1973 412 project

andersonj · Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 4:56 am Post subject: 1973 412 project

I am busy restoring a 412 variant manual, the car is stripped down.

I have started on the engine to get it running and then I will move on to the rest of the car.

So far replaced all engine hoses. Fuel pump faulty and going to use a normal 2 port pump if I cannot get a 3 port replacement.

I have also removed the front master brake and clutch cylinder and handed it in for repairs.

andersonj · Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 5:03 am Post subject:

andersonj · Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 9:55 am Post subject:

andersonj · Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 9:57 am Post subject:

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andersonj · Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 9:59 am Post subject:

andersonj · Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:08 am Post subject:

I have been trying to remove the clutch slave cylinder, but now it is basically off of the bolts and refuses you move any further, it feels like something inside is holding it and the space is so small that leverage is limited. Sad

Mike Fisher · Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:39 am Post subject:

Do you have a couple good 412 Manuals to explain the car? www.books4cars.com is a good source for new/used manuals!
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two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

andersonj · Posted: Tue Sep 03, 2013 10:47 am Post subject:

my manuals have been, thesamba and the shoptalkforums, but I will check the website out

raygreenwood · Posted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 1:30 pm Post subject:

This is a common problem. because the cylinder is iron and teh case is aluminum/magnesium....electrolytic action corrodes them together. Put some penetrating oil on and around the slave cylinder...tap it a few times wit ha hammer and let it sit for a while. Them...under one ear...insert a screwdriver and pry...then move to the other. It will eventually start moving. Ray

andersonj · Posted: Wed Sep 04, 2013 10:16 pm Post subject:

thanks Ray, it is now about 90% out, it feels like something inside is holding it slightly, but I definitely will pop out very soon.

now that its almost out, brake fluid started dripping out, I take it that is not correct, unless something tore or broke while prying it loose.

raygreenwood · Posted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 8:22 am Post subject:

There is no snap ring holding the piston in for this cylinder. There is a spring inside. The only thing really holding the piston in is friction from the seal and the pushrod.

There are several issues with this cylinder that should be corrected when you restore it.

1.) the upper pivot point for the clutch arm is a disc with an E-shaped cut-out held into the transmission case by a circlip.

Typically this disc bends or tears because it is too thin. It causes the fulcrum point to move leading to gear grinding because it changes the cylinder stroke length.
I usually take a piece of 8-10mm metal dowel rod and put a slot in it lengthwise with a hacksaw. Then you can ijnstall it over the fulcrum edge in the E-slot in the disc. It gives it a thicker edge for the fork to bear against so it cannot tear. You can install it with a set screw or with a tack weld.

2.) If the E-slot tears all the way (very common)...it will allow the clutch fork to begin grinding on the clutch diaphragm fingers and will eventually crack the clutch throwout fork....ask me how I know this...it sucks!

3.) also having too much slack in the upper fulcrum point because of a bad E-slot disc...will cause the slave cylinder piston to over extend...pulling the boot away and allowing clutch dust to destroy the seal.

I can send you a drawing of what must be done this evening and it will be more clear. Ray

andersonj · Posted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 8:50 am Post subject:

thanks Ray,

So this whole procedure is most likely easier done with the engine/gearbox out to inspect and correct everything.

I will check out your drawing once posted to get a better understanding, but your explanation does make sense.

raygreenwood · Posted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 9:39 am Post subject:

andersonj · Posted: Thu Sep 05, 2013 10:35 pm Post subject:

Had my brake and clutch pedal cluster, sandblasted, time to spray it

New car look here we come Smile

andersonj · Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 6:53 am Post subject:

my next step is to remove the front fuel tank, and need to remove the front suspension for that.

could someone maybe assist with a guideline.

the tank has some gunk inside and maybe some surface rust.

Mike Fisher · Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 7:21 am Post subject:

I've never heard of a car, where you had to remove the front suspension to get the gas tank out? Shocked

_________________
https://imgur.com/user/FisherSquareback/posts
69 FI/AT square Daily Driver
66 sunroof,67,70,71,71,71AT,72,72AT,73 Parts
two 57 oval ragtops sold
'68 Karmann Ghia sold

Society is like stew. If you don't keep it stirred up you end up with a lot of scum on the top! - Russ_Wolfe/Edward Abbey

raygreenwood · Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 7:45 am Post subject:

raygreenwood · Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 7:45 am Post subject:

andersonj · Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 11:19 am Post subject:

Thanks Ray. I will give the suspension a good inspection when its out and see what condition its in.

raygreenwood · Posted: Fri Sep 06, 2013 12:53 pm Post subject:


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