| Westy Racer |
Fri Jan 07, 2005 12:41 am |
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Thanks. I'm installing two switches on the drivers door and one on the passenger door, along with the BMW armrest & pocket. :wink:
That's the project for the weekend. Need to go buy some 1/8" hardboard to fab the panels from. |
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| Westy Racer |
Thu Jan 13, 2005 12:46 am |
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OK a little update here. That little crimp in the tube that holds it in place...
...well that isn't enough to hold up to the stress. (had my doubts but that's prototyping)
I'm going to take it back apart, pull the motor, pull the cable from the regulator tube and weld two locators to the tube. That way the motor will have something to push/pull against... other than only bent metal.
It's got torque baby! :wink: |
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| mikeoldcars |
Thu Jan 13, 2005 10:39 am |
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is there a part number on the window motors?
excellant conversion btw :) |
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| Westy Racer |
Sat Jan 15, 2005 10:30 am |
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Sorry but the tags with that info are gone. :cry:
Try these guys. Plenty BMW parts, great reference for part numbers for Bimmers.
Here is the motor you're looking for. Models it fits are listed with it so you can cross reference at your local parts yard. :wink: |
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| vw-traveller |
Thu Jun 02, 2005 9:08 pm |
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Hi
I love your idea, and i got some motors today at the local pick'n'pull! I got mine out of a 84 coupe bmw. Sure was wierd working on a non-vw.
I still have a question on where to bend the tube. Did you bend it on the ends that touch the drive motor? The picture isn't so clear.
thanx
tom |
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| vw-traveller |
Sat Oct 07, 2006 9:24 pm |
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All right, it didn't take me this long to put them in, actually it only took me a week-end, put i just wanted to post my experience.
A) The little backing plate, definatly weld that onto the regulator tube. Bending doesn't work vey long.
B) Make sure the tube is in the perfect position when you weld on the plate. On my driver side window it is and the window stops when it reaches the top, on the passanger side yiou can hear the motor still running once the window is up.
next project: making the rear lovered windows powered, since I always forget those when camping, and then realize it when they are flapping on the highway. |
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| chrisradioman |
Wed Sep 26, 2007 3:24 pm |
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| :D You are a genius I like it. |
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| mad.macs |
Fri Sep 28, 2007 8:00 pm |
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So, I haven't had much luck with this install.
The regulator tube is Very difficult to weld to (and I'm TIG welding).
There is no tolerance in the tube for any weld slag or deformation.
I tried a couple of hose clamps on it first, but those eventually gave way.
I had to order my motors from 2 different Junkyards and got 2 of the same motors, So now I need to figure out how to order the correct motor.
The first one I got was for the Driver door, but fit on the bus only on the Passenger side, So I ordered a Passenger side motor, but got another of the same.
Ugh- wish I had tried a SPAL window kit instead, By the time I get done with this it might have saved me time and money. |
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| Opossum |
Sat Sep 29, 2007 8:53 am |
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| I MiG welded on the outside of the tube, piling up metal to prevent slippage. The windows have been fine for several years. They do take a little bit of tweaking to get right. I used the rear BMW motors as stated. Good luck. |
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| GfunkBus76 |
Sat Sep 29, 2007 12:13 pm |
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I used motors from Maserati, same style motor though. I didn't weld though, so I'm not sure how sturdy it will be over long periods of use(bus not yet operational).
Fun upgrade though :). |
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| mad.macs |
Mon Oct 01, 2007 10:56 am |
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I'm pretty sure The Fronts and Rears are the same. There is also a righty and a lefty as you state. When you look at the pics you can see the gear is on the RH side of the regulator on one of the motors photo'd and on the LH side on the other. I got 2 of the ones with the gear on the RH side.
The junkyard was kind enough to send me the other motor and offered to to P/U the return shipping too! Along with the regulator plate they didn't send with the first motor. The lesson here is if you get the chance order both from the same yard if possible.
The Passenger side works GREAT. I have the drivers side regulator all modded so it should drop in once the correct motor arrives. |
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| mad.macs |
Fri Oct 05, 2007 9:31 pm |
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Stuff I Wish I had known.
Extracting the regulators from the Bus does require removing the wing window. Doing this requires you to; undo the 10mm Bolt at location 1, remove the sheet metal screw under the weather stripping, and move the weatherstripping out of the way at location 2, and then swing the window to the rear to location 3.
I found that by enlarging the Regulator holes in the door the Bimmer motor can be mounted with 2 bolts.
The regulators do need to have something welded onto them to hold the motors in place.
Here is how the Bavarians did it.
Here is one of mine.
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| davis911s |
Mon Nov 19, 2007 5:45 pm |
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I am half way through the install
What amp fuse did you use? I am thinking of using a 25Amp in line fuse
Shawn |
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| mad.macs |
Mon Nov 19, 2007 8:36 pm |
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25A Circuit breaker.
I kept poppin' fuses while trying to figure out the wiring for the SPAL window switches I installed.
I haven't tripped the breaker since I got the wiring correct. |
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| autiger78 |
Tue Nov 20, 2007 4:19 am |
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This one just got bookmarked...I love mods that don't seem more like hackjobs!
By the way, Gfunk, I like my odds of finding an 86 Bimmer better than the odds of stumbling on an 86 Maserati in the auto yards here in Alabama! :lol: |
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| chrisradioman |
Tue Nov 20, 2007 2:33 pm |
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autiger78 wrote: This one just got bookmarked...I love mods that don't seem more like hackjobs!
By the way, Gfunk, I like my odds of finding an 86 Bimmer better than the odds of stumbling on an 86 Maserati in the auto yards here in Alabama! :lol:
Didn't know you could book mark, how do yo do it? :oops: |
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| davis911s |
Tue Nov 20, 2007 5:00 pm |
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Ok drivers side is in. :lol: The vent window is a pain. :twisted:
Anyways the window is slow when going up. It is from the front felt window channel. I ended up bending this when I removed it during the install (dummy) :roll:
Anyways what is the CORRECT way to reinstall this felt?
When the regulator was out I cleaned an re-lubed it. I also bench tested the motor and regulator prior to installation and it was awesome. But now that there is tension it is way slower.
When I removed the front felt it is perfect so now I just need to get this installed RIGHT
Thoughts?
Shawn |
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| davis911s |
Tue Nov 20, 2007 5:03 pm |
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Quote:
Didn't know you could book mark, how do yo do it? :oops:
I think he just put this particular topic as a "favorite" on his computer. That is what I do
But also when you post a reply you can click the botton box
"Notify me when a reply is posted" that works well too
Shawn |
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| Dudder |
Wed Nov 21, 2007 1:35 pm |
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| Sweet |
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| Wild Bill |
Thu Jan 21, 2010 12:51 pm |
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Thought I would revive this old thread to see if anyone has done this upgrade lately?
I plan on doing the same upgrade except rig the up and down switch to work with the original window winder.
You know it looks like the old manual system but a slight up or down on the handle makes the electric motor work. (Saw it like that on Barrett Jackson Auction 55 Chevy)
Any thoughts on the easiest and most effective way to make it work properly? (Other than just leaving stock).
Thanks |
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