TheSamba.com :: View topic - Distributor 113905205T rebuild *PIC Heavy*

Tue Oct 06, 2015 1:43 pm

DeathTrap wrote:

without puting the unit on the machine and setting the centrifical, and or vacuum "curves" it's a somewhat mute point.

Boy, that statement isn't even close to being accurate. To suggest that there's no benefit in disassembling these 45+ YO distributors to clean, lube and replace the missing or broken fiber washers and adjust the shaft free play is, simply not true. I've seen many sticky, stiff and sometimes frozen pivot plates as the pictures in this thread illustrate.

As Robbie stated, I've also never had an issue with any of these vacuum only distributors requiring a curve check. Maybe Tasb will read this and share his findings since he has a Sunbeam machine and has rebuild tons of these. Either way, there is great benefit in going thru this exercise.

Wed Oct 07, 2015 7:13 pm

That pivot point is factory set for the spring to advance and return the points plate within specifications. I've rarely messed with one. They are stiff and do not adjust easily without the special tool that even I do not own. it's infinitely easier to simply replace the spring.

I frequently check SVA distributor on my Sun machine. They are nearly always in spec or bad period, not much grey area.

I'm running 61 year old vacuum canisters on two of my 36 vehicles. They have been cleaned and restored, of course.

Fri Oct 23, 2015 2:41 pm

I ordered a bosch kit #1 237 010 007.

it only has one fiber washer that fits my shaft. The other one is too big (ID and OD) Do I need two kits, or is one fiber washer sufficient?

Edit: nevermind. The answer is: You need both washers. Even with the full stack of shims, my shaft has a little bit of axial play. Blurgh. Time to order another kit, or buy a single washer.

Glenn had them, somebody said?

Fri Oct 23, 2015 3:44 pm

Email me and will workout the details.

Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:23 pm

you've got mail... I think

Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:39 pm

Some of the later DVDA distributors only use one washer. That's why the kits only have one phenolic shim. They are ignoring the fact that most Bosch distributor use two shims.

Fri Oct 23, 2015 5:06 pm

Random thought: Is there any reason to NOT replace those fiber washers with teflon washers of similar dimensions?

Fri Oct 23, 2015 5:10 pm

Yes, the fiber swells and acts as a seal.

Sat Apr 23, 2016 5:23 pm

Another 113905205T cleaned, lubed, and ready for points/rotor/cap to go back into service! Thanks for the thread Bill!

Sat Apr 23, 2016 7:55 pm

[email protected] wrote: Another 113905205T cleaned, lubed, and ready for points/rotor/cap to go back into service! Thanks for the thread Bill!

Looks great!

Tue May 17, 2016 7:51 pm

mattlockwood wrote: Thanks for the motivation to rebuild! Here's mine. No before and afters, just after :D

in the photo, it looks like the ground strap is touching the vacuum can arm, but it's not. Points wire isn't touching the distrib case either. iPhone photos....

I have a 113905205t marked distributor that looks exactly like this 205M when looking at the inside of it. Was wondering if I should get caps and rotors for an M or T?? Wonder if someone changed the internals or something on it?

Tue May 17, 2016 8:02 pm

Looks that way.

Tue May 17, 2016 9:04 pm

The 205M is just like the very common 205K distributor. It uses different parts than the "T". For one, the cap is shorter than the "T". They do look similar inside.

Wed May 18, 2016 12:00 am

wcfvw69 wrote: The 205M is just like the very common 205K distributor. It uses different parts than the "T". For one, the cap is shorter than the "T". They do look similar inside.

VW uses the M and T interchangeably in application in every text I have ever read. They do use different tune-up parts. T's are more similar to the 009/SVDA style caps and rotors. Allegedly, the M uses the shorter "earlier" style parts, but I have not verified this in person.

The M is listed as having the same parts as the K, but note that the K is timed differently, and utilizes a different vacuum signal. T and M utilize the same vacuum signal.

Robbie

Wed May 18, 2016 1:44 pm

Both the 113 M and T distributors use the updated points plate that has a hole for the points to sit in instead of a brass post. They may appear to be the same but, the 113 905 205 M has a shorter and narrower shaft at the rotor end and thus requires a shorter cap and rotor.

The 113 905 205 T has a taller wider shaft at the rotor end requiring a cap and rotor identical to the ones used on the 009 and other later distributors.

The difference isn't readily apparent until you line the two up next to each other.

The difference in the rotor shaft is the reason they have different part numbers.

rotor shaft diameter:
113 905 205 M 12 mm true also for 111 series distributors
113 905 205 T 14 mm true also for 009 and all later distributors

The shaft diameter where it enters the distributor housing is the same on all aluminum boded distributors essentially the K,M,T are interchangeable and often are :(

The 113 M and T have the same timing specs because the vacuum canister are identical.

In addition to a different vacuum canister the 113 905 205 K distributor has a different return spring than the 113 M or T. So you could install a shaft from a 113 T into a 113 K distributor and retain all other 113 K parts. You could assemble a 113 905 205 K with the later tall cap and rotor. When assembling the points plate sits underneath the points cam/rotor post.

Fri Jun 10, 2016 7:30 am

So i finally got the right electric ignition and am wondering if the grounding wire has to be soldered or screwed into the actual breaker plate or if i can do this:

a nut goes over that thread for the electric points. You guys think that would work?

Sat Nov 12, 2016 9:45 pm

tasb wrote: Rebuilding a 113 905 205 T and then rebuilding a 113 905 205 AE are very different procedures. this thread would be useful for the following distributors:

113 905 205 K
113 905 205 M
113 905 205 T
131 905 205

Also will guide you through rebuilding the similar :

ZV/JUR 4 R 3
111 905 205 M
111 905 205 N

and perhaps a few others I have left out. If you have something else the tips offered will be helpful but yours will not look or function the same as the 113 905 205 T featured in this post.

How's that for a disclaimer?

TASB,

Is there any differences in the 205 K, M and T distributors?

Thanks, Jay Dub

Sat Nov 12, 2016 10:59 pm

Overall they are very similar, if you look at them like this, they look pretty darn close:

However, the 009-K has a breaker plate with a stud for the 01 009 two-piece points and the 023-M and 035-T have just a hole there for the 01013 one-piece points.

The 035-T has a taller shaft for the later, taller, 04012/04033 rotor and 03010 cap instead of the shorter 04006 rotor and 03001 cap.
...and the K has a different vacuum canister than the other two, or course.

Sun Nov 13, 2016 7:15 am

Is the 04 006 rotor still sold?

Sun Nov 13, 2016 7:23 am

Bosch ones? Not sure, the Bosch Automotive Tradition website doesn't list it as discontinued. But that doesn't mean it's not been dropped from distribution by Bosch USA.

But there's other brands out there.