TheSamba.com :: View topic

Tue Oct 12, 2021 3:48 pm

Tim,

At least he wasn't asking for a date coded distributor.

I've had customers want one date coded to match their car.. .even the condenser date coded.

I tend to avoid those type of customers.

And tten i've sold a number of VJ4BR25 and 010s without the BOSCH nameplate to customers that just want the performance.

Tue Oct 12, 2021 3:51 pm

tasb wrote: the price for even junk 010's is absurdly through the roof I still

How much do you pay? I'll pay good money for 010 and 019 cores.

Tue Oct 12, 2021 4:34 pm

In deference to "Mr. 010", just in case someone misreads me, there is nothing wrong with 010's and 019's, I'm not trashing them! they just aren't dictionary definable as original or legit.

I think Marcel may be misreading me, I won't pay more than $100 for a core and it better be restorable at that price. If I have to pay more I will have to raise the price of my restored units.

Tue Oct 12, 2021 4:42 pm

Reading this post made me curios, went out to my spares bucket in my 71 deluxe and am holding in my hand my BOSCH GERMANY IMPORTE D'ALLEMAGNE VJ 4 BR 8 it has a shinny small square 1/8 x 3/16 after the 8 in BR 8 with scratches that can't make out. Below and to the right of one stamp are another stamp. Is it unusual?

Tue Oct 12, 2021 5:14 pm

tasb wrote:
I think Marcel may be misreading me, I won't pay more than $100 for a core and it better be restorable at that price. If I have to pay more I will have to raise the price of my restored units.

I read you right and you were very clear. The junk comment was in regards to the quality of the metal and internals and not the actual distributor. We all know 010 and 019 are wonderful.

Maybe I am the one who inflated the prices. I do own quite a few. I'll buy more if anyone has them.

Tue Oct 12, 2021 5:15 pm

bsairhead wrote: Reading this post made me curios, went out to my spares bucket in my 71 deluxe and am holding in my hand my BOSCH GERMANY IMPORTE D'ALLEMAGNE VJ 4 BR 8 it has a shinny small square 1/8 x 3/16 after the 8 in BR 8 with scratches that can't make out. Below and to the right of one stamp are another stamp. Is it unusual?
It's not unusual.

Tue Oct 12, 2021 5:18 pm

heimlich wrote: tasb wrote: the price for even junk 010's is absurdly through the roof I still

How much do you pay? I'll pay good money for 010 and 019 cores.
I used to pay good money for cores, but $150 to $200 for a core that might not be rebuildable is crazy.

I have a box of overpaid broken parts. Much safer to have the customer provide the core.

Tue Oct 12, 2021 5:21 pm

tasb wrote: In deference to "Mr. 010", just in case someone misreads me, there is nothing wrong with 010's and 019's, I'm not trashing them! they just aren't dictionary definable as original or legit.
The 019 is a replacement version of the VJ4BR8 which was "original" on 1954-1959 VW Type 2.

The 010 is a replacement version of the Vj4BR25 which was "original"
on the 1959-1/2 to 1960 VW Type 2.

Around 1964 Bosch changed the way they number their parts so all 019 and 010 are manufactured after that date.

If you have an 59 Beetle with and Okrasa engine the "correct" distributor would be a VJ4BR25, but no one would b!tch if it had a 010.

Tue Oct 12, 2021 5:32 pm

Glenn wrote: bsairhead wrote: Reading this post made me curios, went out to my spares bucket in my 71 deluxe and am holding in my hand my BOSCH GERMANY IMPORTE D'ALLEMAGNE VJ 4 BR 8 it has a shinny small square 1/8 x 3/16 after the 8 in BR 8 with scratches that can't make out. Below and to the right of one stamp are another stamp. Is it unusual?
It's not unusual. Thanks Glenn, It also has an arrow stamped into the body.

Tue Oct 12, 2021 5:37 pm

heimlich wrote: tasb wrote:
I think Marcel may be misreading me, I won't pay more than $100 for a core and it better be restorable at that price. If I have to pay more I will have to raise the price of my restored units.

I read you right and you were very clear. The junk comment was in regards to the quality of the metal and internals and not the actual distributor. We all know 010 and 019 are wonderful.

Maybe I am the one who inflated the prices. I do own quite a few. I'll buy more if anyone has them.

Misreading in terms of I have some cores available. I do but they are original VJ 4 BR 8's and VJR 4 BR 25's.

Apparently some will bitch or feel insecure that it's not a "010" cause it's a BR 25.

Tue Oct 12, 2021 5:42 pm

bsairhead wrote: Glenn wrote: bsairhead wrote: Reading this post made me curios, went out to my spares bucket in my 71 deluxe and am holding in my hand my BOSCH GERMANY IMPORTE D'ALLEMAGNE VJ 4 BR 8 it has a shinny small square 1/8 x 3/16 after the 8 in BR 8 with scratches that can't make out. Below and to the right of one stamp are another stamp. Is it unusual?
It's not unusual. Thanks Glenn, It also has an arrow stamped into the body.

On some distributors, rare for those installed on VW's that empty box would contain a variant letter stamping. A "T" can sometimes be found in that silver box. It designates that the distributor originally came with a dust cover.

All Bosch distributors have that arrow. It designates the direction the shaft spins as some like Volvo rotated counterclockwise.

Tue Oct 12, 2021 5:56 pm

tasb wrote: All Bosch distributors have that arrow. It designates the direction the shaft spins as some like Volvo rotated counterclockwise.

Tue Oct 12, 2021 6:02 pm

What is the tolerance on the advance curves on the Sun machines? How many degrees can it be out and still pass, or in spec?

Tue Oct 12, 2021 6:11 pm

It's not a pass fail. The machine shows the advance in degrees and you determine if its in spec or not.

Tue Oct 12, 2021 6:20 pm

The Bosch advance curves charts show a tolerance of +/- 3 degrees which is actually a pretty wide range.

Tue Oct 12, 2021 6:47 pm

Glenn wrote: tasb wrote: All Bosch distributors have that arrow. It designates the direction the shaft spins as some like Volvo rotated counterclockwise.
Not mine

Tue Oct 12, 2021 8:29 pm

Well looky there, a cast iron "009", which is why I tirelessly advocate using more of the part number than just the last three digits.

Tue Oct 12, 2021 8:54 pm

tasb wrote: Well looky there, a cast iron "009", which is why I tirelessly advocate using more of the part number than just the last three digits.
Yup.

If you want to.xiscjss, call me at 4697

Wed Oct 13, 2021 6:49 am

I think most have been said, but it's plainly stupid. It got to be one of the only times an later replacement is more thought after than the original. As if people suddenly would think the "red" 03 012 cap is more original than "brown/bakelite" and period correct. (The red cap is about the same vintage as the "010"). There would absolutly not be a problem to do so if you just go for functionality.

On paper Bosch changed to the 10-digit part number around 1964, but I think the badge stayed the same at least to mid-late or even early 70's (both Bosch and vw still refers to it as VJR4BR25 to at least 1965-68 ).

I do get it that period correct looking can be important. If you build something on a 1600, a "010" might be more modern/ correct in time. What makes me wonder the most is why so many 36hp vintage speed engines has the "010" when so mutch time and money is invested to have everything else (fuel-, oil- filter, carbs, decals etc) look period correct and the VJU4 BR25 is an option. Back in the time the "010" badge came I would guess very few still built performance 36hp engines. At least the VJR4BR25 is a more plauseble choice for a period correct build (VJ4BR8 or 383 for earlier).

Wed Oct 13, 2021 9:58 am

tasb wrote: The most recent contribution to the I want an "original 010" club

No worries thank you. I wanted one of the originals in the original paint etc. that type of thing. If you have any 010’s I’ll take one of those if you have one. But I would rather wait for a legit 019. Thank you

After explaining that the VJ 4 BR 25 is exactly the same as an "010" and that the pandemic has severely limited my ability to acquire cores and the price for even junk 010's is absurdly through the roof I still get this:

I understand that. But the numbers aren’t the same on the tag even though it’s technically the same distributor. I restore Vws. I’m just looking for an original or a legit 019 that I can restore myself or just stick directly into my GTV. Let me know thank you

According to Webster:
Original: existing first or at the beginning, not a copy.

legit(imate): not like others, new, never seen before.

The 010 and 019 are neither original nor legitimate by dictionary definition.

What he can't bring himself to say is that his buddies will think less of him or his ride because he doesn't have an "010" on his ride like the ones in the magazine.

To the original customer just in case he finds this please understand that I get this line of inquiry almost weekly certainly monthly. I find it annoying when confronted with the facts that they still insist on a reproduction, copy instead of the legitimate original because the copies are in short supply.

Based on this post alone, I would try to never do business with you. What a great way to cut your own nose off, making fun of a very polite customer that is willing to wait and spend on something they want done right. People spend money on un-necessary things all the time. But then to go further and put it out there as a rant against potential customers seems short sighted.

On my notchback I asked around for and waited for the correct coil with the matching stamping on the bottom. Wanted it to be the right coil for my car. By your logic I should have bought whatever coil you had on the shelf to sell me. No worries, thank you. I will use one of the many coils I have on hand until I find the right one. Didn't take long, found the correct stamped one with color and patina on the Bakelite to match the distributer cap and oil pressure sender. Necessary? Not at all. At the end of the day, a superbeetle owner probably wouldn't know or care any of these things, but some of us absolutely do and strive to get the details right. Don't even get me started on Kamex bolts, and yes, the screw on the air cleaner clamp should be flat head :lol: