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Wed Oct 24, 2007 3:57 pm

I used Permatex Aviation Form-a-gasket. :D

Fri Nov 02, 2007 6:29 pm

What consistency does Curil K2 cure to? I have some that I tested and it has been on for a week and still feels like runny peanut butter. Hondabond is a semi-hardening and feels like silly putty when cured. Did I get bad Curil K2 or is it supposed to always be just like it comes out of the tube?

Thu Nov 08, 2007 10:40 am

This subject is hillarious almost as much fun as whats the best oil to use.

I've seen shops that used nothing but Gaskacinch for well over 30 years ..... I've seen shops use Aviation permatex and just for the record it cleans up easy with a laquer thinner rag..... I've see another shop use nothing but red high temp silicone for well over 25 years .... Then theres the motorcylce glues like Yo mama bond.. The choices are endless ..I used Hylomar on Boeing 727s, MD80s and 757s aircraft engines... These run real hot was developed by Rolls Royce is that good enough????

Curil has snob appeal soes you can schmooze with the Porsche pricks........... The funny post abot what was popular in the 60s and 70s gave me a tickle.... Me ????????

I'll continue to use what I've always used Aviation Permatex, but I do used red silicone under the cylinders and lower head washers and I butter the oil cooler seals with Gaskacinch.... As an old licensed aircraft mechanic I got a chuckle out of the old silk thread and grease trick but if you've ever seen the massive sealing areas on a Continental or Lycoming air cooled engine you'd understand..

Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:36 am

ok because in europe the things are little different and most of the products you refer to they dont import them or have diferent names and dont know what exactly to ask i would like to make a description of one gasket cement i find and tell me if it will work..

Quote:
Duro stick Gasket cement

Properties : Genuie shellac reinforced with resins offering unique resistance to diesel oil,gasoline, mineral or synthetic oils.It shows high adhesion power and is highly to temperature fluctuation's

Applications : is suitable for sealing seam pores in metal petroleum tanks.it can be used on any metal fuel tank which has been rusted inside
it exhibits superior sealing properties compared to normal paints(gloss finish paints)a nd also for sealing any metal surface witch comes in contact with gasoline, dieasel, oil, flange, gasket and any kind of thread.

USE : use only on dust and rust free surfaces. Apply 1 or 2 coats of shellac allow first coat to dry for one hour before applying the second coat.
use the special brushed on the cup fo the container

Technical information :
* Colour : honey brown
* Resistance to temperature : from -20 c to + 110 c (-4 F to 230 F )1
* Application temperature : +4 c to 45 c ( 40 f to 113 f )
* Dilute only with alcohol

so what you think?? is ok for aircooled engine aplication??

Wed Nov 21, 2007 3:49 pm

I dont think that it has quite enough of a temp resistance. around here -4F isn't all that cold and 230 is only like 30 degrees higher than operating temp.

Thu Nov 22, 2007 10:29 am

thanks :)

Fri Feb 15, 2008 12:49 am

Dose no one seal the cases DRY any more???
I have been doing alot of reading lately and the one thing regarding this issue that seamed paramount was that VW designed the case halves to be mated perfectly and go together dry.
Also there is great concern with bits and chuckend of you sealent expanding during torqueing procedures and getting to the inside of the case then plugging oil galleys.

So no one assembles dry?

Fri Feb 15, 2008 1:06 pm

Only if you like leaks.

Fri Feb 15, 2008 1:34 pm

Wierd, must use sealent?!? huh?
so I just split my 1600 SP and there is no residue from any sealant! no discoloration, Nothing! And I am pretty sure I am the first one to get inside the case since the factory.
now what that tells me is the factory did it dry, and mine never leaked, the only oil that ever came off the engine is when I missed the filler tube during an oil chage. and the only oil to come out of it was when I draind it for the oil changes.
So has anyone put and engine back together dry in recent years? Or is this something that well lay to rest with the old VW factory workers?
anyway, sounds like there is alot to choose from for sealent...

Fri Feb 15, 2008 3:49 pm

You can assemble them with out sealant when the case is new or has no defects. The problem was that in the past many people split the cases with a hammer and screwdriver and gouged them. Anyways a very thin coat of sealant is worth the risk of tearing the entire motor down again to fix a leak.

Sat Feb 16, 2008 6:58 pm

Jimmy111 wrote: You can assemble them with out sealant when the case is new or has no defects.

You can, but the current factory practice is to use a non-hardening sealant that looks and feels suspiciously like Hylomar on the joint.

Sat Feb 16, 2008 7:03 pm

GeorgeL wrote: ...looks and feels suspiciously like Hylomar on the joint.

That's the good stuff. :wink:

I only have a smige left, I'd buy more but it's expensive now. Permatex isn't licenced to produce it anymore, it seems.

Sun Feb 17, 2008 12:58 pm

miniman82 wrote: GeorgeL wrote: ...looks and feels suspiciously like Hylomar on the joint.

That's the good stuff. :wink:

I only have a smige left, I'd buy more but it's expensive now. Permatex isn't licenced to produce it anymore, it seems.

Go to a Harley dealer, ask the tattooed guy behind the counter for part number 99653-85. Not as cheap as the Permatex version, but you don't use all that much.

Sun Feb 17, 2008 5:26 pm

Last time I called the Harley dealer in Fresno, they had no clue what I was even talking about, till I quoted them a part number out of their own catalog. :roll: Then they tell me they don't have it in stock, but if they special order it for $30 a tube, I can pick it up in 2 weeks. No thanks pal, I'll find an alternative.

Speaking of which, I used Loctite flange sealent (510, or something) on my Corvair case, I'll post back when I know it's leak free. :wink:

Sun Feb 17, 2008 9:16 pm

miniman82 wrote: Last time I called the Harley dealer in Fresno, they had no clue what I was even talking about, till I quoted them a part number out of their own catalog. :roll: Then they tell me they don't have it in stock, but if they special order it for $30 a tube, I can pick it up in 2 weeks. No thanks pal, I'll find an alternative.

Last tube I got, at Glendale Harley Davidson, ran about 10 bucks. I think the Fresno Harley folks didn't want to bother ordering it for you and quoted a high price to get rid of you. Some of the Harley Boutiques are like that unless you ride in on your FLHTXYZLSMFT.

Sun Aug 03, 2008 6:43 pm

loctite 518

Mon Sep 08, 2008 6:52 pm

having been out of VWs for about 15 years. I remember Bernie Burgman machining the case for a seal. Is this still around or was it a flop. I think it would be the best way to seal the case.

Tim

Mon Sep 29, 2008 1:41 pm

Harbor Freight carries Hylomar Blue. Very Cheap.

Tue Sep 30, 2008 6:18 pm

HondaBond and Ultra-Flange do the trick! \:D/

Tue Oct 21, 2008 12:43 pm

I was a VW engine builder for 13 years. Built everything from bone stock 40 hp engines to turbo injection strokers to all out off road race engines. When I first started, I used Gasgasinch and it worked ok. But eventually I started using Ultra Grey silicone and it's worked great. I've had no problems with it whatsoever and totally recommend it.