Questions after 1st Drive on a Fresh 2276 just Installed

[jl_1303]

When I reexamined the pictures I took during the weld joints in the tunnel check, I think I might have missed the middle joint (the one underneath the E-brake cover). I think it was the shift rod that I saw, as opposed to the clutch cable tube. I think I would need to re-check again.

[jl_1303]

I have not done much to the engine lately, I have been merely backing off a full step and thinking...

I still have the clutch chatter...

And I have 1 question relating to my Carter electric fuel pump, which I mounted underneath the fuel tank in the front behind the right front wheel, I'd like to ask you guys.

My question is if for some reasons the fuel pump fails to work, would the carbs have enough vacuum to suck the fuel thru the pump and would still barely runs?

Appreciate if anyone have similar experiences would care to share their opinions.

[MURZI]

If the pump stops working, the engine won't run.
_________________
62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam

[Downtown Brown]

[quote="jl_1303"]I have not done much to the engine lately, I have been merely backing off a full step and thinking...

I still have the clutch chatter...
./quote] The worst clutch chatter I've had turned out to be a broken trans mount (separated) . I have the same sort of combination as you(depending on heads and cam) lots of torque - I won't drive mine without the rear support bar hooked up. As to clutch and pressure plates I REALLY like the Kennedy stage 1 and Copperhead combo . If I've had burned/glazing clutch it doesn't go away until I cleanup/replace - it just gets worse.

[jl_1303]

[MURZI]

Absolutely.... bad ground... clogged fuel filter, clogged tank"sock", can also cause low fuel pressure.

Surging???
_________________
62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam

[jl_1303]

[jl_1303]

[quote="Downtown Brown"]

[MURZI]

Back to the oil temp deal...
28 degrees of timing, 65 idles, about 43lbs hot at 3500. Correct?

So, that all looks good. Drop the oil viscosity down and switch to synthetic oil. At 40-45 lbs some engines will bypass the cooler. The lower viscosity will put you under that "switch" to "no oil for you, oil cooler" That should be good for 10-15 degrees. I had to do this on my 1835...dropped to 5w30 to get oil pressure to 40 at cruise.

Now, also know that it is not uncommon for a "new" engine to have slightly higher oil temps until you get about 1000 miles on it. A rebuilt engine with used components will not be as noticeable.

My 2276 used to run 230-245 when I beat on it...brand new. Now that I have about 1500 miles on it she runs about 200-220 in the heat. Ill take that.
_________________
62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam

[jl_1303]

[[email protected]]

Make sure your idle mixtures are set at max engine temps. If it's missing when it gets hot, either the mixture is wrong, or there is a vapor lock issue to address.
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[jl_1303]

[MURZI]

I wish you were closer... If shove my jet stack in your carbs..... Just to try. Depending on the gas in your area, you could be still lean in the main circuit. Try a 170 main if you can...just for kicks and giggles. My measured "165" put me at 12.6 AFR with e10 at 3200 and about 13.1-2 with non ethanol gas. That's about a 170 regular dell jet.
_________________
62 vert
2276
Tim’s welded heads
45 Dells
A1 sidewinder
Fk44 cam

[jl_1303]

[jl_1303]

Today, I tried to separate the distributor signal wire (green wire from the Unilite) from the ignition wires, in an effort to avoid cross-interference of the two. I warmed the car up to about 200-210F oil temp, the engine was idling at about 950 rpm. After the separating the wiring, I did not see much changes, except that that the oil would slowing climbed to 230F (maybe over a period of 15-20mins at idle). Then, the oil light would flicker.

I do not think the oil cooler is being activated to do its job here, as the oil temp climbs when the engine is at idle.

However, one thing I find pretty interesting is, in the period of 15-20 mins standing the car at idle, when I turned on the head lights, the idle speed would drop 70-80 rpm. In my limited experience, this is probably not a normal thing. Has anyone had this experience?

[jl_1303]

I think I found the problem. Well, at least one of the problems.

Today, after a short drive (about 10 min), when the oil temp started to climb beyond 180F, the idle speed was dropping to about 650-700 rpm from about 900-950 rpm, and it would climb back to about 900 rpm when the car is left stationery for 45 sec or so. However, when I took off after that, the idle speed would drop and sometimes stall.

I managed to drive home and sprayed some carb cleaner around the intake manifold of the 1st and 2nd cylinder side and the idle speed dropped instantly, whereas I did not notice any changes when I did that to the 3rd and 4th cylinder side. I think this is vacuum leak.

I am standing the car until it cools down and will try to tighten down the nuts to see if the leak can be stopped. Fingers crossed.

[jl_1303]

I remove the right side carb and discovered that the intake gasket was not covering the completely the manifold/head, hence the leak.

Cut another gasket out and re-installed the carb. Tested with the carb cleaner trick and believed it was fixed.

Warmed the car up and tried to re-adjust the idle speed and LBIs. At first (at about oil temp 180F), the process was going good. However, as the oil temp climbed to about 210F, the idle speed then dropped to about 680-700 rpm and eventually died. I then checked the fuel line (from the left carb to the right carb and was hung along the back of the fan shroud just above the doghouse cooler) and felt that the fuel line at the left side was pretty warm. I used the IR temp gun and obtained about 160F which I thought was warm and would potentially cause Vapour Locking. I also tried to touch the back of the fan shroud, it was hot to the touch.

Thereafter, I let the engine cool down and opened the oil relief valve (near the pulley) in an attempt to check if the spring was weak. When I took the cover off, the spring came down with a stream of oil, but the plunger did not come down with the spring. I tried using a screw driver to tap it out without success. I sprayed some WD40 and that did not help either. I thought the plunger must be stuck. I then close the cover with putting the spring back in. Started the engine and rev it a bit. Opened the cover again and the plunger came out. So the plunger was moved by the oil and should not be considered stuck. I tried cleaning the hole with a milk bottle brush with some WD40. Put the plunger back using the spring and when it was back up, it would not again come back down with the spring when the spring was removed. Tried the no spring trick once again and the plunger would come back down after revving the engine. Is this normal, or it is an issue?

As it was getting dark, I had to stop and would try to continue tomorrow.

[jl_1303]

One question I have, if the oil relief plunger is stuck and would not open, does it mean oil would not be bypassed. Hence, it should not be the cause of my high oil temp. Someone correct me if I am wrong.

[Slow 1200]

it could get stuck open and wouldn't come back up hence overheating the oil

[jl_1303]