67 resto mod build

[pierre2]

Long time since I posted anything - not a ton of progress with life interruptions.

I have since assembled a different adjustable beam with all new bushings, brakes, lowered ball joints, drop spindles, tie rods etc.

The collecting of parts has continued as that has been easier to do than find time to work on it... I pretty much have everything needed now to make a nice car.

I am about to finally separate the body from the pan and fix all the sheet metal issues.

I'll post pics of that process as that unfolds.

[toxicavenger70]

I understand. I started on heater channel removal but life told me to back off for a bit. Keep trucking along.

[pierre2]

After much grief the body and pan seperated this weekend… had to cut the heads off 1/2 the bolts due to spinning nuts in the crusty channels.

Looking forward to pulling the pan out from under and getting started on replacing metal.

[pierre2]

[67rustavenger]

[pierre2]

Passenger side pan half changed.

Hope to have the other side done next week.

[pierre2]

Both sides in now and all the tar board residue scraped off. Going to seam seal the pan half weld joints and then wire wheel the rest and paint it all.

[Wily]

fantastic job

[pierre2]

[pierre2]

Slow progress but the motor tidy up is close to being ready.

[pierre2]

Small update but really excited as all the gross dirty work is done.

I have finished cutting out all the crusty nasty rust around the heater channels, inner fenders, rear bulkheads etc and obviously the heater channels as well.

I have the new channels bolted to the pan and am going to drop the body back down and start to weld them in this weekend after I get the door gaps correct.

I have all the surrounding repair panels as well to finish all the metal work now.

[pierre2]

Having an issue getting the front of the body to drop down onto the pan properly?

Back is aligned where it bolts to the rear under the seat as well as on top of the rear shock mounts.

I cut out the rust around where the front of the channels meet the front firewall but 2 things are happening:

1. The body does not seem to drop down fully onto the nap hat - up 5mm roughly and the door a pillars don't touch the channels? I can't see any instances of things physically being held up?

2. The bolts that go through the body tabs onto the beam are all the way at the back of the slots - had to pull hard on the body forward to get them in.

I guess the question is... when I welded in the bracing before I took the body off is it likely that with all the channel rust and floor rust maybe the lower door gaps have splayed open front to back a bit? Doors do not close nicely (sag) but nothing is welded yet.

[pierre2]

Took the drivers channel out and opened a few of the pan holes slightly to allow it to move inboard a bit more and things now seem to be lining up much better.

The doors are still not closing perfectly - better though - and I think that is partly because the A pillars are not held in the right position yet.

Will take more pics this weekend hopefully after they are welded in.

[pierre2]

Passenger door now closes with a nice clink instead of a nasty clunk... Took a while of fiddling around to tack the post in the right place to get this result.

Once closed the body line is nice and close and the door gap is consistent. This pic was taken with the car sitting on it's wheels.

Starting to work on the drivers side now. The cheap Klokkerholm inner fender patch fits almost perfectly without any editing? That seems unusual but I'll take it.

I will be so glad once this part is done - setting the door gaps properly was one of my biggest worries with cutting things this much apart.

[toxicavenger70]

Great update!

What exactly did you have to do to get the body lines to match up?

[pierre2]

[pierre2]

After so much aligning and tacking, dropping the car back onto wheels, open/closing door and being disappointed, then cutting tacks then re-adjusting and re-tacking for a few hours.... I think it is as good as it is going to get. I think the worn door pins are contributing to the slight bit of sag and will look at replacing those as well as adding a thin hinge shim on the lower hinge... Very frustrating process. I did move the latch down slightly on the pillar and it does close with an acceptable click now. The A pillar is also sitting right down on the heater channel now which it wasn't before.

The body line is off by 2-3mm approx. The trim makes it look a bit worse than it actually is.

Considering that when we got the car the door had to be bumped up about 1/2" just to get it to close this is significantly better.

The door gap on the front of the door is quite even vertically now.

[toxicavenger70]

Thanks for the info. And great work. Keep at it. I am sure you will get it where you want it.

[pierre2]

Finally found time to trim, fit and weld in the replacement Napolean hat end pieces of the firewall that attach to the heater channels. Just have to finish the same areas at the back of the heater channels where the air ducts are then the body can be bolted on for good.

[pierre2]

....So hard to get time these days to work on this but I managed to remove the rear bumper and driver rear fender.... Least favorite thing to do? Scraping off old undercoating. Favorite thing? Finding it way less rusty underneath than I expected

Just have to finish welding in the driver side panel that comes up from the rear pan area to the luggage area. Then the body can be bolted on for good.