BN2 Gas Heater Help

owdlvr · Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 2:13 am Post subject: BN2 Gas Heater Help

Just in case, I have searched the Samba and haven't been able to find the answers I'm looking for.

I have an almost brand-new BN2 that I rescued out of a '72 Super Beetle, complete with wiring harness and all the "bits". After following the checks and maintenance suggestions I found on the Samba, and fixing a broken fuse holder, it was determined to be theoretically working. Only problem was that the fuel pump was not.

So I strapped the heater down to a workmate, attached a length of fuel line and fed the heater fuel via a pipette. Having never experienced one of these in action, all I have to say is "wow". They sure do pump out the heat!

I've bought a couple of used pumps at swaps, and one here on the samba. All were claimed as "working", but in practice they don't. The wiring and heater system definitely send power to the pump, when replaced with an LED I can see the heater attempting to cycle the pump.

So what I really want to know is this:

1) Are there any options besides finding a used pump that *hopefully* works?

I can see the flow should be 24-25cc per minute, but would need to remember how flow rate and pressure are related to find something that might be used. Better to ask here first!

2) Can someone confirm that it was the overheating switch (fuse) that I had to create a work-around for? If so, will it function for overheat as I have it, or do I need to find a new unit? (lets assume, for the moment, I replace the 10amp fuse with a 7.5 since the stock one is 8amp). Note: I'm using a modern style ATC fuse in my work-around, should be obviously visible.

3) Exhaust outlet clamps, is there a source for these?

Photos of my heater...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Exhaust outlet clamp missing.

broken fuse holder work-around

Components like new...

Not bad shape, for being 39 years old.

-Dave
_________________
---
Instagram: @DaveHord
1971 1302s - Salzburg Tribute the #RallyBug
1958 Beetle
1975 Beetle
1973 Super Beetle
1993 C3500 with Cummins swap
1967 MGB
1963 MG Midget

Tingman · Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 3:05 am Post subject:

The power to the pump should pulse. There are two sets of points in the fan assembly, one is for the spark plug the other is for the fuel pump. The pump one is on the other side of where the fan blade is on the motor itself. You'll need to check that to make sure the points are ok. Those points are also geared, so that they pulse every 30 revolutions or so. You'll also find a lot more info on these heaters in the Thing forum. They have a whole section on these with electrial prints and all the info you'll need to get your heater going.
_________________
73 Thing (current project)
84 300SD Mercedes (diesel)
86 300SDL Mercedes (diesel)
03 230SLK Mercedes

Wolfgangdieter · Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 4:03 am Post subject:

Clamp on one I had looked like a std VW muffler clamp with the asbestos ring.

http://www2.cip1.com/PhotoGallery.asp?ProductCode=VWC-111-298-009-GER
_________________
CMC '57 Porsche Speedster Replica and Dolphin boat tailed full pan VW MOD-T Street Buggy

busdaddy · Posted: Wed Jan 12, 2011 9:35 am Post subject:

The clamp is the same as the tailpipe clamp for a late FI beetle.
Your fuse workaround might be OK, is that the terminal that grounds when the contact under the cover closes?
Unscrew the end of the pump or give it a few good longitudinal whacks, they don't fail often but do stick internally. Measure the output with a graduated syringe after and adjust the cylinder in or out as necessary.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

79 vert · Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:02 pm Post subject:

Do you know that the end of the pump that has that threaded nipple on it should not be tightened up as if to seal a line. How deep you thread it in will dictate how much it pumps. If you crank it down, you will have froze the pump.

owdlvr · Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 8:20 pm Post subject:

Yup. Haven't adjusted it for flow, just checked it for action.

-Dave
_________________
---
Instagram: @DaveHord
1971 1302s - Salzburg Tribute the #RallyBug
1958 Beetle
1975 Beetle
1973 Super Beetle
1993 C3500 with Cummins swap
1967 MGB
1963 MG Midget

79 vert · Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 7:28 pm Post subject:

did that fix it?

owdlvr · Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 10:51 pm Post subject:

Haven't had a chance to get back to the heater. Garage is a disaster from doing floor pans and prepping the Audi for ice racing.

Give me a few days and I'll report back Smile

-Dave
_________________
---
Instagram: @DaveHord
1971 1302s - Salzburg Tribute the #RallyBug
1958 Beetle
1975 Beetle
1973 Super Beetle
1993 C3500 with Cummins swap
1967 MGB
1963 MG Midget

owdlvr · Posted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 10:13 pm Post subject:

owdlvr · Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 3:56 pm Post subject:

Well, testing for flow might be a moot point. The pump leaks around the outer rim...

You can see the pump surface is wet, that's all coming out the seam between the outer body and the end cap.

-Dave
_________________
---
Instagram: @DaveHord
1971 1302s - Salzburg Tribute the #RallyBug
1958 Beetle
1975 Beetle
1973 Super Beetle
1993 C3500 with Cummins swap
1967 MGB
1963 MG Midget

busdaddy · Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 5:47 pm Post subject:

That's the first time I've seen that Shocked

sure it's not coming from the jamb nut on the cylinder and creeping up there?
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

owdlvr · Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 6:36 pm Post subject:

Hmmm..."was" sure. Definitely cleaned the body with brake clean, dried it off and checked...but now that you mention it I wonder if I was just confirming it "was leaking".

Guess I'm gonna be running the pump again tomorrow Razz

Thanks for the help.

-Dave
_________________
---
Instagram: @DaveHord
1971 1302s - Salzburg Tribute the #RallyBug
1958 Beetle
1975 Beetle
1973 Super Beetle
1993 C3500 with Cummins swap
1967 MGB
1963 MG Midget

busdaddy · Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 8:35 pm Post subject:

A little permatex #2 or pipe joint compound on the threads of the cylinder usually stops the leak (if it is indeed leaking there). Try not to move the jam nut too much as the amount the cylinder is screwed in relates to the volume the pump makes, if it`s currently set for a BN-2 you`ll want to keep it in the ballpark. Still measure the output when you`re done, too much soots up the heater and burns out the heat exchanger and glow plug and too little is well... cold.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

owdlvr · Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 8:34 pm Post subject:

Well, wasn't leaking from the body...but wasn't leaking from the threads either. Clamped both of the clear test lines to the pump today, and no leaks. Got some great heat out of the heater today, heck if I could run the exhaust pipe outside I'd have a nice garage heater.

Thanks for the help, now I just need to find brackets and tubing for a Type1 non-super. ...might be the hardest part.

-Dave
_________________
---
Instagram: @DaveHord
1971 1302s - Salzburg Tribute the #RallyBug
1958 Beetle
1975 Beetle
1973 Super Beetle
1993 C3500 with Cummins swap
1967 MGB
1963 MG Midget

79 vert · Posted: Sun Jan 23, 2011 9:35 pm Post subject:

Email [email protected] This guy is a real wizard with these heaters and he has lots of parts. I got the ducts for mine from him. Great guy. Martin Allen is his name.

busdaddy · Posted: Mon Jan 24, 2011 8:29 am Post subject:

itHaKa · Posted: Fri Feb 04, 2011 11:01 pm Post subject:

owdlvr · Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 1:44 am Post subject:

Figured I should follow up on this post...

A local friend was able to donate a somewhat rotten exhaust pipe to the project...

I was able to use the top section, and fab'd up the rest of it.

The "foot" piece (which I gather protects the front tire and ensures the exhaust isn't getting water pushed up it) was missing, but The Samba had directions on how to make one. Now I just need to coat it all in high-heat header paint.

With the exhaust finished, and the interior duct pieces I I figured I had enough to make up some brackets from scratch. Turns out a mountain bike buddy of mine, who lives 5min away, has a '72 standard bug out back with...wait for it...BN2 installed! Borrowed the two brackets I could actually get out of the car, and voila! I have a set for my car.

...may have gone a bit overboard with the Heat shield products...but I had some left over from the rally car, so why not? Yes, I'm fully aware that VW never put any in, but I've got a bin of the stuff.

Combine gas heater with random bits found in the garage...

Mount up the heat shield so it all looks fairly factory...

and you're good to go. I'm having some issues getting the gas heater to fire reliably in the car, but I believe it has to do with voltage to the heater. If I rev the car to 1800rpm, the heater lights up within 60sec. I've got some work to do in that area for sure.

-Dave
_________________
---
Instagram: @DaveHord
1971 1302s - Salzburg Tribute the #RallyBug
1958 Beetle
1975 Beetle
1973 Super Beetle
1993 C3500 with Cummins swap
1967 MGB
1963 MG Midget

79 vert · Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 8:43 am Post subject:

You are right about the voltage. Once my car was complete, I also discovered that same thing. A fresh charge and a good alternator and you will be fine. Just in time to enjoy it for a while before summer. You should run it once a month even in the summer to keep good gas in the line.

busdaddy · Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2011 9:58 am Post subject:

If the grounds or terminals on the resistor coils inside the heater shell are dirty it sometimes causes hard starts with low voltage, an old glow plug can also cause a similar issue.
Congrats on completing your project!
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!


Hello! Log in or Register \| Help \| Donate \| Premium Membership \| Buy Shirts	See all banner ads \| Advertise on TheSamba.com

Forum Index -> Beetle - Late Model/Super - 1968-up		Share:
		Print View

	Forum Index -> Beetle - Late Model/Super - 1968-up	All times are Mountain Standard Time/Pacific Daylight Savings Time Page: 1, 2 Next
Page 1 of 2