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Tue Oct 09, 2012 5:55 pm

I have a AAZ in an 82. The problem was after the initial glowplug cycle, the light went out but I still wasn't getting 12 volts to my fuel cutoff solenoid. I couldn't figure it out, the relay was working fine, all the wires were correct. For the short term I hooked up a toggle switch to give power to the solenoid. this worked fine, but the nagging question was persistent. Then I remembered that since I haven't changed the switch on this relatively new to me vehicle I "should." A Couple days ago I replaced the ign. switch and found that I didn't need my toggle switch any more. That made me a happy camper.

Sun Jan 27, 2013 6:29 pm

This thread is also valid for a 99 Cabrio! I have been going crazy trying to figure out why my newly aquitred Cabrio lights have been going off and on randomly, wipers quit working etc etc, :idea: light shined on Marble head! De Ja Vu... Ignition switch is the same as one I changed on my vanagon a few years ago

Sat Aug 01, 2020 2:52 pm

Sitting around on a lazy afternoon in camp I thought I'd pull the new ignition switch out of the parts box and go about installing it.

A few observations:

1) Thanks Ben for an outstanding write-up on removing these dash and replacing the switch!
2) No Vanagon should ever be stranded due to a poor ignition switch. There are several possible easy fixes that can be done from the comfort of the driver's seat. The simplest being: remove two Phillips screws securing the steering column plastic shroud > pull the plug from the ignition switch > plug in a new ignition switch and turn it with flathead screwdriver. That can easily be done in less than five minutes.
3) While it may not be necessary to preemptively replace the ignition switch, it's not a bad idea to take a look to see if it appears damaged.

In my van's case, the existing switch looked brand new and said "Germany" on it so I reinstalled it and put the new switch back in the parts box.

Original switch on the right, replacement from GW on the left...

Remove the plastic steering column cover, pull this plug, jump the connections or install a new switch and you'll be back on your way. No stranding necessary...

It's a long thread, some good posts (in addition to Ben's)...

gears wrote: Thanks a million for the help, Ben. Due to your clear photo tutorial, it took me about 30 minutes to change my ignition switch instead of probably a couple hours of head scratching. Great stuff.

?Waldo? wrote: I find preemptive changing of the ignition switch entirely unnecessary. A failed one would never leave me stranded. 10 minutes and 2 paperclips (or similar) later I'd be motoring on even with a completely dead switch.

A likely gumption trap is attempting to remove the lock housing w/out the key in the ignition (the steering lock will keep the housing from coming off of the steering column.

levi wrote: It's been several years since I've had to replace the Ign. switch, but today I needed to.
Pulled out the new one from my box of extras, and started in.

Stymied! What?

This little bastard doesn't want to slide off, and after messing with it for awhile I decided that in the dark and cold wind was not the time to finish it.

Pic taken from Ben's site.

Yes, the allen bolt on the left that anchors it is out, and I splayed it out a little, but it hangs on something.

Thu Aug 20, 2020 10:38 pm

Ha! So a few weeks after I deemed the old ignition switch to be good, the "key-in" switch got grumpy and stopped recognizing the key was OUT.

Also, when trouble shooting I saw the horn ring and horn shoe contact were worn and ready to cause trouble,

New ignition switch, new horn ring and new turn signal switch with horn contact shoe...

Fri Aug 21, 2020 12:50 am

There is always apparent conflict between those operating on run to fail models and preventative maintenance models because risk aversion varies

Neither model is “correct“ and even the economics vary.

Rtf generally gets more life and value from parts costs. A single incident requiring a roadside intervention can wipe out that advantage

I run two cars on strict pm, one on strict rtf, and three on a mixed model

Fri Aug 21, 2020 11:18 pm

PM is becoming less reliable since some old parts sometimes last longer than the new parts they're replaced with under PM. Replace the old fuel pump with a possibly less reliable new one and keep the old one on hand as a spare? Keep the OG unit in place? My sample size is way too small to know.

Tue Nov 07, 2023 12:57 pm

So I replaced the switch, made sure all my connections are good and clean, put in a new stater, etc I it still does not consistency start.

Any help appreciated.

Tue Nov 07, 2023 1:39 pm

bear15 wrote: So I replaced the switch, made sure all my connections are good and clean, put in a new stater, etc I it still does not consistency start.

Any help appreciated.

Bear - Do you have an automatic or manual transmission? The automatic also has a neutral safety switch in the start circuit that can cause issues. Is this for your deisel?

Thu Nov 09, 2023 3:45 am

We have a 1982 diesel Manuel stick shift westy.

Thu Nov 09, 2023 10:17 am

bear15 wrote: We have a 1982 diesel Manuel stick shift westy.

Have you tested if there is "a voltage" between your starter motor housing and battery negative (while cranking)?

You need to know if there's voltage ----->during the "start-failure-event".
It's kinda hard to test for - but that's what you need to confirm.

See this post: Why does new battery slow crank new engine?

Mon Jul 15, 2024 10:04 am

Just had an ignition switch failure. Would not crank. I see a lot of reference to Ben's instructions for changing this part out.
I don't think Ben is around anymore (sadly) Does anyone have a link to a procedure to change out the ignition switch?
Thanks

Mon Jul 15, 2024 10:22 am

You can drop the lower column cover by removing the two phillips screws. From there you can unplug the ignition switch. You can jump the two heavy gauge wires with a piece of wire and see if the engine cranks. If not, your problem is elsewhere.

Mon Jul 15, 2024 10:24 am

jocoman wrote:
I don't think Ben is around anymore (sadly) Does anyone have a link to a procedure to change out the ignition switch?
Thanks

https://oldbluesblog.com/files/ReplacingIgnitionSwitch.pdf

Mon Jul 15, 2024 10:25 am

wowee....thank-you

Mon Jul 15, 2024 11:21 am

If you don't have the large socket on hand to remove the steering wheel 24 or 27 mm, I don't recall. Or the allen wrench 6mm to loosen the upper column bearing and have the ignition switch on hand, you can use the ignition switch just plugged in to the harness and a flat blade screw driver. While not ideal, gets you moving.

Of course you need to have the key in the ignition and in the run position to keep the steering unlocked.

I'm not recommending this, but I understand, sometimes you can be on the road and not have the tools and space and just need to get moving.

Mon Jul 15, 2024 11:33 am

Thanks. My no crank today happened in my garage. do you believe it!
The switch I have in there lasted less than a year. Probably a few months. The "on" part of the switch is ok but no crank. I tried my spare with the screwdriver trick as you suggested and away she went.
I have ordered perhaps a better Mahle switch. we will see!
thanks again

Mon Jul 15, 2024 11:36 am

MarkWard wrote: If you don't have the large socket on hand to remove the steering wheel 24 or 27 mm, I don't recall. Or the allen wrench 6mm to loosen the upper column bearing and have the ignition switch on hand, you can use the ignition switch just plugged in to the harness and a flat blade screw driver. While not ideal, gets you moving.

Of course you need to have the key in the ignition and in the run position to keep the steering unlocked.

I'm not recommending this, but I understand, sometimes you can be on the road and not have the tools and space and just need to get moving. This sage advice is exactly what I used to do for Discovery 2 owners who had their ignition lock and ign switch assembly get jammed up on them- It could take weeks or months to get a new assembly from Land Rover. So, we'd chisel loose the two 8mm Shear Bolts, remove the jammed Lock assembly so you had steering wheel movement. Then discretely leave the plugged ign switch just hanging out of the lower dash ,ready for a flat blade screw driver to run, or turn off, the poor vehicle... :roll: :roll:
Some Customers drove a good few months that way while waiting for their new part to arrive... #-o #-o
Sigh , good times... :P :P :roll: :roll:

Mon Jul 15, 2024 12:21 pm

A result. When you remove the upper bearing housing, there is a plastic inner race that over time disintigrates. Without it, the steering wheel has play. Its hard to avoid. I'm not talking about the large plastic spacer.

There is a replacement part made of metal that you can slip in place between the steering shaft and the upper bearing inner race to take up the play. I've posted the number years ago. It might be a beetle part number.

Here is a discussion on how to change it. https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/911_Steering-bushing/911_steering_bushing.htm

Mon Jul 15, 2024 12:34 pm

Kammy, Thanks for the pdf!!!

Mon Jul 15, 2024 6:15 pm

I replaced my switch with one I had purchased a while ago, as preventative maintenance when I replaced a few of my ignition wires. I probably bought it from Go-Westy or VC for under $10. I saw a post somewhere, here on the Samba where one of the guys, maybe Mark Ward installed this:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/111905865L.htm?pn=111-905-865-L-OEM&bc=c
I also bought one, but have yet to install it. Looking at the price difference, it must be better... right? (Ha,Ha...)