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booch
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Joined: July 03, 2008
Posts: 784
Location: Ambler, Pennsylvania
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 Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2011 11:03 pm Post subject: Eberspacher BN2 gas heater 311-261-103C |
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Another gas heater thread............
I just picked up this heater and need some more information about it.
What years and models was it designed for?
Can I use it in my 1970 Beetle?
What other parts do I need?
Anyone have pics of this model in a late standard Beetle?
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Koeppler
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mondshine
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| Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:50 am Post subject: |
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The plastic duct work varies from car to car.
The parts in the photo look like they are for a standard Beetle, or maybe a T3.
On 1302's ("flat" windshield Supers) the hot air duct is different.
On 1303's ("curved" windshield Supers, the heater is mounted transversely, and the duct work, mounting brackets, and exhaust system are completely different.
More information on your installation plans will help.
Good luck, Mondshine |
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booch
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Location: Ambler, Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 8:01 am Post subject: |
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Thanks for the replies.
| mondshine wrote: |
More information on your installation plans will help.
Good luck, Mondshine |
I would like to install the heater in my 1970 Beetle.
I will probably do as you did mondshine and only duct the hot air, letting it draw the cold air from the trunk.
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Boble
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| Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 8:21 am Post subject: |
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I just installed a BN2 in my 1302 1972 super, and the heater is fantastic.
I underestimated the efforts needed to get it working and the amount of work to install it. But look at is as a great project. Take your time.
First thing you need is to bench test it unless you are sure that it works. Expect some issues with the pump, for example.
Secon thing you need is the installation manual. You have to cut 6 holes in you car, and you need the templates in the book for that.
Then you have to make sure you have everything. All models have different brakets and pipes.
Good luck! |
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mondshine
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Location: The World's Motor Capital
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| Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 8:24 am Post subject: |
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Well, good luck with it Booch.
I suggest you come up with your mounting brackets first; either through the classifieds, or fabricate your own.
Once you are completely satisfied with the heater's mounting, you can use the duct work to finalize the location of the holes for intake, exhaust, and hot air to the cabin. There are templates available for this, but you have to fit the thing to your particular situation. There's nothing like the feeling you get when standing next to your favorite car holding a big a$$ hole saw!
Be patient and careful; there's only one chance to get it right.
Drawing cold air from the trunk has worked well for me, just try to fabricate some kind if screen or grille for the intake to keep from sucking a grocery bag into the heater.
Good luck and Happy New Year, Mondshine |
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cableguy
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Boble
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Location: Oslo, Norway
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| Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 5:34 pm Post subject: |
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| mondshine wrote: |
I suggest you come up with your mounting brackets first; either through the classifieds, or fabricate your own.
Once you are completely satisfied with the heater's mounting, you can use the duct work to finalize the location of the holes for intake, exhaust, and hot air to the cabin. There are templates available for this, but you have to fit the thing to your particular situation. There's nothing like the feeling you get when standing next to your favorite car holding a big a$$ hole saw!
Be patient and careful; there's only one chance to get it right.
Drawing cold air from the trunk has worked well for me, just try to fabricate some kind if screen or grille for the intake to keep from sucking a grocery bag into the heater.
Good luck and Happy New Year, Mondshine |
Good to have a BN2 tread here!
Mondshine, wise words!. Agree on pre-mount before the cutting. I used the templates, and that worked very well, but doublechecking everything when it is mounted before the hacking starts is definitely a very good idea!
Not to be picky (hope you are not offended), but I disagree on the "cold air from the trunk" part. It may work, but it may not. Depends on how air tight the trunk is. The BN2 needs constant free flow of air, and underpressure may lead to too little air flowing through the burner, causing the unit to overheat.
Booch, be aware that the air inlet for the burner itself (the 1/2 inch or so flexible tube in the bottom) needs to have the proper length to get the right resistance for correct fuel/air mix. You need the steel tube that connects to the flexible hose to get the right length.
Your BN2 looks very nice! Hopefully it is working fine. You may want to check the electrical work on it. Especially the copper spade connectors may be sloppy and loose. I had to replace most of them on mine. The Eberspächer is very sensitive for voltage, and you want all connectors to be in good shape.
Good luck with the project! |
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mondshine
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| Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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Boble-
I agree. I decided to use air from the trunk for 3 reasons:
First, the advice of Mr. James Dagg, a knowledgeable BN2 guy.
Second, I didn't want to cut any more holes than absolutely necessary.
Third, the u-turn inlet takes up a lot of trunk space.
Booch-
If you decide to use the inlet ducts, you could always make another hole later; easier than plugging it up.
Once you get the heater in, if you're interested, I can send you info on a thermostat to regulate the cabin temperature and a remote start latching relay to pre-warm the car. These things are very inexpensive.
The knob on the left side of the IP switches the heater on, and turning it clockwise sets a higher cabin temp. The little blue blob is the temp sensor.
Good luck, Mondshine |
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booch
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Joined: July 03, 2008
Posts: 784
Location: Ambler, Pennsylvania
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| Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 6:39 pm Post subject: |
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| Boble wrote: |
| Booch, be aware that the air inlet for the burner itself (the 1/2 inch or so flexible tube in the bottom) needs to have the proper length to get the right resistance for correct fuel/air mix. You need the steel tube that connects to the flexible hose to get the right length. |
Are you referring to the pipe in the bottom left corner of the picture below?
The heater is very clean. I tried the electical connections on the bench and it seems ok. The fan turns as it should and there is a steady clicking (more like purring) from the fuel pump. I will try it with gas sometime over the weekend and post the results.
| mondshine wrote: |
Boble-
I agree. I decided to use air from the trunk for 3 reasons:
First, the advice of Mr. James Dagg, a knowledgeable BN2 guy.
Second, I didn't want to cut any more holes than absolutely necessary.
Third, the u-turn inlet takes up a lot of trunk space.
Booch-
If you decide to use the inlet ducts, you could always make another hole later; easier than plugging it up.
Once you get the heater in, if you're interested, I can send you info on a thermostat to regulate the cabin temperature and a remote start latching relay to pre-warm the car. These things are very inexpensive.
Good luck, Mondshine |
I am still on the fence with my plans for the ducting, or lack of it.
Any thoughts on having all of the gas heater output routed to come out of the factory defrost vents? When I rum the BN4 in my Thing I usually keep the output on defrost because it clears the windshield fast and it is not too hot on my legs. The Beetle is going to be a daily driver, always outside car.
Mondshine, I just may be interested in the thermostat and remote start, but first things first...... 
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mondshine
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| Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2011 7:03 pm Post subject: |
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At the time I installed my BN2, James Dagg sent me a photo of a duct modification he made which involved cutting a hole in the plastic heater outlet duct (which leads to the cabin) and splicing in a short hose to the driver's side defroster inlet (in the trunk).
Unfortunately, it is now a dead link; no photo. Maybe James will chime in here.
The regular heat system in my '71 Super is completely intact, so I get plenty of warm air to the windshield. I never felt the need to do this, but James said he was happy with the modification.
One of the cool features of the transversely mounted BN2's in 1303's is the better integration with the car's ventilation system.
Once you get into your installation, take lots of photos.
Good luck, Mondshine |
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Boble
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| Posted: Sat Dec 31, 2011 4:26 am Post subject: |
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Yes, I think the curved pipe is the one for air intake for the burner. However, I'm uncertain of the type. Mine is almost straight, and goes down through the metal by the spare tire. But then remember, my car is a 1302 (Super w/flat windscreen), so things are different.
Regarding the integration with the ventilation system, there is no such integration originally. The hot air is pouring from the outlet above the driver's left knee. Air is sucked back into the unit from up under the dash, making this a kind of closed-loop system.
This is one of the downsides with the system: Humidity and fogged up windows. You need to play with the fresh air system in parallell to keep the windows clean. The 2000 Watt heater effect is fantastic, and I normally run it for only a couple of minutes before I have to turn it off, it gets too warm in the car. By that time the engine is warm, and I maintain the temperature by the normal heating system.
Anyways, here is the hot air oulet:
Just for the record, here are some pictures from the installation. Again, this is a 1302, so due to the Mc Pherson struts, it will be different installation in your standard. However, the BN2 should sit in the same place in the trunk.
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