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Alternate cylinder head temperature mounting ideas
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esde
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:53 am    Post subject: Alternate cylinder head temperature mounting ideas Reply with quote

I have a 600* vdo gauge in my car and while last changing out the plugs, for the first time I had a bear of a time getting the #3 plug through the sender ring and into the head with my hand jammed behind the carb and manifold. The ring would get caught up on the cylinder tin, or the plug threads, or wrapped around the socket, and I came very close to starting the plug crooked into the head as a result. I saw some aluminum on the first plug thread, stopped, and ran a chasing tap down the hole. In the end I stuck it into cylinder #4, figuring that something is better than nothing, and at least it's on the side known to run hot. But it got me wondering, surely there has got to be a better way?
Is there a better spot that could be drilled and tapped to more permanently install this ring? I have tried an upper center head stud and it does read low, I was thinking maybe one of the lower studs, or maybe there is a more ideal spot to drill and tap? A permanent stud could be installed to clamp the sender to, maybe where a second set of plugs is fitted for dual plug heads? Any thoughts?
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Cptn. Calzone
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 8:14 am    Post subject: alternate areas Reply with quote

I agree its a bitch to deal with ring and it can and will distort and leak or give a false reading.Some people have clipped the wires and jbwelded the wires themselves as close to the#3 plug with good results.In that same thread a few experts came forth and claimed it would never work.Ihave the ring in two seperate bus motors and will try the clipped wire method next time the motor is out as the ring is such a pain.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 9:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

DO NOT just clip those wires. If there is not a good electrical joint between the two different special alloy wires your temp readings will be inaccurate, if it works at all and JB Weld is an insulator. The ends of the two wires are typically welded or brazed together. The ring is just crimped over them. You can trim back the ring, but do not mess with its crimp area. (You could try to pry the whole ring off but that has a high probability of damaging the connection.) You can epoxy what's left where you want.

Last edited by jhoefer on Sat Apr 12, 2014 1:48 pm; edited 2 times in total
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Boolean
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 9:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Or just weld the ends together again. Done with acetylene/oxygen. Just dont cut the leads shorter than necessary, as this will affect accuracy. An inch or less is ok.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Under the plug is where it's at if you want a useful reading. That's as close to the valve seats as you're going to get, and that's the critical temp reading.

Get the valve seats too hot, and that's when they drop!

Anywhere else is just a reference number so you know when you're running hotter than normal. Which can work, as long as you know THAT is what it is and adjust your driving style accordingly to keep the temp where it is "normally". The actual number becomes useless at that point, just normal and not normal is what you are going by.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I drill a small diameter hole above and parallel to the spark-plug boss and sink the thermocouple end down about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch into the head.

Thermocouple stays in with or without the spark-plugs. CHT responds quicker.
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66brm wrote:
Bodacious wrote:
Why not just make a custom set of wires with a Y splice in them. Then you could just run one distributor.

I don't think electrickery works that way
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andy198712
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

would EGT be the fastest reacting? but i guess it wouldn't truly indicate head temp
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:33 pm    Post subject: tt Reply with quote

Stripped what holds the thermocouple in place?
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 12:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This was brought up sometime last year, and someone talked about a company that makes guages for ACVW aircraft use..

I cannot for the life of me remember the company now.. I was looking at one of their digital gauges that costs like $400 and had the ability to monitor four sensors, each sensor was like another $80..

anyone have any idea what i'm talking about or is my stupid question too vague? :/
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Boolean
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 1:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

These are some.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=cylinder%20temperature
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Boolean wrote:
These are some.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=cylinder%20temperature


maybe that was it, i found that googling this morning but it doesn't look familiar..
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Stripped66
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:18 pm    Post subject: Re: tt Reply with quote

Cptn. Calzone wrote:
Stripped what holds the thermocouple in place?


Currently, they are peened over. At some point I may use thermal epoxy to hold them in place, but peening the aluminum works fine.
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66brm wrote:
Bodacious wrote:
Why not just make a custom set of wires with a Y splice in them. Then you could just run one distributor.

I don't think electrickery works that way
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Stripped66
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tattooed_pariah wrote:
Boolean wrote:
These are some.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=cylinder%20temperature


maybe that was it, i found that googling this morning but it doesn't look familiar..


Check out MGL Avionics: http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/inpages/1105719.php

A bit cheaper than your estimate. You can pick up thermocouples from Dakota Digital. It's temp-compensated, easy to read (you can choose how you want the 4 channels displayed), and it's digital.
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66brm wrote:
Bodacious wrote:
Why not just make a custom set of wires with a Y splice in them. Then you could just run one distributor.

I don't think electrickery works that way


Last edited by Stripped66 on Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:24 pm; edited 1 time in total
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esde
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 2:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm understand what Eric is saying about between the valves being the most critical accurate temperature. If there's a way to get a stud mounted into that mass of the head that forms the chamber, just not the actual spark plug, is what I'm after. I think it would be pretty accurate, maybe a few degrees off from at the plug but close. In looking at some Mofoco heads, I have the idea that if I cleared a spot through the fins on the underside (above the push rood tubes) I could maybe tap into the head there. I guess it would be a matter of accurately drilling and tapping the hole, to hit the center of the area. The linked website has several senders that are available in 10mm ring, that would be perfect for what I'm thinking of. I'll post up a pic or two of what I'm proposing in a bit. SD
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 4:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

On my dragster I put an Autometer head temp gauge in it so I had a good reference of temp. I tapped a location right above the plug in the fins. I have "normal" and "not normal" temp reference now. I put a second on in above another plug and am now giving my EFI computer a "coolant" temp for warmup reasons that seems to be working well for what i'm doing.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is where I am thinking about. I can machine out a small circle in the fins centered where I have the screw driver pointed, and it seems the head is pretty thick there. I will probably contact Roy before doing it, but it seems like a good spot.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

any thoughts on this approach?
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If the sender is at "cylinder height", it should be fine. The cylinder seals on the deck surface, not the sides. If you are going past cylinder height, I'm not sure i'd do it.
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 12, 2014 11:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

tattooed_pariah wrote:
Boolean wrote:
These are some.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/search/search.php?s=cylinder%20temperature


maybe that was it, i found that googling this morning but it doesn't look familiar..


http://thesensorconnection.com/
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[email protected]
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

esde wrote:
I'm understand what Eric is saying about between the valves being the most critical accurate temperature. If there's a way to get a stud mounted into that mass of the head that forms the chamber, just not the actual spark plug, is what I'm after. I think it would be pretty accurate, maybe a few degrees off from at the plug but close. In looking at some Mofoco heads, I have the idea that if I cleared a spot through the fins on the underside (above the push rood tubes) I could maybe tap into the head there. I guess it would be a matter of accurately drilling and tapping the hole, to hit the center of the area. The linked website has several senders that are available in 10mm ring, that would be perfect for what I'm thinking of. I'll post up a pic or two of what I'm proposing in a bit. SD


I have been drilling and tapping one of the sheetmetal screw holes for head temp sensors for fuel inj engines for 14 years. Works very well. Never tried another way.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 14, 2014 8:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[email protected] wrote:

I have been drilling and tapping one of the sheetmetal screw holes for head temp sensors for fuel inj engines for 14 years. Works very well. Never tried another way.


There's a difference between telling the ECU that the engine is up to operating temperature (to transition off cold-start fuel enrichment) and monitoring CHT for tuning and/or diagnostic purposes.
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66brm wrote:
Bodacious wrote:
Why not just make a custom set of wires with a Y splice in them. Then you could just run one distributor.

I don't think electrickery works that way
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