1679 build questions

[Bob Brugge]

Ok, so I am posting this question here instead of starting a new thread. Maybe someone will know the answer. Buses use T4 engines, yes? T4 heads have the spread intake ports instead of the side by side intake ports that a T1 dp has, yes? Will T4 heads work on a T1 engine?
My thought is this...
On v8 engines you can sometimes take a head from a larger motor and put it on a smaller motor, ie chevy 400 heads on a 305 block, or ford 390 heads on a 360 engine. They typically breathe better in a stock configuration than the smaller heads.
Can I use Bus heads on a t1 engine and get better airflow? Or does this complicate things more than they need to be? Not sure what the heads are opened up to, so that could be an issue, but buses run 92 mm P&C stock, yes?
I am not considering bus heads for my 1679, but rather thinking about them for a race motor.
Last question, aluminum heads and high compression doesn't add up to me. Wont the heads warp like crazy? More compression = more heat = more cooling issues...? I know some of you guys run 10:1 or better, but can you do that with stock heads and will the motor support more comp? a 1679 with 9:1 compression for the street seems dicey to me, but I am still learning about these things with ac motors. Help me understand please
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Keep on Dubbin'!

[UK Luke 72]

Forget type 4 heads on a type 1.

Forget about aluminium heads warping or melting too... That's for the turbo/nitrous boys to worry about

[VWCOOL]

[Bob Brugge]

So I was digging around in my parts and found a cw 76mm crank. With my 88's that gives me 1849cc. Little bit better than 1679, but not much, just trying to build the most engine I can with what I have.
I have confusion regarding rod length and or spacer shims. So... If I understand things correctly, 76mm crank is only 7mm more than stock. Half of that is 3.5 mm or .15" wider per side than stock. the whole engine would be just about 1/4 inch wider over all than stock.
I have been reading everything I can find on here about different engine combo's and the information seems to be just about as convoluted as the Bible. Do this, don't do that, no wait, that guy doesn't know what he is talking about, do this instead, but wait, those guys only have half the info right, they forgot about X and Y...sigh
Anyone that can share their build would be super cool in my book.
I am going with this exact build because I have most of the parts and almost no budget. Read Cheapskate.
I have as 41 case
88mm jugs and slugs
76mm 8 dowel crank
two 34 ict's w/ manifolds and two old school oil bath air cleaners that might look pretty cool if I can get them cleaned up right
stock dp heads w/ stock valves
4 different flywheels of unknown but probably stock weight, all 4 dowels. I have a buddy that has the template to drill out 4 more holes and he has a lathe that he knows how to use to lighten the FW
Cylinder tin
Pea shooter and hide away exhaust systems both with 4 into 1 ...I think... headers 1 3/8" dia. I need to keep the stock heater boxes and maybe, just maybe I wont freeze my ass off next winter
110 cam equivalent, not sure specs yet, have to find out exactly what it is.
I have about 3 sets of stock 1.1:1 rockers
I need dog house shroud, oil cooler to go with, and carb linkage
I am thinking about learning to P&P with some junk heads that I have, not sure if I get more than about 1% increase in airflow or just bragging rights IF i do it right on my dp heads.
I understand that I need about .060 clearance between valves and pistons
Shooting for maybe 8:1 or 8.5:1 CR
Opening up my case is not an option, I know some of you will say go big or go home. Send me money and I will go big.
What I want to know is this... What weight FW should I go with? Stock or lightened?
Rockers...Is there a better option than 1.1:1?
Shorter rods or thicker cylinder shims?
How much of a PITA is .15" per side really going to be to line up tin?
I plan on going with stock clutch and stock PP.
I don't want to spin this motor up over maybe 6k, probably closer to 5k RPM
This assembly will be as well balanced as I can get it.
Thanks in advance for your patience and input.
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Keep on Dubbin'!

[modok]

If the pistons and cylinders and case and rods are STOCK dimension then it makes it easy, you just use spacers half the difference in stroke, and it will be darn close.
The other variables are case and rods, and they vary slightly, but only slightly.
it only gets complicated when you change the dimensions of every part, case, cylinders, pistons and rods of different length,which, is common to do

shifting at 5k rpm I would prefer a stock weight flywheel.
For high RPM a light flywheel is a good idea but for lower rpm it is more personal preference.

[Murt]

Reviving an old thread
Found a Stock AE Engine in very good condition, so far all good. End play good, and compression all good, case good externally.

I would like to eventually put it in my Bus ? I have got the following parts

New AA 88mm 'Machine in' thick wall P&C set
New Split screen Bus CSP single quiet pack Exhaust (1.5”/38mm for Heat and Dual Carbs)
New 26mm stock Schadek pump
Pair of Weber ICT34’s and linkage etc.

Stock Case Crank
Stock Cam
Stock Heads to be bored for 90.5/92 to suit the Thick wall 88’s
Stock Rockers
Stock Flywheel
Stock Cooling (Doghouse)
Stock tins

So a couple of questions ?
Assuming 52cc’s at the head, and achieving a deck height (0.051”/1.29mm) the CR will be 8.0, is this a reasonable engine/CR for the Bus ? I’m not looking for high speed or high revs. Any suggestions ? Is this a half decent combination ? how would you improve it slightly, bearing in mind I don’t have lots of $$$$$ lying around. What else will I need ?
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1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[Root_Werks]

Running a thick wall 88 in my bug. Deck height was a little high at .055 and head CC's are 50. I think it worked out to 8.3 static CR? Either way, engine has a ton of torque. Stock cam doesn't rev very high.

I've heard from some builders that a deck height of .045 is preferred. Hopefully someone will chime in.

At some point, I want to install a 74mm crank (because I want to). At that time I'll ensure my deck height is .045 and I have something closer to 8.5CR. I want torque and lots of. Don't care about the high revs.

All that said, I think you'd be pretty happy with your current setup.

-Dan
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When I set my timing, why do I flush, then take a pee?

[Murt]

Still getting parts together for this 1679 build.

And still after some advice. I have got the cash to go for a set of heads, and have the choice of either 3 options

1. CB Performance 044 'Specials' 90.5/92 with 40x35.5 (54-55cc's) expensive or
2. Empi GTV-2's 90.5/92 with 40x35.5's ( 54-55cc's) less expensive
3. Send off the stock heads to be machined to accept the 90.5 88's relatively cheap option, but my question is are the 40x35.5 valves too much ? or better to have for maybe a bigger build in the future

I wasn't going to split the case yet, but if I do end up going down that route are the cams below suitable contenders ?

Would an Engle 100/110 be the way to go ? or other options ? CB Performance Cheater Cam kit or SCAT C25 kit

Rest is as before
New AA 88mm 'Machine in' thick wall P&C set
New Split Screen Bus CSP single quiet pack Exhaust system (1.5”/38mm for Heat and Dual Carbs)
Carbs I have a set of dual 34ICT Weber's with linkage etc, and I also have a set of new genuine Weber IDF36's
New 26mm stock Schadek pump


Stock AE Case and Crank
Stock Cam (at the moment ?)
Stock Rockers (would 1.25.1 be useful ?)
Stock Flywheel
Stock Cooling (Doghouse)
Stock tins

This engine is for a bus, just want a solid reliable runner, not looking to set the world on fire, just a nice puller that will drive steady at 55-60mph, and maybe overtake a truck when needs be ?
_________________
1966 VW Beetle ‘Jules’
1967 Kombi Splitscreen ‘Barney’
2018 VW Caddy Maxi R Line
2017 Golf GTD saloon
2008 VW EOS 2.0 TFSi

[MuzzcoVW]

IMO for that size engine and the setup, those valves are way too big. You want torque in a bus and you will lose some with that setup. I would run 35.5 x 32. Also I'm not a fan of Engle cams, and don't think the 110 is good for a bus... or much anything anymore for that matter. There are better grinds are available now for cheap, look at CB Eagle grinds

[Brian_e]

DO NOT do 40x35 valves.

Aa500 35x32 heads with cleaned up bowls and a good valve job.
Cb2232 cam, 2 degrees advanced. Or a cb2280 if you like to lug it around and never rev it.
Your 36 IDF’s w/CB manifold and linkage kit.
8.8:1, .045 deck.

Make sure to properly prep your cylinders.
When the quiet pack rusts out, replace it with a VSpeed ss143.
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www.type-emotorsports.com

[Dusty1]

Zombie thread. I never get tired of that song, though.


Link

[Dusty1]

[MuzzcoVW]

[Dusty1]

Old guy here. I get confused sometimes. Head still hurts.

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[MuzzcoVW]