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Mon Jul 15, 2024 7:53 pm

OEM kostal brand ign switch https://www.buslab.com/product-p/111905865l.htm

Tue Jul 16, 2024 7:22 am

GreggK wrote: I saw a post somewhere, here on the Samba where one of the guys, maybe Mark Ward installed this:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_Info/111905865L.htm?pn=111-905-865-L-OEM&bc=c
I also bought one, but have yet to install it. Looking at the price difference, it must be better... right? (Ha,Ha...)

That was my switch saga. I had trouble with my 'key-in-ignition' function failing in the "on" condition and draining my start battery.
Draining to zero ruined a couple start batteries over the years and may have contributed to hair loss.

I 'borrowed' a friend's Febi switch and found that its 'key-in-ignition' function was also NOT-reliable.

So I took my original 1990 switch apart and found that its contactors were still 'perfect'...as new! Just the grease had dried up.
Around this time, I bought a Porsche switch from Pelican Parts.
I took the Porsche switch apart and found that it was identical inside to my 1990 VW switch.
The $10 Febi inside was "cheaper looking, with thinner metal, thinner contactors and stuff.
My Porsche switch was a 111905865K, which is a predecessor to the L. And it was $40, the L is $65. The L could be made by Febi, for all we know. Someone has to buy one and open it up and post pics.

My 1990 VW switch, being perfect.....well of course I had to put it back in the van. Story with pics here: Vanagon ignition switches going bad - need advice

Well anyway, 3 years later, the "key-in-ignition" function of my 1990 switch is misbehaving again, and I have to re-insert sometimes and pull it out again, watching to ensure the radio turns off.
And my spare new Porsche Switch is still in my on-board spare-parts bag.

Tue Jul 16, 2024 8:42 am

Hmm, Looks my problem could have been a poor connection on one of the pins. The switch bench tested ok, but the suspicious poor connection was on the X lead. My situation was a no crank. So totally weird.
I would like to change the connector and harness. I can find the connector but not with the harness for an '86.
Any suggestions?

txs

Tue Jul 16, 2024 9:10 am

What other tests have you done - that you're sure it's the ignition switch? There are lots of other failure possibilities on a 35 year old vehicle.
Other faults can be intermittent, so success in changing one component may not tell the whole story.

The one story that comes to mind is the guy who discovered that he had to pull the parking brake to get it to crank.
He had inadvertently "discovered" that his starter was grounding thru his parking brake cable, which had to be tight to complete the circuit.

You could try adding a direct starter ground. They're only $15, one of the cheapest upgrades available these days.
It wipes that problem off the list for the future.
And your future diagnosis, if you have problems, will be "more valid".

Tue Jul 16, 2024 9:13 am

I don't know of a complete harness new. You can buy the brass connnectors and crimp them on to the wire cut back slightly. I don't know the part numbers anymore.

You can take a small flatblade screw driver and pry the backside of the connector enough that is bends "in" and will make a better contact. There are also some aerosol contact cleaners out there.

Another option is to add a starter relay back at the starter solenoid. A Ford type starter remote solenoid is up to the task. This moves the cranking load completely off the ignition switch and factory wire. Last resort, but completely reasonable to do.

I have a relay for my ECU power. This moved the load of running my engine off the ignition switch. We often have long days on end. This is similar to adding relays for the headlights. Those take the load off of the headlight switch.

Tue Jul 16, 2024 9:39 am

SODO: Positive it is a ignition/connection issue!

Tue Jul 16, 2024 9:43 am

I have a nice push button remote switch that I could wire in, but my wiring is sooo messy. I hate to add to that rats nest. I can readily buy the female connector, so really I just need to find the correct female spade connectors.
Anyone have a reference for that? txs

Tue Jul 16, 2024 9:51 am

If someone doesn't chime in, you can start your search here. They are available.

https://www.ratwell.com/technical/Terminals.html#terminals

Tue Jul 16, 2024 9:53 am

Thanks Mark, that's a good lead!

Tue Jul 16, 2024 10:02 am

:thumbsup:

I used to buy them back in the day from Winzer. I don't even know if they are in business anymore. Been a long time. Mc Master Carr, might have something. They have a lot of odd stuff.

Tue Jul 16, 2024 10:18 am

jocoman wrote: SODO: Positive it is a ignition/connection issue!
I think you're saying (without stating so, which adds difficulty for those trying to help you ) that it always cranks HARD when you put a known 12v to the starter spade?

Tue Jul 16, 2024 10:29 am

SODO: Yes. I currently have the lock cylinder housing out and with my original switch and properly connected pins I have good cranking. (screwdriver trick )
I also found some play with the female spade connectors inside the female connector. I am pretty sure my problem is a contact issue. I can get a new female connector, but I am still looking for a source for the female spade connectors that slip into the plastic housing.
Txs

Tue Jul 16, 2024 4:18 pm

jocoman wrote: SODO: Yes. I currently have the lock cylinder housing out and with my original switch and properly connected pins I have good cranking. (screwdriver trick )
I also found some play with the female spade connectors inside the female connector. I am pretty sure my problem is a contact issue. I can get a new female connector, but I am still looking for a source for the female spade connectors that slip into the plastic housing.
Txs

The spades can be bought from Digikey, look up 1/4" spades with lock.

Wed Jul 17, 2024 12:45 pm

And now for the rest of the story....

What was going on was the end of the ignition cylinder was shearing. There was enough there to turn to on, but could not get to start due to the force of the spring.
All fixed know, add this one to the list of things to go wrong. That ignition cylinder was very tired. So happy this happened in my driveway, but the screwdriver trick would have easily worked on the road.

Thanks everyone.