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What's with the #4 on the Subi power plant (carnage)
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Racerrojo
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:02 pm    Post subject: What's with the #4 on the Subi power plant (carnage) Reply with quote

This post is not to cause or feed the subi hating from some purist, but to enlighten those that might have similar troubles.
I less than a years time, I had two EJ engines go kaput because of # for connecting rod.
First and low mile EJ 25 on my '85 Westy had a loose bolt and nut on the bottom of #4 connecting rod and...

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


And just recently mileage unknown EJ 22 on a different '85 Westy just "grenaded" it self to Sh...t

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

I think it needs an oil change
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


I was not driving the second one, and according to the driver owner it had plenty of oil going up a hill @ 5k rpm, the connecting rod went caca and trashed every thing on it's path.
I know I'm not the only one with this issue, Has any body have any ideas on why this is happening.
They both use a shortened oil pan.
Any way I'm putting a 45k miles JDM 2.2 engine. I hope is a good one Pray
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Vango Conversions
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Man, that sucks!

I've always been a little bit suspicious of the JDM engines. I know that plenty of people use them with no problems but if I bought a new car in japan and knew that I would need to part it out at 45K miles I certainly wouldn't do much maintenance on it. I mean why even change the oil...ever.

I have a theory as to why at least the one motors blew up. If it had a shortened oil pan and was running 5 quarts of oil or more, it's possible that the oil came into contact with the crank or pistons while it's running at 5,000 RPM the load of the crank and pistons hitting the oil can be quite high at that speed, causing stress on the rod. Also if the crank starts whipping through the oil, it can foam up and cause oil starvation.

I'd try running no more than 4 quarts of oil in the next engine. It should keep this from happening again. How much has your pan been shortened anyways? does your oil pump pickup have the proper clearance to the bottom of the pan? Too much clearance can cause the pickup to suck air at some angles and too little clearance can cause a high RPM restriction and oil starvation. Even having an improper gasket or too much silicone on thew oil pump pickup can cause a problem.

Before the 2.2 blew up did it ever blow smoke out the exhaust when going up hill at high RPM?
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, that sucks. A friend blew two motors -- the common part was the oil pump. First one threw a rod going up a hill, he found a short block and swapped all the components and it ran fine, for a while. When the second one blew, he took a closer look and found the oil pump was the problem.

I'm not sure anyone really knows how much oil is in the bottom of the stock pan not to mention the shortened pan at any given rpm. Well, other than when the the rpm is zero and almost all the oil is drained into the pan. Maybe someone here knows with some certainty, but I'd guess its quite a bit.



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r39o
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am hoping to side step the oil level / quantity issue by using a Small Car aluminum oil pan.

While the Suby is quite reliable in a lighter weight sedan application, remember we are loading the little rice burners pretty well with 5000 pound vans. We ask for a lot of steam far more frequently than when they were in their before life. In other words we are asking for a higher duty cycle. Add to the facts that most are well used before get them. No wonder some explode under the strain.

In the old days we would, almost never, just stick a used engine in a car. We would open them up and overhaul them. It was economical to do that and you could get parts. Now we just do a unit replacement and pray we are lucky. Sometimes our prayers are not heard and one dies.

I attribute such deaths to running the engines hard and cheaping out by just sticking them in.

Win some, lose some.
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Gorge Runner wrote:
Yeah, that sucks. A friend blew two motors -- the common part was the oil pump. First one threw a rod going up a hill, he found a short block and swapped all the components and it ran fine, for a while. When the second one blew, he took a closer look and found the oil pump was the problem.

I'm not sure anyone really knows how much oil is in the bottom of the stock pan not to mention the shortened pan at any given rpm. Well, other when the the rpm is zero and almost all the oil is drained into the pan. Maybe someone here knows with some certainty, but I'd guess its quite a bit.
Marc


99-05 is 4.8

06 up is 4.2

Same engine.

shorten oil pan (based on 99-05) is 4-4.2.

To have the crankshaft wiped oil you need at least 6 quart.
Oil foaming is not a big problem on our daily driver. unless you run that engine at 6000 rpm for 10 hours

Engine can work with only 2 quart without any problem.

Tested by me.

2.2 & 2.5 have no known rod problem. Same goes for short or long block, this is not a known or common problem.

That said, it's pretty easy to blow up any engine.

Blame the oil pickup on some short oil pan.

this is called oil starvation. Now open up that engine and find the real problem. It should be pretty easy and obvious.

Engine (stock pan or not) are design to work at angle as much as 50deg.

It's so easy to do a conversion wrongly. Those little detail...

I don't care who did modified this oil pick up but look for a leak in this one.

Don't blame the engine for this kind of problem. Blame the conversion part or the guy who put those part together. Now, what is the clearance between the bottom of oil pan and oil pickup?

Why do you think I charge so much!
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 11:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I forgot one thing, 2.5L will in average eat oil, about 1 quart every 1500 miles so check your oil once in a wile. A small price to pay for reliability.

Ben
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insyncro
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Classic oil startvation for sure.
Did you swap all the conversion parts from one motor to the next with the same result?
I agree with Ben...check the pickup for proper fit.

dylan
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r39o
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 9:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So just how do you check your oil pickup tube?

Would an oil pressure gauge show weird things going on?

Help me before I do something dumb and button my Suby engine up.
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914 mike
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Who's shortened oil pan/pick up did the OP use? Did he swap it from the first trashed motor to the second?

These motors are notorious for lasting 300k +.....from the factory. If something like this happened its like what Ben is saying....must be due to tinkering with oil supply stuff....I have Kennedy stuff on mine and have been from Baja to Banff with no problems...its also my daily.

I wouldn't loose sleep over the issue, r39....just give it a good looking at...
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know I've read of some folks having a streak of bad luck with Subi conversions... but it sure seems to be in the minority. I find this of interest partly because I still need to shorten my oil pan and I want to make sure I get it right.

There are a couple of quotes here that I thought were worth commenting on... and one that I just couldn't resist:

Ben said:
Quote:
2.5L will in average eat oil, about 1 quart every 1500 miles so check your oil once in a wile.
Can you qualify this statement? You've got more experience than anyone on this thread with these conversions, but your statement isn't true for a stock 2.5L with a stock oil pan... so I'm wondering what I'm missing. I've got a 2001 EJ25 in my Vanagon, 2003 Outback with an EJ25, and my wife has a 2008 Forester with the newer version of that same engine. None "eat oil" and I haven't seen this reported on the Outback, Forester, or NASIOC sites, so I'm assuming this refers to engines with shortened pans.

r39o said:
Quote:
While the Suby is quite reliable in a lighter weight sedan application, remember we are loading the little rice burners pretty well with 5000 pound vans.
Fun fact... I looked up the weights of my 2003 Outback Wagon and my Wolfsburg/Carat style Vanagon... they are so close that the passenger load makes a bigger difference than the curb weight of the vehicle. Granted, I can stuff 2 more people and a lot of stuff in the Vanagon.

r39o:
Quote:
So just how do you check your oil pickup tube? Would an oil pressure gauge show weird things going on?
Like I said... I'm still running a stock pan & pickup tube. If the pan's coming off I think it's worth replacing the o-ring on the pickup tube. I had to buy mine from the stealership... it was about $4 for about $0.05 worth of seal, but I was buttoning things up and it wasn't worth the time to try to shave $2 or $3 off. There are also some seals in the oil pump that it was recommended I replace, but I thought that was for leakage problems rather than oil delivery. In any case, I replaced them.

If you start sucking air I would expect the pressure to drop. One odd thing about these engines is they run like 70-80psi when they're above idle as opposed to most engines I'm familiar with... about 40-60psi. I've seen that documented on the Subi sites... so it just seems to be they way they're designed. I installed oil pressure and temperature gauges in the Vanagon so I have a better idea what's going on. It will be interesting to see if shortening the oil pan causes a change in the oil pressure or temperature behaviors. Since the pressure is controlled by the pressure relief system, the only things that should change it temporarily is lack of oil at the pickup, cavitation/foaming, or a drop in viscosity due to overheating... at least that's all that comes to mind.

EDIT: Removing troll food, with my apologies to everyone but the troll! Smile
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ftp2leta
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 10:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ahem - the utterance of a sound similar to clearing the throat; intended to get attention, express hesitancy, fill a pause, hide embarrassment, warn a friend, etc.

I had to look this one up Smile lot of Lol, double lol again.

Volksaholic:
Lately, in the car owner manual you can read that the engine may take oil for the first 6-7k miles. Engine breaking I guess. As I'm using late engine I often see that (report from customer). It seem to get better with time.

That said, I'm honest enough to tell you that I had to replace 2 2.5L (07-09) because of heavy oil consumption. Heavy, 1 quart every 300-400 miles.

That said, the 07 as been in my van and I can confirm. Now, this engine (short block) is on an engine stand and I will put it it million pieces soon and report later. Those 2 engine didn't sustain any obvious damage (car accident), but both where rollover!!!!!!! Oil starvation? Coolant in the pistons ring???

Now do your own search about 2.5L oil consumption, you may be surprise. On my side with 46 conversion done it seem that it's not a common problem. My 01 never consume oil at all. The 09 I have in there now either.

Average consumption seem to be about 1 quart to 1.5 per 3000 miles (5000km).

I have report of heavy smoke wile climbing/descending steep hill, last a few second, to much oil - foaming -crank splashing .

Short oil pan:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


That was our first oil pickup, welded. It's now in one piece (bent-expensive machine)

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Latest oil pan, bottom is 1/8 thick, carefully welded and tested.

Total dept, 4-1/8 including the 1/8 bottom plate.
Oil content: 4.2liter
Dipstick: using the stock unmodified 20006-10 one

This is a picture on a stock 06-10 oil pan (we can't use those):
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Look at the carving to clear the new header (car), that is why they are back at 4.2L

Sorry, no picture of the new oil pickup.

Oil pickup distance to oil pan bottom: 1/4 MINIMUM - 1/2 MAX

Hope that help, now back to my conversion
Ben
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ftp2leta wrote:
Oil pickup distance to oil pan bottom: 1/4 MINIMUM - 1/2 MAX Ben


x2.
And the pickup itself should be at a slight angle as Ben has shown in his photos.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

r30o wrote:
While the Suby is quite reliable in a lighter weight sedan application, remember we are loading the little rice burners pretty well with 5000 pound vans.
volksaholic wrote:
Fun fact... I looked up the weights of my 2003 Outback Wagon and my Wolfsburg/Carat style Vanagon... they are so close that the passenger load makes a bigger difference than the curb weight of the vehicle. Granted, I can stuff 2 more people and a lot of

I was thinking the early 1993 EJ22 powered car my engine came from and my big white elephant Westy.

Small lower drag little car verses non-aerodynamic mobile camping tent / giant brick van.

I suppose the newer cars are getting heavier so that begins to even up some but does not account for the difference in aerodynamics.
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r39o
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not to thread jack, but while on this oiling topic. Is this windage tray in all the engines? If not, can it be used in my EJ22 application?
.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

r39o wrote:
Not to thread jack, but while on this oiling topic. Is this windage tray in all the engines? If not, can it be used in my EJ22 application?
.


Sorry R39 but what to you mean by that?

Are you talking about the oil baffle?

Ben
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r39o
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 12:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, that press formed golden piece of sheet metal under the modified oil pick up you show. What you refer to as a "baffle" is what I mean by a "windage tray."

While on the topic, how do you clean the old oil tube pick up screen? In days of old we always found debris in crimped area of the screen. It has to be clean, of course, of such junk before installation.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 3:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

r39o wrote:
Yes, that press formed golden piece of sheet metal under the modified oil pick up you show. What you refer to as a "baffle" is what I mean by a "windage tray."

While on the topic, how do you clean the old oil tube pick up screen? In days of old we always found debris in crimped area of the screen. It has to be clean, of course, of such junk before installation.


Ok, well the 2.2L I have work on (98 up) had such a baffle, I don't know about the earlier one.

I even think it was the same.

Again, I work on very late engine so no need to clean anything Smile

but if I had to, I would use brake cleaner from the grill side and some compress air after, part removed of course.

About oil starvation, the oil pan as a small O-ring on the return metal oil tube!!! It's easy to miss this one. If not there the oil will not go directly at the bottom of the pan.

No need to tell you guys that the oil pickup also as an O-ring....

I have no precise picture of the pan interior but you can see the oil return passage on this picture, look at the red arrow, on the opposite side (pointing), that big hole on the right top corner.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Ben
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 3:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

r39o wrote:
r30o wrote:
While the Suby is quite reliable in a lighter weight sedan application, remember we are loading the little rice burners pretty well with 5000 pound vans.
volksaholic wrote:
Fun fact... I looked up the weights of my 2003 Outback Wagon and my Wolfsburg/Carat style Vanagon... they are so close that the passenger load makes a bigger difference than the curb weight of the vehicle. Granted, I can stuff 2 more people and a lot of

I was thinking the early 1993 EJ22 powered car my engine came from and my big white elephant Westy.

Small lower drag little car verses non-aerodynamic mobile camping tent / giant brick van.

I suppose the newer cars are getting heavier so that begins to even up some but does not account for the difference in aerodynamics.

Right... there's no doubt that the drag of a Vanagon is more than my Outback. The newer Outback and Forester are closer to the same drag because the roofline is higher... but a pop-top Vanagon is about as un-aerodynamic as you can get.

I was surprised to find that my Wolfsburg weighs about the same as my Outback. You're right... add a kitchen, pop-top, cabinets... and the worse... Syncro drive train... you're talking some weight. Still, I think Bob Stevens was pleased with the EJ22 in his Syncro Westy ('86 or '87), although I suspect it would be hard for him to go back since he's had the H6 EZ30 for almost a year. (That's a sweet looking installation.)

Ben... that makes more sense to me on engine break-in. When I'd build new aircooled engines I always expected that until the rings seated. My '03 Outback was just out of break-in when I bought it. My '01 EJ25 in the Vanagon doesn't lose any noticeable amount of oil between changes... with exception of a month ago when I damaged the unshortened oil pan and sprung a leak! Sad I'm planning on shortening the oil pan this Spring, so I'm still taking in what info I can regarding what's worked and what doesn't with the shortened pans. For the meantime, JB Weld is keeping the oil pan sealed up.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well the two vans had their own short oil pans,
I measured about 1/4" between the pick up and the bottom of the pan, there was debries at the pick up screen (but was not cloged).\
A few Weeks earlier the owner of the van was driving it pretty low on oil I could hear the lifters 50 feet away, obiusly that engine was burning some oil but it was not obius smoke or serius leaks, I replacec the PCV valve, toped it off and the noice went away after a few miles. Maybe the damage was done then.
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 5:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rolling Eyes Fine. maybe I exaggerating, but I rather have to deal with a EJ than WBX any day. But... for each its own. there's planty of other treads that people can hash it out about that.
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