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Wilburt Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2015 Posts: 3
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Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 6:09 pm Post subject: Oil Light |
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I just bought a Sand Rail and was going over everything. I am new at this so learning as I go. I just changed the oil and put in Rotella T 15w-45. Before the oil change I had no problems with the "oil light" that is wired in. I did a test yesterday around the block with no issues. It leaked a bit of oil last night, I'm learning about VW Type 1 Engines (1973) and will work that issue as well.
Anyway, I installed a new speedo cable and took it for a quick spin to test. Now my oil light is flickering/mostly constantly on. I know the oil level is correct. I am not sure what oil was previously in the engine. Any ideas what happened? |
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Dale M. Samba Member
Joined: April 12, 2006 Posts: 20388 Location: Just a tiny bit west of Yosemite Valley
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Posted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 6:54 pm Post subject: |
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Engine really wants plain 30W......With multi visc oil it can't maintain decent oil pressure because of worn bearings and internals..
Suggested reading of "oil typed and vw engines" in "stickies" in Engines & Performance section of forum ...
Dale _________________ “Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.
"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ... |
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Wilburt Samba Member
Joined: August 26, 2015 Posts: 3
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Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 4:00 am Post subject: |
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I read ten pages of it. Kinda confusing. People seem to recommend 20w-50, sae 30, 10w-30, and it goes on.
Since my light is coming on it assume I need to go thicker to increase pressure? Would that mean 20w-50 for me? Or should I try sae 30?
Who would have thought oil could cause so much trouble. I used to motorcycles and just buy the recommended oil and never worry about it. I guess this is a "joy" of old air cooled engines |
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CBFLbikerider Samba Member
Joined: August 04, 2014 Posts: 44 Location: NCentFL
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Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 5:47 am Post subject: |
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Oil is cheap (compared to a new engine.) Mostly depends on the heat as to where you live. I run 30 weight in mine, I live in FL where the temp rarely goes to freezing. |
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griffs68 Samba Member
Joined: August 01, 2015 Posts: 47 Location: Bakersfield, CA
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Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 8:17 am Post subject: |
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also depends on the sensor you have installed and what pressure it kicks the light. if you have blown rings and you are pushing alot of pressure into the heads with no sump it could be starving for oil. I switched from 20w50 to VR-1 straight 30 and it helped but my rings were so gone I was burning a ton of oil. Good luck to you |
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Vanapplebomb Samba Member
Joined: November 03, 2010 Posts: 5421 Location: Holland, MI
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Posted: Thu Aug 27, 2015 9:32 am Post subject: |
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The first ten pages of the oil sticky are pretty dated as far as good brands of oil for flat tappet cam/lifter engines. A lot has changed in the chemistry since then. VR1 for off road only is good, Brad Pen, Joe Gibbs driven hot rod oils, or pretty much anything with 1200ppm + of zinc/phosphorus will work well as a general rule of thumb. API SL or older oils are all pretty much good as well. API SM and SN oils...not so much. After SM, oils were no longer backwards compatible. This is due to a reduction in the zinc/phosphorus because phosphorus coats the catalytic converters and reduces their efficiency, and the EPA doesn't like that. Unfortunately the higher amount of zinc in older oils was excellent for flat taper cams and lifters. The zinc would plate out under pressure and became a sacrificial surface that would stuff off instead of the cam/lifter scuffing eachother badly. The phosphorus helped make a posphate surface on the iron that was tough and wear resistant. New oils, although better quality than ever, are not always right for older engines.
As for the weight, I would go 30 weight, or 40 if worn bearings. The pressure relief valves in the engine operate of a viscosity based system, so if you go with a heavy 50wt oil, you may find your oil temps are higher than with 30wt. Reasoning is that the engine heats up the oil until it is the viscosity is at the level the oil gets routed through the oil cooler. 50et oil has to be heated more to reach the same viscosity as 30wt. So save the 50wt for the racers who run looser clearances. There are other factors involved, such as oil pump size. To large of an oil pump is not a good thing. It tricks the engine into thinking that the viscosity is higher than it really is, thus, the oil temps settle at a slightly higher temp. Like I say, lots of factors, but that is the simple version. _________________ 1800 Type 4 Berrien 295
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=487021 |
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