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Motorola Sapphire XVIII tuner control repair
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vw73bug
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 1:37 pm    Post subject: Motorola Sapphire XVIII tuner control repair Reply with quote

Hello everyone,

I'm a first time poster but long time lurker whose found these forums very helpful since I inherited a 73 Bug a few years ago. So, first, thank you!

My question: I've got a Sapphire XVIII radio in really good shape, except that the tuner knob no longer works, but simply spins freely. I pulled the radio and opened it up to find the problem. Apparently, the shaft turned by the tuning knob features a universal joint, the forks of which are fixed to the ends of the shaft with what look like hollow tube rivets. One of these rivets is worn/broken, so now the knob and u-joint spin independently of the rest of the tuning mechanism, thus the problem.

Any advice/ideas on how this rivet might be fixed? I was wondering if a spot or two of solder might be strong enough to make the shaft solid again. The dial seems to put up a lot of resistance, so its probably full of gunk that needs to be cleaned out (the tuning mechanism inside the radio operates manually easily and smoothly, however).

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Thanks!
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cletus_zuber
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 2:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Search radio repair in the classifieds. There's a couple guys here can help.
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ghia4mea
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 7:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't have the same radio as you, I have the Sapphire XIV but it has the same tuning drive setup as your radio. I checked with a magnet and the tuning shaft that the knob goes on is solderable. The tough part is cleaning the parts well enough to do a good solder job.
The shaft that has the gear that engages the white plastic gear is pot metal or aluminum and cannot be soldered. If that side has the issue, I would clean it well, apply crazy glue GEL, and after that has set properly, I would add a bit of JB weld Clay, not the liquid stuff.
I can't think of any other good/proper way to repair this problem. I have repaired several of these AM and AM/FM radios, and these type of mechanical problems are not unusual in gunked up radio drives. The clutch often gives slipping issues too, but can be adjusted.
Good Luck
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vw73bug
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

cletus_zuber wrote:
Search radio repair in the classifieds. There's a couple guys here can help.


Did the search. These look like good resources, especially if I break things even worse. Thanks for the tip; I thought I'd seen a link to a radio restorer's website here on the forum sometime a while ago.

ghia4mea wrote:
The shaft that has the gear that engages the white plastic gear is pot metal or aluminum and cannot be soldered. If that side has the issue, I would clean it well, apply crazy glue GEL, and after that has set properly, I would add a bit of JB weld Clay, not the liquid stuff.


Yeah, that's the side that has the issue. I wasn't sure what that material was, so I was unsure about soldering. Thanks for the info - didn't know about a JB Weld clay. I'm looking at the JB Weld website; Just to make sure I get the right stuff, are you referring to an epoxy putty stick (http://www.jbweld.com/products/product-family/epoxy-putty-sticks/), or something else?

Thanks again everyone.
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Cusser
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PostPosted: Tue Aug 20, 2013 8:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Several suppliers make an epoxy stick product, sold at retail.
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ghia4mea
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 9:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes that is the correct stuff, epoxy putty stick. I keep it on hand as it is very handy stuff. Can be shaped and placed most anywhere. Just try and clean the surfaces well for good adhesion.
Good luck.
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vw73bug
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 1:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cusser wrote:
Several suppliers make an epoxy stick product, sold at retail.

ghia4mea wrote:
Yes that is the correct stuff, epoxy putty stick. I keep it on hand as it is very handy stuff. Can be shaped and placed most anywhere. Just try and clean the surfaces well for good adhesion.


Thanks. Stopped by the local Ace and picked up a stick, and some super glue gel. After cleaning the surfaces as best I could, I applied a small amount of the super glue, trying to get it down inside the joint around the rivet and around the base where the u-joint rests against the pot metal gear. Then, once that was set per the package instructions, I packed a bit of the epoxy over the top of the rivet inside the u-joint fork. I see why you suggested a putty rather than a liquid; hopefully, as it cures it will grab the broken rivet and lock in place inside the fork.

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ghia4mea
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ok that sounds good. You might want to make a fillet of JB weld on the back side of the fork and extent it around the shaft, there seems to be plenty of room. This will distribute the stress onto both sides of the fork.
Let me know how you make out.
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vw73bug
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PostPosted: Wed Aug 21, 2013 5:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ghia4mea wrote:
Ok that sounds good. You might want to make a fillet of JB weld on the back side of the fork and extent it around the shaft, there seems to be plenty of room. This will distribute the stress onto both sides of the fork.
Let me know how you make out.


Good idea. Will do.
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vw73bug
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 12:10 am    Post subject: Success! Reply with quote

Success! Took a few tries, but some needle-nose pliering, jeweler tooling, and a bit of shameful (but soothing) swearing got the freshly cured section of the tuning shaft back into place. The epoxy is working so well, it was making it difficult to spread the fork wide enough to get the u-joint snapped back together (ghia4mea, I took your advice and added additional epoxy around the base of the fork; there was plenty of room, and the joint now seems very strong). The tuner now operates cleanly and smoothly.

If this repair can withstand the abuse I just gave it, this radio ought to last for another 40 years.

Thanks for the help and advice ghia4mea, and everyone!

Trying to upload a video of the working radio to the gallery, but apparently it doesn't take video Crying or Very sad Here's a pic instead:

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ghia4mea
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 7:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Beautiful job! I bet it lasts a long time. Cleaning the rest of the moving parts and a tiny bit of lube will smooth things out and make tuning easier. Be careful not to get any lube or oil on the clutch surface or its mating surface.
Happy Trails!
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vw73bug
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 23, 2013 10:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks again.

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jim_hoyland
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Terrific post ! The pictures are really good; my tuner knob became inoperative and I opened the case thinking I had the same problem. It turns out that the green plastic toothed gear ( shown in the pics) broke. I have two pieces that are loose and the hub is still on the shaft.
I think the pieces could be glued back together, but I can't figure out how to get the hub off the axle.

My initial question: Is this part replaceable, or even available ? Has anyone done this repair ?

Here's a couple of pics of my parts: The radio is a Sapphire XXIII


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Teafortwo
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A wild suggestion for a high tech, low cost solution.

Recently the small gear in my speedo split, a common fault in VW's. My neighbour has just bought a 3D Printer and was intrigued by my dilemma. Also he was desperate to try out his new toy. He took my gear and a couple of hours later came back with a very passable copy. I've not yet had a chance to try it, so no guarantees. All he did was measure the diameter and shaft size, count the teeth. He has a generic program so was able to draw up the gear. The printer did the rest.

Your gear wheel is quite fine, but it may be possible to get one printed. Does anyone on The Samba have a 3D printer and willing to give it a go?
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jim_hoyland
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Teafortwo wrote:
A wild suggestion for a high tech, low cost solution.

Recently the small gear in my speedo split, a common fault in VW's. My neighbour has just bought a 3D Printer and was intrigued by my dilemma. Also he was desperate to try out his new toy. He took my gear and a couple of hours later came back with a very passable copy. I've not yet had a chance to try it, so no guarantees. All he did was measure the diameter and shaft size, count the teeth. He has a generic program so was able to draw up the gear. The printer did the rest.

Your gear wheel is quite fine, but it may be possible to get one printed. Does anyone on The Samba have a 3D printer and willing to give it a go?


What a great idea ! One problem I have is getting the hub off the shaft; can't see how it comes off without going into uncharted territory.
I've read about the 3-D printers and this could solve the replacement challenge.

Another solution might be to find a non-working Sapphire that still has a working turning knob and remove the gear. Plus copies could be made off of it..
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Teafortwo
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 9:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My low tech suggestion would be to use epoxy glue, I favour Areldite. It is slow to set but can be speeded up with a hair drier. Once set you might need to take a very fine file to remove any residue glue from between the gear teeth, where the joint is. Worth a try because the wheel is basically scrap as it is and when the mechanism is freed up and oiled it should work OK, it is not performing a high precision task.
For the wheel to fail so catastrophically, it suggests a jammed mechanism suggesting that any Sapphire should be opened and checked prior to spinning the control.
If we consider the previous failure of the peened rivet and your shattered wheel this may be a common failing, which could be avoided by lubrication.

Good luck!
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jim_hoyland
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 22, 2013 7:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For those looking to buy a used Sapphire, or any other vintage unit; I would recommend opening it up and oil the tuners moving parts and look for previous repairs.

I ended up sending my unit to the Radio Doc in Florida.
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