TheSamba.com :: View topic - Distributor 113905205T rebuild *PIC Heavy*

Sun Nov 13, 2016 7:34 am

glutamodo wrote: Bosch ones? Not sure, the Bosch Automotive Tradition website doesn't list it as discontinued. But that doesn't mean it's not been dropped from distribution by Bosch USA.

But there's other brands out there.

I have an 205AJ DVDA distributor w/a computronix module. I always have to cut my rotors to fit, so I'm curious - can this shorter rotor be used in my distributor w/out having to be cut?

Sun Nov 13, 2016 8:01 am

Sadly, no, the shafts are of different diameters. Kind of hard to tell in the photo on the last page, but here's another photoside-by-side:

Sun Nov 13, 2016 11:00 pm

Set my 113-905-205-T dwell on the bench using a drill and the AT2150B. Also checked the tach and dwell function for accuracy. The dwell reads 45.7% with a square wave from a function generator. The generator duty cycle is 45.5%. Here are the results of the tach calibration check.

Mon Nov 14, 2016 9:20 am

glutamodo wrote: Sadly, no, the shafts are of different diameters. Kind of hard to tell in the photo on the last page, but here's another photoside-by-side:

The shafts on the 113 T and the 113 AJ are identical. Andy is showing you the shafts from a 113 T and 113 M those ARE different. As to your question it depends upon how much of the rotor material is removed. The cneter carbon brush is spring loaded so it may work.

Mon Nov 14, 2016 9:23 am

Wayne S. Johnson wrote: Set my 113-905-205-T dwell on the bench using a drill and the AT2150B. Also checked the tach and dwell function for accuracy. The dwell reads 45.7% with a square wave from a function generator, I'm not sure if generator is exactly 50%. Here are the results of the tach calibration check.

That's some interesting data Wayne. So, can we trust the devices that we are using to be accurate enough for good engine performance?

Mon Nov 14, 2016 11:12 am

The AT2150B goes for $25 on eBay. I think this is a great meter at a great price. I also checked TEMPERATURE, DCV, ACV and OHMS on several different ranges, all readings were accurate. Here is a pic of my calibration and test bench. I would not assume all test equipment is accurate, however, I'm happy with the AT2150B I have.

Mon Nov 14, 2016 11:18 am

Looks like you're ready for a shuttle launch.

Mon Nov 14, 2016 11:27 am

You can test your TACH/DWELL meter with an AC wall transformer. A 12 VAC output will provide a test signal for a TACH/DWELL meter, the power line frequency is 60 Hz with 50% duty cycle, which will read 1800 RPM and 45° on a 4 cylinder TACH/DWELL meter. The power line frequency is very accurate because it's used by analog and digital clocks to keep the correct time.

Mon Nov 14, 2016 11:37 am

Glenn wrote: Looks like you're ready for a shuttle launch.

The problem with my 66 Beetle is getting it up to 88 MPH. HA HA
I'm working on the instruments, they will all have connector for easy removal to go back to the stock look. Ordered a voltmeter 6-16 V range to replace the 120 A gauge.

My electric 68 now has a stock 66 to pal around with.

Mon Nov 14, 2016 11:53 am

Glenn please post a pic of your dash gauges.

Mon Nov 14, 2016 12:06 pm

Wayne S. Johnson wrote: Glenn please post a pic of your dash gauges.
Basic tach, oil temp and pressure. Not really worried about the rest of the stuff.

Sun Jun 11, 2017 10:55 am

These are great instructions!!! I wonder if they can also help with my 205C distributor...

my story: I have a 1977 super beetle convert (since 6 months), engine AJ with fuel injection. My distributor is a DVDA 043905205C, my rotor 1234332215, my cap 1235522056. My research found that I am supposed to run a 205H, but I don't really know the difference. the 205C is a rebuilt unit, but I don't know how when that was installed.

I also installed a pertonix system incl. coil, and timed everything to about 22 deg at 3500 rpm, hoses connected. I believe it was running well, however the distributor is leaking engine oil through the holes in the body of the distributor. Enough to mess up the whole engine.

I bought a CIP1 "VWC-043-905-205 - GOOD QUALITY REPRODUCTION - VACUUM ADVANCE (SVDA) DISTRIBUTOR - COMPLETE - ALL BEETLE STYLE ENGINES", installed the pertronix, but it runs crappy - no power and it seems too hot! I didn't drive long!

So, I think I need to rebuild the 205C.

Questions:
1. Anything wrong with the CIP1 distributor? Do I need to time that one for 22 deg or closer to 30 deg? Again, this is a FI engine...
2. Should I rebuild the 205C although I should run a 205H?
3. Not sure what would cause the distributor to leak, but what are typically the parts I would need to replace. Where would I get them?
4. Or shall I buy a different distributor, just not sure which one and where and if it would run on the FI engine.
5. OR, should I disassemble the CIP distributor and use those parts for the 205C parts that are bad???

I know these are a lot of questions, but I am struggling to get this fixed. Basically, can't run the car because of this oil leak.... BTW, all other oil leak sources are renewed (all gaskets/seals, push rod tubes, etc.)

Any advice would be VERY helpful!!

Thanks,
Nico

Mon Jun 12, 2017 5:38 pm

Hello Nico, welcome to The Samba. The 043 C was the fuel injection distributor issued to cars going to California. The 043 H was issued a bit later to the rest of the 49 states. They have the same vacuum advance canister and the mechanical advance weights are the same. They are essentially the same distributor its just that th 043 C was issued earlier.

Tue Jun 13, 2017 8:23 am

Thank you - I've been reading so much here, it is an incredible source of information!!

So, looks like I have the right distributor - that's good to know. As said, it is leaking a lot of oil, too much to drive it.

Is the 205C much different than the CIP1 distributor I got?? Trying to figure out if it is better to rebuild the 205C ortry to fix the "poor performance" when I use the CIP1 distributor (don't really know what this issue is)?

What would I need in terms of parts to rebuild the 205C? And where get it?? There are some "Distributor Repair Kits", but it seems there are more parts in that kit that actually go into the distributor... :?

Tue Jun 13, 2017 8:36 am

The problem you have is the one from CIP is made by Bruck in China. They are known to be of poor quality and the curves vary from model to model.

For $60, you can't expect quality.

Tue Jun 13, 2017 8:39 am

Nico2 wrote: Thank you - I've been reading so much here, it is an incredible source of information!!

So, looks like I have the right distributor - that's good to know. As said, it is leaking a lot of oil, too much to drive it.

Is the 205C much different than the CIP1 distributor I got?? Trying to figure out if it is better to rebuild the 205C ortry to fix the "poor performance" when I use the CIP1 distributor (don't really know what this issue is)?

What would I need in terms of parts to rebuild the 205C? And where get it?? There are some "Distributor Repair Kits", but it seems there are more parts in that kit that actually go into the distributor... :?

Any original Bosch German made distributor from back in the day is miles ahead of the crappy new distributors made in China sold today. The 205C is an excellent distributor but.. if you've never rebuilt one, you'd be better off sending it to someone w/experience to do it. They have plastic spring retainers in them that break easily if taken apart wrong. Those parts are not available either.

There are no real kits for those distributors to rebuild them. Usually they require a full disassembly, cleaning, inspection and then reassemble with new Bosch fiber washers, Bosch grease and oil.

Fri Sep 01, 2017 12:52 am

Many thanks for your pics and sparing the time for this write up to help others.

I am currently refurbishing a 205K distributor for my 1966 bug, but one of the cap retaining clips keeps falling, can you please indicate how these are held in place as would like to fix it back.

Thanks in advance for your help and input.

Fri Sep 01, 2017 2:25 am

I've talked more than once about how to fix the broken clip problem on those 1965-70 era distributors.

glutamodo wrote:

By the way, there are a couple of issues with these distributors - both fixable though. The first is an annoyance - The nubs that keep the distributor cap clips in place often wear out. There's a hole in there that you can slightly enlarge by drilling, and press a small metal rod, wire, or even a small bolt/nut and fix that issue.

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Fri Sep 01, 2017 3:17 am

Many thanks for the pics Andy. Now its more clear.

Unfortunately on mine the area where the nubs are in place are broken so cannot enlarge the hole by drilling. Need to think of something else to keep them in place.

Fri Sep 01, 2017 7:41 am

restocal63 wrote: Many thanks for the pics Andy. Now its more clear.

Unfortunately on mine the area where the nubs are in place are broken so cannot enlarge the hole by drilling. Need to think of something else to keep them in place.

Here in the USA, those 205k's and T's are plentiful and cheap to buy. You may consider just buying another distributor with good clips in place. I have boxes of the bodies with damage on them and just use them as parts.