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roofline repairs continued...
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zimblewinder
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 6:24 am    Post subject: roofline repairs continued... Reply with quote

Well here's the next new challenge. Anyone have any tips about this repair before I make a start? The whole roofline is shot except for the final rear quarter.

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My plan
make a curve pattern out of card, stretch a sheet of metal prior to cutting out the curve, cut out a 50cm section of roofline at a time to match the card pattern, weld in new metal and then shrink with a shrinking disk to pull it down smoothe.

Any comments, especially from those who've done this before? How did you go about it? Thanks
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Last edited by zimblewinder on Sat Dec 18, 2004 5:54 am; edited 1 time in total
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TeamSpatula
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 6:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You mean you can't just glob silicone in there?
Smile
My '60 has that quality job from the PO...I'm planning to basically do what you described to fix it...cut & paste...
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Bongo
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No idea how I'd tackle that, and I don't envy you one little bit. Cab floor looks great tho'
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hazetguy
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

what about lead or brazing? maybe the heat would warp too much from brazing, but lead uses less heat, doesn't it? i have minimal experience with either of those techniques.
i am curious about this as well, since my 56 westy has some holes like this (although not as many and not for such long stretches).
i think cutting pasting may be difficult on the multiple contoured corners up front?
good luck, keep us posted. looks good so far.
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Rescue912
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 10:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The smaller holes you can fill by backing with a copper spoon and *ZOT* with a MIG. Grind it off and done - little or no filler.

In a pinch, aka: poor man's version, a piece of 1/2" copper water pipe flattened on one end and a (non-conducting) dowel in the other to hold it by works.

The bigger holes, cut and paste Smile
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Metalwizard
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 3:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Zim , Last time i had one that bad i clipped the front section of the roof. That might be a bit hard for you seeing where you are, unless i could scrounge enough donor metal to do the front. The side are no biggie do it in sections say 2 foot at a time. At the front you could stretch a pc then put a roll in it over a T dollie with a compatible roll of the roof line.
As Hazet said leading would work for alot of it, but thats still a dark art to me at this point, forget brazing, to much pain in the a$$. The copper thing works pretty good too. Later yell if i can help.
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Andrew
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 4:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, did you see that episode of Pimp My Ride? They had that same problem! You should check it out and see how to fix it.
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zimblewinder
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 4:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys, very solid answers. Considering the pitting in some places that didnt give with a spike, I figure its going to be another problem in the future if I dont get this right. I had good results with leading for filling welds before but backing it for some of the holes will be next to impossible and I fear missing thin metal somehow if I dont get the rust line out, same for the old copper block trick. Looks like cut and past for the moment.... hmmmm Ill keep you up to date. Cheers


Hey Andrew, sorry we dont get that here in Japan. What did they do? From what Ive heard of that show... could be the laugh I need after atempting this. Very Happy
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jeremyrockjock
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 4:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Wow Dale, Thats a tough area.
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 5:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think a roof donor would work best then you could just cut out the right part and weld away.

I know a guy that used fiberglass reinforced filler that has lasted 7 years so far and the bus is used year round. He did sandblast first to kill the rust than veri primer folowed by epoxy primer then fiberglass reinforced filler, primer, paint.
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Metalwizard
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Shocked Andrew don't make me Wiz Slap you, PMR was some wanna be shit, they are clueless.
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jeremyrockjock
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2004 6:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Andrew wrote:
Well, did you see that episode of Pimp My Ride? They had that same problem! You should check it out and see how to fix it.


Yeah just pop rivit some aluminum siding and slap on some bondo. Then put a pop out sign that says Chill right in the middle of the louvers so it blocks air to the engine.
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zimblewinder
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2004 2:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So what does it look like in there??? Shocked Shocked Shocked
left
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right
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airbox
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The First patch

Choose the incision
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zimblewinder
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2004 2:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cut a template for fabricating a skin graft

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find a suitable donor

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surgery and fitting the graft
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Ian
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 18, 2004 5:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Can't wait to see what you come up with for the patch job. That looks intense.
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zimblewinder
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 3:05 am    Post subject: Patchin Reply with quote

Well its taken me some time to get the front roofline done but now its over. Here's the work from the patch onward.
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after some chopping
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Sandblasted in there and splashed around buckets of rust converter then some fitting
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add some stiction
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and some more
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most of the other roofline holes on this side were easy to weld up

a grind and then sanding disc. The curve is perfect, undetectable to the touch or eye.
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a light spray of primer for the moment - no filler neccessary YEAY!!
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inside
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The Right hand side wasnt so nice.
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and the inside
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this one will need a skim. Maybe Ill get away with high build primer to lift it just a little along the weld top and left.
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The lip/overhang and inside the air box are next
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stay tooned Smile
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59 mango standard
Wanted- splash pan supports, og pressed bumper coach bolts, ivory blaupunkt knobs (early), armrest alloy strips, NOS door mechanism


Last edited by zimblewinder on Wed Apr 06, 2005 7:21 am; edited 1 time in total
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Bongo
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 3:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mmmm, nice job!
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Rescue912
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 6:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very nice. Great pix ...
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Metalwizard
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 6:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good job Dale. Keep it up. Very good fabbing you did there, take a bow for that one. Later
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Lind
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 06, 2005 8:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

how is the inside of the drip rail level area? I have seen that buses with rust like that often have issues with the hat channel inside the drip rail area.
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