Timing slips out of adjustment

[rippofunk]

I have an 009, about twice a month maybe a little more, the timing goes from 7BTDC as far as 8 ATDC at idle. Dwell is typically the same. maybe a degree of wear, but no drastic change and within spec. Pretty recent issue, started in September. maybe it slid back once before then.

first thing i do when it happens is grab the distributor with both hands and see if i can wiggle it with moderate force, every time its tight.

This distributor chewed through 3 sets of points over the summer, i just assumed a bad batch of bosch points. the rubbing block broke on them all.

~12K miles on a rebuild. My initial thought was cam or something inside, but once i readjust the timing it runs awesome.

I took the distributor apart, pretty much down to the lower half shaft still in housing, everything thing seemed good and tight. No timing scatter. it just retards on its own.

i always have a hell of a time getting the gear out, dont think i have gotten one out with out splitting the case, and i think thats where i should look next.

additional question, if its the gear, chances are its the crankshaft gear as its the softer of the 2?

am i missing anything? should i swap out the distributor or go right for the gear?

Thanks for your help.

[Glenn]

A few questions:

1) Is it a Bosch 009 or a Chinese copy?
2) Is the clamp a OE German or aftermarket?
3) Do you grease the cap with Bosch Distributor Grease?
_________________
Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

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[Bill271]

Swap the coil and condenser, also mark the dis when the timing is right and see where u have to move it to get back to the right setting

[rippofunk]

Thanks for the fast responses.
Glenn:
1) It is a genuine Bosch 009. I would have sworn it was a german 009, but i dont see germany on the bottom only bosch.
2) I believe its an OE clamp. its the same style i clamp i have seen on all of my stock engines. Its a 1776 in my 71 daily driver bus that i dont drive everyday.
3) no. I am due for a new cap and rotor for sure but have never, ever used, or seen the grease. I do oil the shaft cotton piece with what ever oil i have handy at the moment, maybe once or twice a year. lightly so as not to have oil slinging.

i do inspect it every time it happens, i take the cap and rotor off. i have not inspected the inside of the rotor. But i try and twist the cap gently and then the body with 2 hands when i discover it. its a slow process. it doesnt just jump. i start to notice a loss in power, and back firing. i always check 5 other things before i start to think its my dist.

I should mark the body with a marker that is a good idea.

Thanks again.

[Glenn]

If it says BOSCH on the bottom and not GERMANY then it's made in Brazil. Their quality is not up to German standards. It could have worn bushings or missing shims that can cause the timing to wander.

Same style doesn't mean its OE. I've seen aftermarket clamps twist and bend when you rev the engine. Personally, I rather have a used OE and a new aftermarket. If it's a chrome or gold cad plated.... get rid of it.


You need to grease the cam so that the rubbing block does not wear. I'd put over 20,000 miles on a set of points. If the block wears it will increase the dwell and eventually fail.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

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[Alstrup]

FYI. CSP has good stock style clamps. So far I have mot seen problems with them. The bolt is a through bolt though. I normally spotweld the head to the back side so I dont have to use 2 wrenches when tightening.

T

[slalombuggy]

There used to be a small blister pack of grease in every Bosch point card. You need this to put on the cam of the distributor where the rubbing block runs. If you don't do this, you will, as you have seen, burn the rubbing blocks off in short order.

Oiling the cotton inside the shaft is only for lubricating the distributor shaft where it pivots to give you your advance. If everything is staying tight outside then it is an internal problem such as the rubbiing block wearing out.
I've used a cheap chrome clamp for years without problem. The Brazilian distributors are good, the German ones, better, the Chinese ones are crap. the new Canadian made ones are as good as the German ones.

brad

[Glenn]

It comes in a tube and for the "average" person, one tube will last a lifetime.

I get about 10 months from a tube.

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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
"You may not get what you pay for, but you always pay for what you get"

Member #1009

#BlueSquare

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[ridenrace6]

if its the clamp causing the issue and you cant find a good used factory clamp then i would try one the billet aluminum clamps, they look beefy enough to do the job

[HRVW]

What I did was to hacksaw OFF the small tab next to the bolt on the clamp.

What happens is that people tighten the bolt which will twist the clamp and at times lift the dist out of the hole and engine stops etc.

In addition I have seen where the small screw that holds down the points w/o the small washer will allow the points gap to close and the timing RETARDS and the engine will run HOT.

Work on a few hundred and the problems will repeatedly show up.

(VW mechanic/engine builder/parts house owner of 28yrs?

[Cusser]