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esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5971 Location: central rust belt
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:53 am Post subject: Alternate cylinder head temperature mounting ideas |
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I have a 600* vdo gauge in my car and while last changing out the plugs, for the first time I had a bear of a time getting the #3 plug through the sender ring and into the head with my hand jammed behind the carb and manifold. The ring would get caught up on the cylinder tin, or the plug threads, or wrapped around the socket, and I came very close to starting the plug crooked into the head as a result. I saw some aluminum on the first plug thread, stopped, and ran a chasing tap down the hole. In the end I stuck it into cylinder #4, figuring that something is better than nothing, and at least it's on the side known to run hot. But it got me wondering, surely there has got to be a better way?
Is there a better spot that could be drilled and tapped to more permanently install this ring? I have tried an upper center head stud and it does read low, I was thinking maybe one of the lower studs, or maybe there is a more ideal spot to drill and tap? A permanent stud could be installed to clamp the sender to, maybe where a second set of plugs is fitted for dual plug heads? Any thoughts? |
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Cptn. Calzone Samba Member
Joined: June 27, 2007 Posts: 1855 Location: S>E>Alabama
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:14 am Post subject: alternate areas |
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I agree its a bitch to deal with ring and it can and will distort and leak or give a false reading.Some people have clipped the wires and jbwelded the wires themselves as close to the#3 plug with good results.In that same thread a few experts came forth and claimed it would never work.Ihave the ring in two seperate bus motors and will try the clipped wire method next time the motor is out as the ring is such a pain. _________________ 71 westfalia
67 912 Porsche Quintilla
67 Single Cab aka my work horse |
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jhoefer Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011 Posts: 987
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 9:42 am Post subject: |
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DO NOT just clip those wires. If there is not a good electrical joint between the two different special alloy wires your temp readings will be inaccurate, if it works at all and JB Weld is an insulator. The ends of the two wires are typically welded or brazed together. The ring is just crimped over them. You can trim back the ring, but do not mess with its crimp area. (You could try to pry the whole ring off but that has a high probability of damaging the connection.) You can epoxy what's left where you want.
Last edited by jhoefer on Sat Apr 12, 2014 1:48 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Boolean Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2012 Posts: 1712 Location: Stockholm
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 9:57 am Post subject: |
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Or just weld the ends together again. Done with acetylene/oxygen. Just dont cut the leads shorter than necessary, as this will affect accuracy. An inch or less is ok. _________________ I strive for perfection. Excellence will not be tolerated!
Build thread here:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=529379 |
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Eaallred Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2003 Posts: 5756 Location: West Valley City, Utah
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 10:13 am Post subject: |
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Under the plug is where it's at if you want a useful reading. That's as close to the valve seats as you're going to get, and that's the critical temp reading.
Get the valve seats too hot, and that's when they drop!
Anywhere else is just a reference number so you know when you're running hotter than normal. Which can work, as long as you know THAT is what it is and adjust your driving style accordingly to keep the temp where it is "normally". The actual number becomes useless at that point, just normal and not normal is what you are going by. _________________ Eric Allred
You have to remember something: Everybody pities the weak; Jealousy you have to earn. |
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Stripped66 Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2005 Posts: 3470 Location: Charleston, SC
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 11:42 am Post subject: |
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I drill a small diameter hole above and parallel to the spark-plug boss and sink the thermocouple end down about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch into the head.
Thermocouple stays in with or without the spark-plugs. CHT responds quicker. _________________
66brm wrote: |
Bodacious wrote: |
Why not just make a custom set of wires with a Y splice in them. Then you could just run one distributor. |
I don't think electrickery works that way |
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andy198712 Samba Member
Joined: December 05, 2010 Posts: 1209 Location: Cornwall - UK
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:15 pm Post subject: |
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would EGT be the fastest reacting? but i guess it wouldn't truly indicate head temp _________________
Alstrup wrote: |
I like 5,5inchers in the rear at least. |
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Cptn. Calzone Samba Member
Joined: June 27, 2007 Posts: 1855 Location: S>E>Alabama
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:33 pm Post subject: tt |
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Stripped what holds the thermocouple in place? _________________ 71 westfalia
67 912 Porsche Quintilla
67 Single Cab aka my work horse |
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tattooed_pariah Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2006 Posts: 2047 Location: El Cajon, CA
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:56 pm Post subject: |
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This was brought up sometime last year, and someone talked about a company that makes guages for ACVW aircraft use..
I cannot for the life of me remember the company now.. I was looking at one of their digital gauges that costs like $400 and had the ability to monitor four sensors, each sensor was like another $80..
anyone have any idea what i'm talking about or is my stupid question too vague? :/ _________________ -pariah (just a novice from "that other VW site")
'72 Volksrod "Effigy"
"Never worry about stepping on people's toes. People who get their toes stepped on are either sitting down, or standing still on the job."
-Admiral Arleigh Burke, USN(ret.) |
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Boolean Samba Member
Joined: January 19, 2012 Posts: 1712 Location: Stockholm
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tattooed_pariah Samba Member
Joined: April 24, 2006 Posts: 2047 Location: El Cajon, CA
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 1:42 pm Post subject: |
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maybe that was it, i found that googling this morning but it doesn't look familiar.. _________________ -pariah (just a novice from "that other VW site")
'72 Volksrod "Effigy"
"Never worry about stepping on people's toes. People who get their toes stepped on are either sitting down, or standing still on the job."
-Admiral Arleigh Burke, USN(ret.) |
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Stripped66 Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2005 Posts: 3470 Location: Charleston, SC
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:18 pm Post subject: Re: tt |
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Cptn. Calzone wrote: |
Stripped what holds the thermocouple in place? |
Currently, they are peened over. At some point I may use thermal epoxy to hold them in place, but peening the aluminum works fine. _________________
66brm wrote: |
Bodacious wrote: |
Why not just make a custom set of wires with a Y splice in them. Then you could just run one distributor. |
I don't think electrickery works that way |
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Stripped66 Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2005 Posts: 3470 Location: Charleston, SC
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:21 pm Post subject: |
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tattooed_pariah wrote: |
maybe that was it, i found that googling this morning but it doesn't look familiar.. |
Check out MGL Avionics: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/1105719.php
A bit cheaper than your estimate. You can pick up thermocouples from Dakota Digital. It's temp-compensated, easy to read (you can choose how you want the 4 channels displayed), and it's digital. _________________
66brm wrote: |
Bodacious wrote: |
Why not just make a custom set of wires with a Y splice in them. Then you could just run one distributor. |
I don't think electrickery works that way |
Last edited by Stripped66 on Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:24 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5971 Location: central rust belt
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:22 pm Post subject: |
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I'm understand what Eric is saying about between the valves being the most critical accurate temperature. If there's a way to get a stud mounted into that mass of the head that forms the chamber, just not the actual spark plug, is what I'm after. I think it would be pretty accurate, maybe a few degrees off from at the plug but close. In looking at some Mofoco heads, I have the idea that if I cleared a spot through the fins on the underside (above the push rood tubes) I could maybe tap into the head there. I guess it would be a matter of accurately drilling and tapping the hole, to hit the center of the area. The linked website has several senders that are available in 10mm ring, that would be perfect for what I'm thinking of. I'll post up a pic or two of what I'm proposing in a bit. SD |
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Eaallred Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2003 Posts: 5756 Location: West Valley City, Utah
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 4:14 pm Post subject: |
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On my dragster I put an Autometer head temp gauge in it so I had a good reference of temp. I tapped a location right above the plug in the fins. I have "normal" and "not normal" temp reference now. I put a second on in above another plug and am now giving my EFI computer a "coolant" temp for warmup reasons that seems to be working well for what i'm doing. _________________ Eric Allred
You have to remember something: Everybody pities the weak; Jealousy you have to earn. |
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esde Samba Member
Joined: October 20, 2007 Posts: 5971 Location: central rust belt
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:48 pm Post subject: |
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Here is where I am thinking about. I can machine out a small circle in the fins centered where I have the screw driver pointed, and it seems the head is pretty thick there. I will probably contact Roy before doing it, but it seems like a good spot.
any thoughts on this approach? |
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Eaallred Samba Member
Joined: May 18, 2003 Posts: 5756 Location: West Valley City, Utah
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 6:15 pm Post subject: |
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If the sender is at "cylinder height", it should be fine. The cylinder seals on the deck surface, not the sides. If you are going past cylinder height, I'm not sure i'd do it. _________________ Eric Allred
You have to remember something: Everybody pities the weak; Jealousy you have to earn. |
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DerekC Samba Member
Joined: April 05, 2014 Posts: 8 Location: Hawaii
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Posted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 11:00 pm Post subject: |
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tattooed_pariah wrote: |
maybe that was it, i found that googling this morning but it doesn't look familiar.. |
http://thesensorconnection.com/ |
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[email protected] Samba Member
Joined: August 15, 2002 Posts: 4394 Location: Brew City
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Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 7:28 am Post subject: |
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esde wrote: |
I'm understand what Eric is saying about between the valves being the most critical accurate temperature. If there's a way to get a stud mounted into that mass of the head that forms the chamber, just not the actual spark plug, is what I'm after. I think it would be pretty accurate, maybe a few degrees off from at the plug but close. In looking at some Mofoco heads, I have the idea that if I cleared a spot through the fins on the underside (above the push rood tubes) I could maybe tap into the head there. I guess it would be a matter of accurately drilling and tapping the hole, to hit the center of the area. The linked website has several senders that are available in 10mm ring, that would be perfect for what I'm thinking of. I'll post up a pic or two of what I'm proposing in a bit. SD |
I have been drilling and tapping one of the sheetmetal screw holes for head temp sensors for fuel inj engines for 14 years. Works very well. Never tried another way. _________________ Please "LIKE" us on facebook to see what we are working on.
https://www.facebook.com/mofoco?ref=ts&fref=ts
www.mofoco.com
Cylinder Head Reference Sheet |
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Stripped66 Samba Member
Joined: May 31, 2005 Posts: 3470 Location: Charleston, SC
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Posted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 8:07 am Post subject: |
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[email protected] wrote: |
I have been drilling and tapping one of the sheetmetal screw holes for head temp sensors for fuel inj engines for 14 years. Works very well. Never tried another way. |
There's a difference between telling the ECU that the engine is up to operating temperature (to transition off cold-start fuel enrichment) and monitoring CHT for tuning and/or diagnostic purposes. _________________
66brm wrote: |
Bodacious wrote: |
Why not just make a custom set of wires with a Y splice in them. Then you could just run one distributor. |
I don't think electrickery works that way |
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