TheSamba.com :: View topic - Impressive small displacement combo (chassis dyno eval)

Mon Aug 15, 2011 12:50 am

Nope, Jake was talking about using the dual cam engine. Thats why i asked him about having to cut up the engine bay for the Suby to fit.

Mon Aug 15, 2011 6:45 am

I honestly would rather approach this in the most difficult manner possible to get the most from it. I want to use a very modern engine, because by the time the program is really going the older engines will be too old and the current engines will have dropped in value, making a conversion cheaper.

The EJ22 is probably the best all around engine for a simple conversion and they are also one of the more robust units that were built Component interchangeability is a huge benefit to the Suby.

Don't be surprised if the JR51 isn't what I create :-)

Mon Aug 15, 2011 7:41 am

merging modern technoligy is fine,and retrofitting is also.aluminum better coolung cylinders and a 3,4or 5 valve head & a dohc head with properly sizes and desigined ports, for these old motors would also be nice.even a sohc kit would be something to be hold and not all the hard or expensive to make.

Mon Aug 15, 2011 7:47 am

mark tucker wrote: merging modern technoligy is fine,and retrofitting is also.aluminum better coolung cylinders and a 3,4or 5 valve head & a dohc head with properly sizes and desigined ports, for these old motors would also be nice.even a sohc kit would be something to be hold and not all the hard or expensive to make.

Are you speaking of ACVW or Subie?

Mon Aug 15, 2011 7:51 am

both, either and or.yup

Tue Aug 16, 2011 9:32 pm

Jake,
The reason that motor runs so well is the DELLORTO CARB :lol: :lol:
DELLORTO CARBS ARE THE BEST................. 8)

Thu Jun 28, 2012 11:20 am

Update on the 1679cc. I bought it from Jake last June/July and put 5K miles on it in my '64 with dual 36 DRLA's. I had to tear it down to fix a cam bearing, and found that the heads aren't 39x32 041 heads. They're just stock 35.5/32 stock dual port heads with no porting. The Engle cam and lifters look great after about 10k miles. The lifter bores look great and are still tight- no problems with the FK-41 eating the bores. Thought this would help anyone wanting to replicate the build. I haven't even checked the mileage yet- don't have the self control to drive normal for a whole tank. :oops: It's been a great little engine and I'm anxious to get it back together so I can start beating on it again!

BTW, with a "dyno" app on my Iphone, it's putting down about 68 hp at the wheels. It calculates HP based on weight and acceleration (using the iphone's accelerometer). I used the curb weight listed in the owner's manual plus what I weigh. Since that's not 100% accurate on the weight, the HP will be off a hair, but 68 WHP is close to what Jake was getting. The 60' time is 3 tenths slower than what it used to run with the old 1600, and I think with the mph it's running there's room to drop the 1/8th mile ET a little. I'll take it to the local 1/8 mile track once I get the engine back in to get real numbers, but I think these are fairly accurate.

Here's a video of it running 0-80 mph.

Thu Jun 28, 2012 11:28 am

What casting are the heads?

Thu Jun 28, 2012 11:35 am

Thu Jun 28, 2012 11:42 am

Awaffull wide seats, & boogered up a bit too.Whats with it not being what jake said it was?brain fade?At some point we all suffer from it when you have done so many of almost the same things & when they all looke alike they all tend to run togeather.thus I did a lot of everything& allmost remember them all.Some were a joy, some were a headache due to the owners.
just because you think your racer robbie , technition tom or even engine builder bob, dont mean you need to own a vehicle that needs more attn than a beer can does.(just remember chicks dig new cars with ac too!!)

Thu Jun 28, 2012 11:47 am

are you going to do any port work or any thing???(minor raidi of the pockets & around the guides if needed, no hoging with that small cc motor)& redo the vj.
and ,dam thats a thick headed lifter!!!but it is 8" long too 8)

Thu Jun 28, 2012 11:50 am

mark tucker wrote: are you going to do any port work or any thing???(minor raidi of the pockets & around the guides if needed, no hoging with that small cc motor)& redo the vj.
and ,dam thats a thick headed lifter!!!but it is 8" long too 8)

I was going to get yall's opinion of blending the seat into the ports, but not opening anything up like you said. The valves seal up well (they'll hold solvent) so I was going to leave them alone.

Thu Jun 28, 2012 11:57 am

yup knock off the corners& "D" port the exhaust a bit.I would redoo the seats but thats just me.kinda hard to tell you just what to do, Im not looking at them you are & I'm not doing the work, you are. what was the cam bearing issue??

Thu Jun 28, 2012 12:12 pm

One of the thrust flanges broke off. Here's the thread I started about that.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=502361

Thu Jun 28, 2012 9:07 pm

isant that the issue he had with it?might want to dig farther & find out why it broke.sharp corrner on the case,to loose on the case(back&fourth not side to side) notch in the case on both sides and one in the rong place.(I just remove the tang on the bearing,dont notch the case most of the time.or for some reason it is pounding the crap out of it.both should contact the cam at the same time& be well supported, if the case isant wide enough& it isant even it may do what your did.you might need to asemble the case and check to see if the case matches up , or if something has shifted.also look at the gear for a nub,bump,funny wear pattern(both gears) to see if possiably one was droped or something and it forces the cam back or foward when it contacts that spot.I have a set hear that has some fucked up whitness marks on the cam gear from the cranbk gear that was afu when somebodt assembled this motor from the northwest.there both getting replaced as is the cam.
also check to be sure the cam towere contact each other when the case is torqued they may be moving(you should see fretting if thats the case unless they dont even tuch.
straight gear or hypoid(angled)?thrust on crank & case ok?
if the bearing fits tight, take a feller gauge.001 or .002 and see if it will go under the flang,see if something is bending the flange out,burr,not enough raidi on the case.so when the cam go's back&fourth it is contacting toe outer edge pushing it and just flexing it back&fourth till it snaps off.dont just stick it back togeather and think it is fixed,make sure it is.good luck.

Thu Jun 28, 2012 9:08 pm

for got single or double thrust?use dubble if it was single.

Thu Jun 28, 2012 9:09 pm

read his other post, he knows why it broke.

Fri Jun 29, 2012 1:24 am

theastronaut wrote: Update on the 1679cc. I bought it from Jake last June/July and put 5K miles on it in my '64 with dual 36 DRLA's. I had to tear it down to fix a cam bearing, and found that the heads aren't 39x32 041 heads. They're just stock 35.5/32 stock dual port heads with no porting. The Engle cam and lifters look great after about 10k miles. The lifter bores look great and are still tight- no problems with the FK-41 eating the bores. Thought this would help anyone wanting to replicate the build. I haven't even checked the mileage yet- don't have the self control to drive normal for a whole tank. :oops: It's been a great little engine and I'm anxious to get it back together so I can start beating on it again!

BTW, with a "dyno" app on my Iphone, it's putting down about 68 hp at the wheels. It calculates HP based on weight and acceleration (using the iphone's accelerometer). I used the curb weight listed in the owner's manual plus what I weigh. Since that's not 100% accurate on the weight, the HP will be off a hair, but 68 WHP is close to what Jake was getting. The 60' time is 3 tenths slower than what it used to run with the old 1600, and I think with the mph it's running there's room to drop the 1/8th mile ET a little. I'll take it to the local 1/8 mile track once I get the engine back in to get real numbers, but I think these are fairly accurate.

Here's a video of it running 0-80 mph.

That´s about 81-84 hp on the flywheel. Quite normal for the set up. But the 41 does make a good amount of torque, which is why the car is faster than the hp numbers indicate.
T

Fri Jun 29, 2012 1:26 am

PS. The FK41, 42 and to some extend the 43 arent so hard on the lifter bores. after that it becomes a thing to worry about.
T

Fri Jun 29, 2012 5:17 am

theastronaut wrote: .......That´s about 81-84 hp on the flywheel. Quite normal for the set up. But the 41 does make a good amount of torque, which is why the car is faster than the hp numbers indicate.
T

What kind of HP would this engine get if a turbo were added?