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Sat Jan 24, 2009 11:51 am

slafa wrote: Obviously many here speak a language neither I nor my son are familiar with...YET but if the purists don't want newbies then they are very short sighted because unless I am mistaken none of them came out of the womb with a Hemmings in one hand and a wrench in the other.

Don't worry, nobody in this Forum wants to discourage "newbies" and there are also very few "purists" here. The trouble with the "purist" title is that very few who are so labelled, would recognise themselves as such.

However that doesn't stop some Ghia regulars having strong opinions...and expressing them. Most wouldn't want to change that...it makes for a healthy exchange of views.

You'll find where we all agree is the acknowledgement of quality work in the spirit of a coachbuilt classic...so post away.

I'm sure we're all going to enjoy the ride. :wink:

Sat Jan 24, 2009 12:27 pm

Thanks John!

I love this site and look forward to learning more about the car I fell in love with as a kid. I also look forward to differing opinions as to ghia modification (I love stock as well) since what we are starting with here is already hacked.

I really appreciate any input or criticism since that is the fastest way to learn something new.

Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:24 pm

werka wrote: shok wrote: I know it will never be correctly restored and with the bondo and stuff it might actually gain value if its turned into something cool and head turning, ...

I would doubt that it would be worth more than a restored ghia. No offense to this thread, but a lot of these don't end up being completed, and trying to sell a ghia that has been "hacked" you won't get your money out of it. There are a lot of purist on this forum, who don't like these. I think a lot due to them not being done properly (like my old one was that should have had additional supports).
well my point is it will never be restored, so what has more value, an unoriginal car with bondo and fiberglass under the semi nice paint, or a car in that condition that has a nice head turning mod? to put another way all else being equal on a crappy car with nice paint, does a fairly nice speedster mod add to its price?
i guess it doesn't matter since i don't mess with VWs to make money :)

Sat Jan 24, 2009 1:37 pm

my ghia is about the same yellow color as the top one in that list, ahhh the temptation.
now i'm planning cuts in my head and how i would do the mod in a way that would also be somewhat reversible for a future owner assuming he knows how to weld.
slafa wrote: ok, I get it shok you have the same bug (pun not intended) i do, here are a few builds I have been drooling over.

Sat Jan 24, 2009 5:38 pm

Shok, if you want a roadster/speedster without bastardizing your ghia there is one available on ebay right now at about $2000, that way you can mod to your hearts content without all the guilt and acrimony you would no doubt incur by blaspheming and decapitating your perfectly good (but bondo crappy) coupe...

Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:40 pm

yeh no way i have that money right now. if i do the mod to the bondo mobile i'll plan it out, basically any mod i do to any of my cars i always think of how can it be reversed if wanted.
maybe its because of my software background, any changes you make in a new version you think of how you can rollback to a previous version if needed.

Sat Jan 24, 2009 9:41 pm

His already had the top lopped off by the previous owner.

Sun Jan 25, 2009 1:42 pm

yeh i know.

Sun Jan 25, 2009 1:57 pm

Werka and shok
This is the Scott Sain Ghia that I believe was built by KCW in Grand Junction CO. I think this is really the closest thing to what I am shooting for. He now has fuchs on it and a sidewinder exhaust which enhances the clean look. Now imagine the door lines gone...ultra clean work of art

Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:01 pm

i think thats pretty much what i would shoot for, except maybe the first iteration would have a full windshield. I have time to think and plan since the garage is filled with a type 3 i'm parting out, once its out of the way I can get to work on the project.
And John Kelly, I'd like some of that advice on welding the doors, I'm not sure if thats the route I'll take for sure but your info might help with the decision.

Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:22 pm

If you simply close the doors and start welding up the gap, you will have major shrinkage to deal with which will require more filler than you might want to use. Filler can shrink over time and the door lines may show in certain light conditions. Putting 1/8" X 1/2" flat bar inside the gap to absorb heat would help, but you would still have shrinkage. The flat bar would need to be bent and ground to fit.

You could cut the door skin off of the door frame, then make pieces of metal that bridge from the door to the body. This would be best done by putting the welds where you can reach them from both sides of the metal for metal finishing.

Since welds shrink (thicken the metal slightly), you need to be able to stretch and smooth the metal afterwards. After metal finishing, you could box in the inner door area with metal that is skip welded... maybe inch long welds every few inches. Then seal the seams. If you put some structure inside before doing the inner shell, it would help with crash worthiness and stiffness.

If you go to the trouble of learning to metal finish, you will be able to do custom metal work that will last for decades. There is more about this stuff in my video shorts on youtube:

http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=GullWingInn&view=videos

Using something as a flow strip to show how the panels flow together is very helpful when doing a project like this. I show a flow strip in this album:

http://allshops.org/cgi-bin/community/communityalbums.cgi?action=openalbum&albumid=9980138836765

Let me know if you have any questions.

John www.ghiaspecialties.com

Mon Jan 26, 2009 2:27 pm

Thanks for the links and info, I've already seen some of your vids on youtube, just didnt put 2 and 2 together and know you were the same guy.

I've been practicing metal work for a little while and try to always get the metal right on a car, if i fill the seams on the doors that will be critical.

I'm also thinking of stitching something like this up:
http://www.worlduph.com/Miata/tonneau.JPG

Mon Jan 26, 2009 3:08 pm

What is ultimately cool and important is another one is saved to drive some more. Have fun...post new pics as you go along since we are all like VWholics and need to see progress... 8)

Mon Jan 26, 2009 3:34 pm

yeh if i do it i'll post pics, even if its not complete, if its driveable i'll post pics. if i encounter anything that might help others i'll post pics and explanations. if the pics go in the abortion thread then i'll have made my place in history!

but yeh this thing will stay on the road, i'm pretty sure it was given up on at some point and sat. so while i'm not a big fan of how it was repaired, it was probably saved from the junkyard.

Mon Jan 26, 2009 3:48 pm

Thanks Mike I plan on posting as we go because half the fun is sharing the process, I am loving watching others ideas develop.
Thanks to John Kelly for the info as well I am really leaning that direction. My dad used to custom in the 50s back when they used asbestos to keep the metal from warping, I still have all his old metalworking files and stuff from those days (in a box in storage I think/hope)

Shok I really like that toneau cover, I figure you are eventually going to need something like that. Just got off the slopes, a foot and a half new powder today at Sundance...whoopee

Tue Feb 10, 2009 1:36 pm

A couple of pics to give an idea of what I am after on this car. Just purchased the baseball seats and roll hoops out of an audi tt. Rather than the Nimbus grey that I mocked up in the cartoon I believe we will shoot for the concrete grey in the audi photo to better hide any imperfections in contour as this car is bound to have plenty of mud in it :(

I know,I know, but its not a restoration so I am not committed to metal finishing all the damage on this car. We will be replacing all rust panels.

The seats and roll hoops I just picked up

color combination I am looking at

Tue Feb 10, 2009 2:10 pm

so start cutting :)

Tue Feb 10, 2009 3:20 pm

Patience Shok! :D I am merely the artist ( stevenleeadams.com ) for this endeavor, won't be touching the body until the suspension looks right and the wheels dont rub...then its body off time. 8)

Tue Feb 10, 2009 5:01 pm

Nice project. Have fun with the build. Your pics show an Empi master cylinder. :shock: Empi products have been either loved or hated around here. Just make sure it's not the weak link in your brake system.

What are you thinking about for an engine?

Here are a few pics I have taken on the covers;

The owner of this car is on Samba. I forgot his name.

Tue Feb 10, 2009 5:27 pm

Thanks for the heads up 70coupyel, do you have a suggestion for the master cylinder? Don't want any weak links (especially brakes) and I have noticed on many a forum (unfortunately after purchase) that Empi stuff has a bad rep.

As for the engine its an 1835 and was a lot of fun in the car before it had the engine fire. I am not an engine guy although its my 17 year olds forte, any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

I like the pics of that cover and I figure with something like that I can get several more months of driving out of it here in Utah.