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1978 CE Westy with uncommon 32/36 DFAV Weber carb?!
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rotezora
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 2:23 am    Post subject: 1978 CE Westy with uncommon 32/36 DFAV Weber carb?! Reply with quote

Hi,
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Just recently this nice CE Westy came home from US into my hands Very Happy

The former owner done some modifications. The origianl ignition was taken out and for that a Weber Carburator was put there.

32/36 DFAV 23A K7
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The Problem is that this piece is poorly installed. Some tubes are just closed with a screw. Also the mixture is way too rich. I'll tried to connect the cold start with the ignition (pin 15) but this grilled some fuse Shocked

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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Is this okay to close the tubes like that?

Does anyone have this combination working in their Bus? Is it a good solution, regarding maintainability, fuel consumption and performance?
Was this sort of carb already used in the late 70s?

Would be great to find some fellows with the same configuration, because here in germany this combination is rather unknown.

best regards,
Marco

ps. if the former owner recognize his bus - it would be great to know him. not for punishment of the changes made Wink
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 5:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Marco, There has been a lot of discussion here on Samba about these carbs. The Type 4 engine does not have any way to heat the intake manifold so the use of any center mount carb is going to be a problem as the carb will run icy cold even in warmer weather. They can be made to run decently but this takes a lot of fabricating to do well. Out of the box the carb tend to run lean coming off idle and have a bad bog, so many people jet their carb to run overly rich to prevent this, it sounds like that is how your carb is set up.

If you have any kind of pollution standards you need to meet, you will probably not be able to do it with this carb and should go back to the stock FI or maybe dual carbs since that is what I believe many European Type 4 powered buses used.

Here is a thread that covers many of the issues with these carbs.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=217070
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SGKent Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 5:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

totally agree with Wildthings. Those carbs were designed for water cooled manifolds where the port runners came off the same side, not opposing runner air cooled. They can be tuned to run effectively but one will never pass smog with them. The droplets will never effectively vaporize unless you are running preheated air. And, unless you can turn that preheated air off or regulate the temperature once it gets too hot it'll start a fire the first long hard grade you climb on a summer day which will melt the inside of the carb and maybe valve ports. Been there in a CJ7 when the preheat tube valve stuck open on a long climb and it started a stack fire. Car died but just in those 20 seconds or so as it died it made a puddle out of the intake manifold aluminum electric preheat disk. It melted that aluminum round thing with the wire in the photo below.

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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 9:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If it were me, I would be looking for a decent set of dual carbs for this bus.

Italian or Spanish Weber 40 IDFs would be my first choice.
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tootype2crazy
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PostPosted: Wed May 08, 2013 9:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Randy in Maine wrote:
If it were me, I would be looking for a decent set of dual carbs for this bus.

Italian or Spanish Weber 40 IDFs would be my first choice.


I agree. To add to that get your yourself some cable/pulley linkage as seen here: http://www.tangerineracing.com/engine.htm This type of linkage is vastly superior to any other kind out there, it is super easy to sync and will stay in sync much longer than cross-bar or bell crank. It is also easier on the throttle bushings. The only problem is that it is expensive
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1978 Sunroof Deluxe Bus (daily driver)
1978 Transporter (mom's, making into a camper)
1970 Single Cab 2.1 turbo/EFI 6 Rib, 78 front beam, vanagon backing plates on rear (project)
2001 GTI VR6 (wife's)
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rotezora
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 3:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

hey,
thanks for the hints.

bigger modifications are no option now. Double weber are surely nice but also expensive.
i'll just try the get it running and if there are any hints for adjust the current setup i would appreciate that Smile

marco
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 5:11 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have never had any luck with that carb, but go over here and read up some....

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=217070&highlight=suck
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Bleyseng
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 6:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get ahold of samba member Bursch in Bussum,NL as they might still have a OEM set of dual solexes for a bus. They run megasquirt fi on their camper that has gone to China and South Africa!
Or source a complete fuel injection set up for your bus and toss that piece of crap carb into the garbage as it will never run right on your bus.
_________________
70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles
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NASkeet
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 8:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bleyseng wrote:
Get ahold of samba member Bursch in Bussum,NL as they might still have a OEM set of dual solexes for a bus. They run megasquirt fi on their camper that has gone to China and South Africa!
Or source a complete fuel injection set up for your bus and toss that piece of crap carb into the garbage as it will never run right on your bus.


Ralph & Lucas van den Houten's VW Type 2, is of North American specification, and had originally had Bosch L-Jetronic fuel injection, rather than twin Solex carburettors, like we have in Great Britain, for the 1972~79 VW 17/18/2000 Type 2 & 1980~83 VW 2000 Vanagon.
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Bleyseng
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 6:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, I know that but they had a set of Solexes sitting on the shelf from a parts bus. They run Megasquirt and also Ljet as a back up. Its worth a shot to see if they still have em and will sell them as anything is better than that single carb.
They live not too far from my sister in law...as this is me working on their bus.
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_________________
70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles
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Pcrog027
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PostPosted: Fri May 10, 2013 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have that carb on my 77 riviera. I dont even run it when its below freezing outside. I just got a full FI setup which has taken me 2 years to locate. Hopefully I will move away from that weber this summer! I dont know where you are located but if its below 25 latitudes you will be fine.
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Bleyseng
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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 7:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Pcrog027 wrote:
I have that carb on my 77 riviera. I dont even run it when its below freezing outside. I just got a full FI setup which has taken me 2 years to locate. Hopefully I will move away from that weber this summer! I dont know where you are located but if its below 25 latitudes you will be fine.


His location is listed as "Berlin" so he is in Germany. Can get pretty cold there so the single carb will be problem. FI is the best choice if he can locate a complete setup but there are stock dual solex setups out there.
_________________
70 Ghia Black convert-9/69 build date-stock w/133k 1600 SP-barn find now with a rebuilt tranny and engine
77 Westy 2.0L w/Ljet, Camper Special engine-95hp and with LSD!(sold)
76 Porsche 914 2.1L L20c, 120hp Djet (sold)
87 Syncro Westy Titan Red 2.1L 2 knob 100k miles
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Wildthings
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PostPosted: Sat May 11, 2013 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you can find the pieced off of a European bus for the air preheat, building an adapter for the carb is easy enough, I am assuming they had this system. This will allow the bus to be driven down to temperatures of 5°C easily enough.

This is the setup I ran for years and it worked well enough, it used the heater box as a hot air source. I later got all the VW pieces together and used them instead of the heater box. Using the VW pieces made a noticeable improvement in how fast hot air got to the carb.

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