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			| Scotty D | Fri Jan 19, 2024 7:14 am |  
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			| Seems I’ll have to remove or at least loosen the pedal assembly to route the hard line beneath it.  I know the clutch cable is a pain in the ass to reconnect so I’m dreading the idea of fully removing the assembly. 
 On the other hand, I’d love to get it out and clean it up a bit.
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			| Scotty D | Fri Jan 19, 2024 7:41 am |  
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			| New lines, minus the main line which is already partially installed. 
 
 
 
 The grommets I removed (the 2 up front) vs the grommets ISP West sent me:
 
 
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			| Scotty D | Fri Jan 19, 2024 9:57 pm |  
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			| Yee-haw!! I was able to feed the line under the pedal assembly without removing it.  It took some tweaking, but it’s in! But Damn this ISP West main line is SHORT! 
 I made a quick bend into the Master, and there is just enough length to get it through the back and to the original spot for the rear tee. I hoped there’d be a little extra line, but it’s just enough.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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			| Scotty D | Sat Jan 20, 2024 1:26 pm |  
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			| In typical VW fashion, it’s one step forward, two steps back. 
 Finished plumbing the rest of the brake lines in the rear. The original short hard lines stayed because the ISP West kit basically has the wrong parts in it.
 
 As I started bleeding again, I got some fluid/air to finally come out of the rear bleeders. Super stoked to see zero leaks anywhere as well.
 
 Then it dawned on me.  The front disc calipers are basically frozen up. It’s like the fluid can’t return into the master for some reason. All new lines up front so that’s not the issue.  I don’t think it’s a caliper issue but can’t tell for sure.
 
 I’m wondering now if the “pop” I heard earlier was more than just the original hard line giving way. Maybe I blew a seal in the master or something that’s not allowing the front circuit to “retract” as it were.
 
 Any thoughts guys? Happy to send pics if it would help.
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			| Bobnotch | Sat Jan 20, 2024 1:50 pm |  
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			| Scotty D wrote:			   In typical VW fashion, it’s one step forward, two steps back. 
 Finished plumbing the rest of the brake lines in the rear. The original short hard lines stayed because the ISP West kit basically has the wrong parts in it.
 
 As I started bleeding again, I got some fluid/air to finally come out of the rear bleeders. Super stoked to see zero leaks anywhere as well.
 
 Then it dawned on me.  The front disc calipers are basically frozen up. It’s like the fluid can’t return into the master for some reason. All new lines up front so that’s not the issue.  I don’t think it’s a caliper issue but can’t tell for sure.
 
 I’m wondering now if the “pop” I heard earlier was more than just the original hard line giving way. Maybe I blew a seal in the master or something that’s not allowing the front circuit to “retract” as it were.
 
 Any thoughts guys? Happy to send pics if it would help.
 
 If there's anything I've learned from working on old cars, it's "anything is possible". I've run into more "odd ball" stuff over the years working on old cars than I can remember. I've even run into plugged brake hoses before that didn't flow, but looked good. I've had a brand new metal fuel filter that wouldn't flow gas thru it (you couldn't blow thru it either). I've had the moving part of a set of points move just enough to hang open and not allow spark to happen. This was on the side of the road, and everything looked good on visual inspection. I've had a mechanical fuel pump quit (vapor lock) on a road trip after driving it for 3 hours. Like I said just odd ball stuff you wouldn't think about.
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			| Scotty D | Sat Jan 20, 2024 2:33 pm |  
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			| The life of an older car aficionado huh? 
 Thinking I’ll reverse engineer this and lose some brake fluid up front, maybe even pull the line, then see how the calipers react.
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			| Scotty D | Sat Jan 20, 2024 8:36 pm |  
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			| I disconnected the front brake line to the driver side caliper and let the fluid drain. The caliper remained locked up even with the brake line disconnected. 
 Sooo…
 
 Looks like the calipers need rebuilt.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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			| Scotty D | Sat Jan 20, 2024 9:38 pm |  
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			| Checking out a rebuild kit.What are these? 
 
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			| Bobnotch | Sun Jan 21, 2024 12:19 pm |  
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			| Those are the piston "anti roll" plates. They keep the pistons from turning. |  |  
 
  
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			| Scotty D | Sun Jan 21, 2024 12:46 pm |  
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			| While the brake system is on hold, I figured I’d focus a little bit on the fuel system. 
 Started cleaning off some of the “surface rust” on top of the tank to prep it for paint and found a few pin holes in the surface. 🙄  I know that buying a tank in better shape is the only answer for that. YAY. Thought about using a JB Weld tank patch tube for a temporary measure only.
 
 Got the fuel pump mount plate and bracket cleaned up a bit.
 
 
 
 
 When I got the car, the original pump was just dangling beneath it, as the vibration mount posts had just deteriorated and broken apart. Looking to order a new pair from Grainger.
 
 
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			| Scotty D | Sun Jan 21, 2024 12:48 pm |  
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			| Bobnotch wrote:			   Those are the piston "anti roll" plates. They keep the pistons from turning. 
 Thanks Bob.
 
 I’ve rebuilt calipers for a 2003 Mazda Protege5 before (love my wagons 😉) but feel like this job is better left to the pros.
 
 I wonder if paying to have them rebuilt is more or less than the $500 ISP West rebuilt sets?
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			| Bobnotch | Sun Jan 21, 2024 12:54 pm |  
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			| Scotty D wrote:			    	  Bobnotch wrote:			   Those are the piston "anti roll" plates. They keep the pistons from turning. 
 Thanks Bob.
 
 I’ve rebuilt calipers for a 2003 Mazda Protege5 before (love my wagons 😉) but feel like this job is better left to the pros.
 
 I wonder if paying to have them rebuilt is more or less than the $500 ISP West rebuilt sets?
 
 I'd contact Jim Adney and have him rebuild them. Shipping will take some time though, but he's done multiple sets for me and others on here. He does offer rebuilding services, and has an ad in the Samba classifieds. Contact him at: [email protected] .
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			| Mike Fisher | Sun Jan 21, 2024 1:00 pm |  
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			| Scotty D wrote:			    	  Bobnotch wrote:			   Those are the piston "anti roll" plates. They keep the pistons from turning. 
 Thanks Bob.
 
 I’ve rebuilt calipers for a 2003 Mazda Protege5 before (love my wagons 😉) but feel like this job is better left to the pros.
 
 I wonder if paying to have them rebuilt is more or less than the $500 ISP West rebuilt sets?
 Jim Adney usually charges less than $100 for his parts/work rebuilds!!   :D
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			| Scotty D | Sun Jan 21, 2024 1:36 pm |  
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			| Just emailed Jim.  😃 |  |  
 
  
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			| Scotty D | Sun Jan 21, 2024 2:18 pm |  
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			| Mike Fisher wrote:			    	  Scotty D wrote:			    	  Bobnotch wrote:			   Those are the piston "anti roll" plates. They keep the pistons from turning. 
 Thanks Bob.
 
 I’ve rebuilt calipers for a 2003 Mazda Protege5 before (love my wagons 😉) but feel like this job is better left to the pros.
 
 I wonder if paying to have them rebuilt is more or less than the $500 ISP West rebuilt sets?
 Jim Adney usually charges less than $100 for his parts/work rebuilds!!   :D
 
 If this is the case then that man is a Saint!!
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			| Scotty D | Tue Jan 23, 2024 11:44 am |  
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			| I received a response from Jim and he’s on board! 
 Hopefully I’ll have them shipped out tomorrow. 😎
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			| Scotty D | Tue Jan 23, 2024 6:54 pm |  
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			| I mentioned earlier that when I bought this car the fuel pump was just hanging by the hoses under the front beam. There was only one vibration isolation mount still attached, and it was basically broken in half with one stud on the plate and the other on the mounting bracket. 
 Figured I’d order a set of new ones from Grainger.  Some times I just have to laugh at myself. No clue what I did on the website when ordering them, but when they showed up they were tiny! Like half the size of the originals.
 😂😂🤦🏼♂️
 
 
 
 
 Found out that ordering a proper sized replacement was going to run me $50.
 
 
 
 So I did what any sane auto owner would do and ran to LOWES to dig through the hardware aisle. I came up with a combination of small items that seem like they’ll fit the bill perfectly, and all for around $8. That’s a win-win in my book.
 
 
 
 
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			| Scotty D | Wed Jan 24, 2024 11:11 am |  
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			| Not knowing how this was assembled previously, I’m just winging it. But this is what I’ve come up with. The pump does stand a bit proud of the plate as assembled, it might be tight in the space below the tank. Let me know your thoughts. 
 
 
 
 
 
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			| EverettB | Wed Jan 24, 2024 4:19 pm |  
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			| I don't have any thoughts on whether there will be clearance issues but I will say that looks super clean! |  |  
 
  
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			| Scotty D | Wed Jan 24, 2024 5:10 pm |  
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			| EverettB wrote:			   I don't have any thoughts on whether there will be clearance issues but I will say that looks super clean! 
 Thanks Everett.  You just never know who might be crawling under your car.  :P
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