftermarket heater channels (not very good ones) and the outlet pipe at the bottom of the a-pillar is resting pretty much right against the inside of the a-pillar. There was no way I could ever have gotten the paper hose over the heater channel outlet pipe.

I found pvc pipe that fit super snug into the outlet pipe. I tapped a small screw into it about 1.5 inches that rests on the outlet pipe. This keeps the pvc from ever falling all the way into the heater channel and bottoming out thus cutting off the warm air flow. I then ran the blue/black hose over the pvc and up to the outlet connection at the window.

The blue/black hose was labeled as being for a hottub so I figured it would handle hotter temperatures. Used it through two full winters so far and it has worked great. Had it out a few months ago while working with my wire harness, and it was still in the same shape as when I installed it. Looks to have held up to the heat just fine.
_________________
Eric - 1966 camper bus

"It's like, how much more black could this be, and the answer is none.......none more black."

[Aynthm]

Good to hear that it'll hold up. My car is months away from being ready. I just saw that flexible hose and wow, just what I was looking for. Thanks.

[Duude]

Thanks for the info. This is great! I have been looking for a solution for years and this makes great sense. The price is right and it seems simple enough. I added one of the heater assist kits under the rear seat and it cooks me out and it will be awesome to have the windows clear too.

[Aynthm]

I made an edit to the original post adding the rubber on the bottom of the "Y" to make a tighter seal.

[johnanddes]

Just a question, is the PVC pipe necessary? I bought the pool hose and I am ready to connect it to my heater channel (which isnt too bad) and I was wondering if the PVC is even needed or is it just because you guys have a vent in the middle (my car is a 64 bug). Thanks. Great write up though
_________________
John

1969 documented numbers matching bug
1968 F250


Keepin the ISS from colliding with space junk

[Aynthm]

I needed the PVC (white) pipe to put down the holes on each side because my old hoses were crumpled. The hard pipe covers the heater channel and fits tight. That is what I connect the "Y" to. I guess you could just use the blue hose if you could find a way to stretch it over the heater channel pipe. I can't get my hand down there and I can barely see down there. That's why I take the white pipe and work it down there easy. I don't know if a '64 has the "Y" part. Just do what you have to do. I can't wait to put mine back together and drive it. I am pulling the dash apart now and labeling all the wires. Then....well....much more to do. I just got my new silver/beige steering wheel and silver/beige turn signal switch is on the way. I still need to go many more miles.

[johnanddes]

Mine doesnt have the Y pipe option (although the big Bentley does explain how to install one ). Ill just install the tube itself and see how it goes. Surprisingly enough, thanks to some twisting, I can fit my arm down there and hopefully stuff it on. I may clamp it just to make sure its on though, havent decided yet.
_________________
John

1969 documented numbers matching bug
1968 F250


Keepin the ISS from colliding with space junk

[johnanddes]

For all of you out there that do not have the Y piping, I have just finished installing the pool hose (worked like a champ) and it tested good. What I did was I had to cut lines into the bottom of the pool hose (once you cut it to size, I left a little extra just in case my method didnt work and I had to go buy more). Here is how I did it:

1. Cut to length
2. Cut 8 lines (6 spirals high (blue spirals))
3. Cut 2 small sections out (So it looked like a top of a castle like this:
__
[_] [_]

4. I then duct taped the end together so it formed a smaller circle
5. Shoved it into the heater channel
6. Connected it to the top and wrapped up
_________________
John

1969 documented numbers matching bug
1968 F250


Keepin the ISS from colliding with space junk

[Aynthm]

Nice job!

[johnanddes]

Thanks Aynthm, Ill keep you posted on when I do the other side. The real test comes on Monday when I get up for work at 3 AM!
_________________
John

1969 documented numbers matching bug
1968 F250


Keepin the ISS from colliding with space junk

[beneharris]

thanks for this thread guys, ill be doing this here in the next day or so. i'll let you know how it works for me too

[scubaaron]

Thank you for this thread, the pvc pipe idea got me rolling in the right direction. Its tough to fit my arm down into the infernal abyss to connect to the heater channel let alone get a hose on and clamp it! Juts in time for old man winter...

[Aynthm]

[youngnstudly]

I did the same thing years back with the CPU cooling fan, but I don't have the center defrost vent in my 63' so I used the factory speaker grille location instead. My setup has an old emergency flasher switch located in the factory spot for that switch on 66' and up cars. It helps quite a bit when running, but the part I like is the fact that it doesn't draw defrost air when the motor is off, so I still get full defrost. The stock system can work great, but I like to get heat (and defrost) sooner on really cold (icy/rainy) mornings so I messed around with these ideas. I use the stock flexible tubing to connect the defrost and heater channels though as it is cheap, proven, and not too difficult to install. Aynthm's tubing is fine too and easier to buy.

The bilge motor I installed years ago too. I'd go 3" on the next one though. I wrap everything (even factory tubes under the rear seat) with Heating insulation so that any metal that is part of the heating duct is insulated. Obviously the carpet over the heater channels does a good job of insulating so you don't need anything more there.

Andy
_________________
The economy is in a state of disaster, we have NO time for common sense!

[Bassdude404]

[Bassdude404]

Ok took a good look at my own car, and the front defrost hoses are all intact and in good shape...Went into town and apparently have the cables for the heat exchangers adjusted incorrectly as I have heat all the time...But operating the left lever doesn't change any of the routing of air in the car...Got back home and I can see the cable being moved (black lever), towards the rear of the car, and can hear something, but have no clue what it's attached to under the rear seat area....I have to replace the throwout bearing next weekend, and doing the clutch and pressure plate while I have the engine out of the car..While I have it that far apart, would like to at least check and see that everything with the heater controls is hooked up correctly...Anybody got a picture, or schematic they can steer me too??...

Thanks for any help guys and gals...
_________________
My motorcycle has a radiator, but my car doesn't.....

[VOLKSWAGNUT]

The right lever controls heat/fan volume, the left lever controls, the footwell and defrost when the front ankle burners are shut.

The right side cable routes to the heat exchangers at the engine.
The left side cable routes to the "Y" tubes and control flaps under the rear seat.

_________________
aka Ken {o\!/o}
Its your vehicle- stop askin' for approval-do what YOU like for cryin' out loud
Better to roll em' how you want and wear em' out-than lettin' em' rot out
Its about the going not the showing
Rebuilt to drive not decorate
WANTED: Local Eatin' Joints, Triple D for TheSamba contributions here http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=570510
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