Bus work trolley- pics and measurements

[zimblewinder]

Many people have asked me how to build one of these since I posted a pic whilst in search of some early split doglegs (still searching by the way… anyone??? ). So here’s a series of photos with the dimensions marked on them for anyone who’s game. I actually copied the idea from a design I saw in West Coast Restorations pictures (all kudos to them). I fabbed this up myself and while its not rocket science, the balance is light enough to still handle the bus while it’s up, and not drop on your head. I’ve since added a prop to frame to make sure this absolutely doesn’t happen. You should definitely do the same. (My dad said don’t worry about your head, just don’t stuff up the bus!- gotta love family ). In the photos it’s only in its 45degree position but I do use it rolled onto the side most of the time cos I figure that’s when the torsional stresses will be least on the body, of the two side positions.

All measurements are in mm cos I’m an Aussie and don’t understand feet and inches except for boats. Also these are German busses so lets do like zee Germans ho ho . The tubing is 50mm box section, bolts are stainless 8mm and the plates for the upright removable arms and top horizontal bar sliders are 3mm thick. The wheels are 285mm tall and I recommend you find a set with locks to stop the bus going where you don’t want it too while its upright.

The cross body sections are all cut to 45 degrees on the ends so it trues up with the removable arms. The 45 degree lower section is cut at the bottom to travel about 30mm above the ground so it doesn’t get hung up on things. The top of the same section is square so when the bus is rolled onto its side there is a small step to stop the bus wanting to roll back over by accident.

The high horizontal bar is angled to fit lightly against the window frame and under the drip rail of the bus. The sections out from the vertical posts have a 20mm slide slot cut into them so the horizontal bar is slide adjusted to the bus.

The chassis is held to the frame by 50mm width, 5mm thick angle iron sections cut to the same angle as the torsion and beam mounting bolt lines (sorry I didn’t get this measurement). I use the standard beam mounting bolts and the bolts for the rear torsion bar cover plates. The flat of the chassis rails is 50mm above the rectangular frame because I want to be able to get at all the chassis for painting. It also helps with the centre of gravity when rolling the bus over. The pics are pretty self explanatory. If you have any further questions drop me a pm.

Cheers

Oh by the way this only cost me about $40 to make and has proved to be invaluable. Hope it works well for you too.
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58Euro 23 343208 The Ultimate Zimblewinder Machine.
59 mango standard
Wanted- splash pan supports, og pressed bumper coach bolts, ivory blaupunkt knobs (early), armrest alloy strips, NOS door mechanism

[jerry.t]

good work, and thanks for the info.
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1957 euro oval
1958 standard euro bus


OGST

SBS #43



(14:39:50) Pintobean: i came out of the shower... cats were freaking out... i
69_Jim: I actually made girly noises as I was laying on the ground

VWSwap: I'm gonna post all over there...leave my DNA all over the place...make 'em bust out their black lights. Jerks.

[VWBobby]

I like that. I was going to build a set of ramps I could drag my bus up onto, but it looks like it would be a lot easier to tip it on its side like you have. I'll have to try this.
Thanks,
-Bobby