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Kick down Connector T3 Auto
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gleason
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 1:54 pm    Post subject: Kick down Connector T3 Auto Reply with quote

Ok, I've done some searching but only found one reference to this part. It has several different names on parts lists, but it's basically just a dual male spade connector to unhook the power to the kick down solenoid on a FI Automatic. Connector with O-Ring, and coupling element on later VW/Audi. Discontinued in 1994. I need to find another one to replace it as you can see in picture. Not sure if I can rig a ferrule or something but I came to the experts for assistance.
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Rex lucy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 5:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

well pls tell me more about this part where it goes and function of why the o ring fitting. I'm somewhat about to delve into that area myself.
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 6:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

No advice on where to find one, unless it's used on something else; other VW cars used the transmission and maybe it's a more general part.

Looks like it's #18 on page 28/29 in this part book excerpt. Right click on "Group 3 - Transmission" on the page below and select "Save As..." to save to your local PC storage:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/type3_parts_book/

Then open it in Adobe and check out the two pages.

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003 927 113
Connecting piece

I think it's the connection external to the case, connecting to the pigtail of the kickdown solenoid inside the case. The o-ring keep fluid from leaking out, since this is either immersed in ATF or will get ATF sloshed on it.


Last edited by KTPhil on Tue Mar 03, 2015 10:26 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Rex lucy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 03, 2015 10:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Ktphil , I didn't know that info was on the samba. Doesn't look to be too hard to fabricate that part.
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gleason
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 10:57 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rex, let me know if you make one up. Not having good luck finding a survivor. Crying or Very sad
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Options:

I'm not sure of the length, but the OEM "T-1" connectors (male-to-male connector housed in clear plastic) might make a good starting point. If you molded the body in silicone it might work.

The T1 connectors are this type with one male spade on each end. You can usually find them in the classifieds:
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(Some of these are "empty" with no connectors, just the plastic. You want the metal parts inside, and would throw away the plastic sheath.)

Another thought is to make a 6-inch long pigtail with male spades on each end, and pot it into the case hole with silicone. Not removable but you can still disconnect it from either inside or outside.

In either case, it must be a type of silicone that will resist ATF, and you will want to provide a blob to act as a flange on both sides to keep it in place.

Or if you can make up a plaster mold from your old part, maybe you can make one of a stiffer plastic material you melt and add to the mold.

Keep in mind there are connectors on both ends merely as an aid to R&R. The function is just to connect the solenoid to the wire outside the case. Anything that can seal a pass-through wire will work in that place.
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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 9:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, all it is, is an insulated electrical splice. There is no ATF pressure at that location, so the two concerns are that it doesn't ground to the trans case, and it doesn't allow the ATF fluid to leak out. Another option would be to thoroughly clean both the trans hosing and the connector body it self so that there is no oily residual. Then take the pieces that you do have and use JB quick weld to glue the old part into place. I would use either brake clean or electrical contact cleaner (plastic safe) to clean the area, then glue it into place. As long as the old piece does not have any bare metal where it fits into the trans housing, you should be good to go.
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 04, 2015 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Google searches don't give up much.

Same tranny (or at least many parts including this one) was used on Audi Fox 1973-1976. Same PN (003927113) called a "coupling element."

Also might have been used in Passat ('74 - '77)
Bus ('68 - '79) (I have doubts... but maybe in non-USA markets)
Type 3/4/K70 ('68 - '74)
Dasher ('74 - '77)

Some call it "coupling piece."

Officially discontinued in 1994.

No help finding a part... if a local shop has a blown tranny or a junkyard with one of the above cars with an automatic, then you might harvest it.
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gleason
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 10:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Someone I know with a 3D printer said he may be able to make one, if I can get him dimensions. He said his plastic is good to about 18 degrees F. Wonder if that would work?
Laughing don't laugh, but I was almost thinking of using a valve stem off a rim. I got the 70 Red squareback running last night after it had been sitting since 1984, but I want to get my main one running. I need to get paint on it before summer!
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KTPhil Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 1:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Whatever you use has to withstand very hot ATF. I suspect the melting point of most printed plastics is too low.

But I like your ideas of finding an existing rubber part that can seal on its OD, and then you gut it and fish the wire through.
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MacLeod Willy
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 2:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I built one last summer. I machined it out of nylon that it was a force fit.
Drilled a hole through it and threaded it #10 with a nut on top. It stem of the machine screw will take a tube style push-on terminal

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Multi69s
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 4:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Willy,

I like your machined Kick down insulator, I also like your PVC governor spacer Very Happy . Did the bale lose its tension? Also are you running this trans in a rail? The cut down fill tube makes me suspect so.

Gleason, I also like your idea of a valve stem. As long as the OD is the right size for the trans, then all you have to worry about is sealing the ID. Especially if you use the type of stem that has a crush nut for sealing. As far as a 3D printed part, it would really depend on the type of medium used in the printing. I remember when 3D printers first came out and the medium was basically cornstarch. However newer printers use many different types now. You said that your buddies material was good to 18 degrees, was that a misprint? I would be more comfortable in the 200 degree range, but you would also need to have the part flexibility and strength to shove it into the hole. So the valve stem may be a better option. just thinking
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69 road Bug 2110
73 Squareback - 2L, T4, Automatic W/ AC
Gone, but many fond memories 69 Baja Bug 2010 - 5 Rib Bus Transaxle
Gone but not forgotten 72 Baja Bug 2010
My builds
T4 into Squareback http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=458944&highlight=
Auto Trans Rebuild http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=516066&highlight=
AC in Squareback https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...highlight=
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MacLeod Willy
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 06, 2015 8:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Multi,
Yea the governor bracket rotted off and I tried to find a new cover. Was as bad as trying to find the insulator

The dipstick is a Tecumseh lawnmower dipstick, but only to find out the rear seat is right over top of it. Design flaw on that idea.
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gleason
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2015 10:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Multi69s, "good to 18 degrees" should have read 180 degrees. I have to keep looking. If I could find a good one or dimensions, I'm sure I could have one machined up out of nylon or something.
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