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Tue Mar 08, 2022 12:58 pm

RockStock wrote: sgellis wrote: Was the fastener on end of fan shroud a flat head or hex head?
Should be a cheese head screw, not the hex head.

My unmolested June of 1955 Oval Sunroof has the same cheese head slotted screws holding the fan housing at each side. Not hex head bolts. My OG coil is held to the fan housing with hex head bolts.

Bill Bowman

Wed May 31, 2023 2:30 am

Hi all. What a great thread!
So looking for advice / opinions if I may.

I have a may/jun '55 car which had a '57 engine case in it, however this case had been built up using all the parts off the '55, I think. I guess it blew and they got a new case or whatever?

The car now has a completely different vintage speed motor in it, but I would like to build a '55 correct engine to go with the car if and when I sell it. Well, thats my excuse, really I just want to do it :)

Here are the parts I have on the engine... if folks could confirm it would be a great help.

tinware correct for may/jun '55, fan-shroud has banana on rear which is ok?

Distributor VJU4BR8 with 4L stamp... so April '55

correct generator pulley

Correct regulator with May '55 5L stamp

Correct generator with May '55 5L stamp

incorrect crank pulley.... although there seems to be debate on this???

correct carb stand? again there seems to be some debate? Please not the nasty distributor is only there to stop things dropping in the hole!

Is this the correct carb??? seems to be...

correct wavy top fuel pump

I need a coil bracket with hole in it... and potentially a bottom crank pulley.

Sooo... my big question is, I have a case for all this, but its from December '54. Am I wasting my time using a case that is some 5 months out given that the existing case is 24 months out the other direction??

Am I right in thinking there used to be a case exchange thread??? cant seem to find it.

thanks!!!!

Wed May 31, 2023 5:08 am

I have a June of '55 production Sunroof Beetle, and, yes as far as I can see, everything you have posted looks correct for what you're trying to do. I think you'd be wrong to use the earlier case "if" you already had another more correct dated crankcase lying about. But if you don't then hell yes, use the late 54 engine case and put all the 55 parts on it. If somebody is that anal retentive because you don't have the right case, tell him to f-off and walk away. Sounds like you've done the best you can, now enjoy driving the car and that should be your ultimate reward. Plus you have a pretty correct engine...

Bill Bowman

Wed May 31, 2023 5:40 am

BulliBill wrote: I have a June of '55 production Sunroof Beetle, and, yes as far as I can see, everything you have posted looks correct for what you're trying to do. I think you'd be wrong to use the earlier case "if" you already had another more correct dated crankcase lying about. But if you don't then hell yes, use the late 54 engine case and put all the 55 parts on it. If somebody is that anal retentive because you don't have the right case, tell him to f-off and walk away. Sounds like you've done the best you can, now enjoy driving the car and that should be your ultimate reward. Plus you have a pretty correct engine...

Bill Bowman

absolutely! I am just going to seal all the parts and store I think... and if a case turns up then all good. re the bottom pulley? ok or change to thin lip?

Wed May 31, 2023 7:28 am

I just went down and double-checked, and my original crankshaft pulley looks like your pulley with the "curled" lip.

I imagine that there are probably photos of my engine and that crankshaft pulley in my photo gallery somewhere. Try to ignore the later fuel pump on my engine, the original acted up on the "Return To The Fatherland" driving tour to/from Europe back in 1999 so I pulled over and installed my spare NOS pump on and it is been there for 24 years now. One of these days I'll rebuild the original pump and put it back on.

Bill

Wed May 31, 2023 10:48 am

pig-pen wrote:
Sooo... my big question is, I have a case for all this, but its from December '54. Am I wasting my time using a case that is some 5 months out given that the existing case is 24 months out the other direction??

The issue with the earlier case, is that the oil filler does not have a drilled hole for the later style filler. As far as I know, the last engine to have the early style filler would be March 55. You can drill and tap the case because it should have the casting where the filler would attach.

@BulliBill, You really should spend time photographing your car so that it can be documented in its original form for others. It would be very valuable to folks wanting to restore to factory spec. I don't think I've seen a picture of the engine.

Thu Jun 01, 2023 4:03 am

lardawge wrote:
The issue with the earlier case, is that the oil filler does not have a drilled hole for the later style filler. As far as I know, the last engine to have the early style filler would be March 55. You can drill and tap the case because it should have the casting where the filler would attach.

Excellent Info! thank you.

Sun Oct 08, 2023 11:33 am

30hp front tin…when was the change?
1 tab & 2 tab
Which is the earlier version? 1 tab?
1 tab seen on a May 56 engine.

And did Barndoor front tin have the lhs hole for the fuel pipe, even though it was not needed as the tank is in the engine bay? (Update: apparently so)

Sun Oct 08, 2023 11:37 am

Oil coolers
25hp (silver with a curved top) into 30hp (black with a flat top)…when was the changeover?

Silver curved version used at least until May 55?

Sun Oct 08, 2023 1:25 pm

BulliBill wrote: I just went down and double-checked, and my original crankshaft pulley looks like your pulley with the "curled" lip.

I imagine that there are probably photos of my engine and that crankshaft pulley in my photo gallery somewhere. Try to ignore the later fuel pump on my engine, the original acted up on the "Return To The Fatherland" driving tour to/from Europe back in 1999 so I pulled over and installed my spare NOS pump on and it is been there for 24 years now. One of these days I'll rebuild the original pump and put it back on.

Bill

Update: I finally did a full rebuild of the original fuel pump this week for my '55 Sunroof "Martha" that was last on my car in 1999 during the "Return To The Fatherland Tour". After a complete disassembly and cleaning in a bucket of carb cleaner, and using a NOS EFFBE brand fuel pump rebuild kit including new fiber valves and springs, all NOS paper gaskets, etc., as well as a new W.W. nitrile pump diaphragm instead of the NOS EFFBE pump diaphragm, I re-assembled it using my VW dealership diaphragm depth setting Special Service tool #VW328. It is now ready for action and stored under the '55's rear seat for future use. I see no sense of urgency in wasting the formerly NOS later 36bhp pump which is still working beautifully on the engine. If someone needs to see the car's original fuel pump, it's right there onboard...

Bill Bowman

Mon Oct 09, 2023 9:04 am

I just put a newly rebuilt fuel pump on my motor. Good reference you have there with the serial number. Mine is slightly higher number and does not have the plug for the spring on the side, but it has the cast boss. I am calling it good enough.

Works perfectly!

Wed Dec 13, 2023 3:45 am

I thought it would be fun to document me assembling a stock 36hp bus engine based on a 14 May 1954 industrial motor (122-0378), and share it with guys on this thread who are also sick with correct 30hp engine detail!

The target is to dress it factory-correctly for my 9th February 1955 built Barndoor bus.

I will try to use original parts, original paint tinware, original fixings…and to get all of the original details right for Feb 55. With my very limited engine knowledge, I will not be pulling the long black apart - I am working on the assumption that this 122- engine has low operating hours.

I did buy an 02 June 54 bus engine 20-0804837 which looked in good order and that I was hoping to just plug straight in. Alas I discovered the flywheel had come loose at some point. This has damaged the crank end (oval used dowel pin holes, and uneven surface), as well as the flywheel. I wonder if there is a straight-forward solution here? I have a good used replacement crank.

I also have a second (seized) 17 Jan 55 122-industrial motor (122-07101) which has been good for reference, and yielded some relevant parts.

The original engine for my bus was 20-974182. If anyone out there has a block 20-97****, please get in touch.

I have a bare short block 20-994202 (Feb 55) which I may rebuild at some point.

Comments (errors, advice, and especially detail/date minutiae etc) welcomed…
And if you have a very original Feb 55 engine, please post up a picture or two.

Wed Dec 13, 2023 4:00 am

Here is the May 1954 industrial motor (122-0378) as it arrived to me:

-Empty case generator
-Thin lip top pulley
-No heat exchangers
-Weird heavy-duty flywheel and nut
-Caged-back fan housing with the 122-/Made in Germany tags
-Early 3-bolt two-piece side tin

I stripped the engine of its tinware.

I disposed of the weird flywheel, and located the correct 25/30hp flywheel (180mm, 109 teeth, 4x6mm dowel pin holes) and nut. Remembering the paper flywheel gasket and using Wolfsburg West replacement dowel pins, this was torqued to 217lbs/ft. Rightly or wrongly, I chose not to disturb the blue main oil seal, going with this was probably the factory (quality) installed item with low operating hours…

The oil cooler is still the silver 25hp version, with the curved top.
My Feb 55 122- engine has this too, so it will stay.

You can see the homemade flywheel nut in this picture.

Wed Dec 13, 2023 11:59 am

Original pink Beru spark plugs…

Replaced with new Bosch Supers. 0.6mm gap.

The hole (with the wire mesh insert) in the manifold attachment area on the right there is a ‘54 only thing, apparently?

Wed Dec 13, 2023 12:03 pm

I have a selection of original VW dated Oil Pressure Switches
See how only two retain their washer

27mm, M10x1 thread btw.
I chose the best one, NOS, 11/58, to replace the odd port that was installed:

(Did you know these have an adjustment screw beneath the wiring fixing screw?)

Wed Dec 13, 2023 2:29 pm

Bus-only VJ4 BR8 distributor.

A distributor on a Feb 55 engine would have the wire clips (not the solid clips).
I can’t locate a date code like the one in pig-pen’s post above^^.

Bosch cap:

Bosch rotor arm:

Bosch points:

Bosch ZK029/62Z condenser, date code 11L (Nov 55):

10mm Kamax clamp bolt:

Dead cute NOS Bosch points box:

So these will get installed.

Looks like a 0.45mm points gap or a 47 degree dwell angle is the way to go.

Wed Dec 13, 2023 5:10 pm

I've seen some distributors with a super light date code stamping or none at all.

I think they were sloppy about it.

My 2/55 Bus has a 1/55 distributor with a stamp.
It's not original but 1/55 seemed like a good possibility.
It has wire clips as well and I agree with you this is correct.

Wed Dec 13, 2023 6:16 pm

Thank you Everett, good stuff.
Is it stamped in the same area as pig-pen’s?

I can only see a ‘1’ higher up

Should be below the clip there

Wed Dec 13, 2023 6:26 pm

I am re-using the fuel pump that came with this May 54 122- engine.
It is the correct version with the hump top and the large slotted screw on the lower side.
At present I have left it untouched apart from an external clean.

The screw - deleted around Sept 55?
Discussed on p13
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...;start=240

Serial number 1125571:

The fuel pipe (pump outlet>carb) on this 122- engine is painted black. They should be copper coloured, right?

Update from p23:
nlorntson wrote: It should be copper coated steel

Wed Dec 13, 2023 10:05 pm

RockStock wrote: Thank you Everett, good stuff.
Is it stamped in the same area as pig-pen’s?

I can only see a ‘1’ higher up

Should be below the clip there

Yes, it's below or close to the clip that faces the carburetor on a bunch of ones I checked (mostly Beetle)

So below the other clip in the photo above