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Mon Jul 27, 2009 1:24 pm

Anyone here use Chassis Saver from Magnet Paints?

Wed Sep 02, 2009 8:30 am

65beeter wrote: Anyone here use Chassis Saver from Magnet Paints?

I used it on my panel I did it was ok I like the por 15 alot better though.

Thu Sep 17, 2009 4:29 am

So have you guys ever used Bilt Hamber product?
http://www.bilthamber.com/ Looking at tests on other forums it out performs alot of well known brands. :D

Fri Sep 18, 2009 12:06 pm

Quote: Here they are after hosing them off. The chlorine water completely took away the rust. The silver between the products is bare metal.

Ummm... does this mean a good chlorine soak is the new sand-blasting?? Seriously Why wouldn't that work, if the result was this clean? I'm thinking of my rusty, pitted muffler....

Fri Sep 18, 2009 2:00 pm

Just placed an order for the Masterseries stuff. Figure I should at least try and buy from the VW community.

NAES

Sat Oct 10, 2009 8:01 am

I've read this post and others on rust in VW's etc through and have some observations.

Rust is the combination of iron and oxygen. Remove the oxygen and iron cannot rust.

Electrolysis is a process where electrons conduct material away from a metal and it is slowly eaten away. The electrically hottest metal is the first to go. Take away the electrolyte (wet substance that conducts electricity) and electrolysis cannot occur.

Often rust and electrolysis show up together. Any compound that keeps oxygen and the electrolyte away will protect the metal. Protect from only one and the other can still occur.

The dip in chlorine probably distorted the test. Chlorine is a very reactive molecule / free radical and it may have altered the chemistry in all the paints and sealants. At the same time the paints were being attacked by the chlorine molecules altering the paint / sealants, electrolysis was introduced in those areas, perhaps perforating the sealants and paints. Electrolysis occurs in cars in salty areas because the salt that gets on the car attracts moisture from the air and then electrolysis occurs. In the test the chlorine did not simulate anything that a real life paint would incur. Common sea salt is NaCl which is sodium and chlorine, however the sodium metal is hotter than anything in a VW and it would bind the chlorine and make a salt. The chlorine in salt is not going to be released while on your car nor are you going to dip your car in a chlorine bath.

If it were me and I wanted the best protection possible I would look for a way to combat both. Perhaps a coating with a product that converted the existing rust to a more stable form (what bluing does), then prep and painting with something like POR15 followed up with zinc plating areas or zinc sacrifical annodes. Zinc is a hotter metal than steel or aluminum so it rots away first and slows electrolysis but a sealer would also be needed because the zinc does not keep oxygen away. If you just coated with a zinc paint eventually the zinc gets eaten away and oxygen attacks through the holes in the paint.

Last - that greenish paint you see on some replacement body parts is a paint that is rich in zinc. It helps protect the parts. New cars are dipped in zinc now as it helps slow the corrosion process. Aircraft have been painted with zinc chromate (that green paint) for years and it helps slow the metal from corroding. There are even some 9/11 theorists who contend that the type zinc chromate coating on the aircraft that hit the Pentagon was the wrong kind for the type of aircraft that hit the Pentagon, that it was a type used on later aircraft by Boeing.

Fri Nov 20, 2009 5:31 pm

artie325 wrote: No, my brother gave me a quart of por-15, so I bought some metal ready to do the job right.

A bit of a thread jump, but quick question for you guys. I have some pieces that have minor surface rust, but the majority of the item is clean with solid OG paint. So, even if I rough up the "good paint spots" and treat the entire panel with medal ready, with I have any adhesion issues with POR-15? Just don't want it to pull away like Artie325's floor pans.

Thu Dec 24, 2009 8:05 am

SAMBA VAN MAN wrote: So have you guys ever used Bilt Hamber product?
http://www.bilthamber.com/ Looking at tests on other forums it out performs alot of well known brands. :D

OK... Their DEOX-GEL looks awesome, and the price is right... But shipping to USA is a mystery until checkout. Has anyone ordered that DEOX-GEL from the USA and knows how much shipping is?

(EDIT: I got an email from Bilt Hamber... Shipping to WA state for a 5kg bucket of Deox Gel is 51 Euros ... I will stick to alternating between wire brush and naval jelly)

Sat Jan 02, 2010 9:35 am

Quote: The dip in chlorine probably distorted the test. Chlorine is a very reactive molecule / free radical and it may have altered the chemistry in all the paints and sealants.

insightful post... We should be careful to judge results simply from this single test.

I am going to go with the Masterseries stuff myself.

Mon Jan 04, 2010 12:46 pm

such a well thought out experiment. Have always wanted to do the same yet am hoping to find somebody who started something 5 or 10 years ago. I'll probably be dead before my own experiment pays off.

Thanks again and happy motoring, Mark

Mon Jan 04, 2010 12:47 pm

such a well thought out experiment. Have always wanted to do the same yet am hoping to find somebody who started something 5 or 10 years ago. I'll probably be dead before my own experiment pays off.

Thanks again and happy motoring, Mark

Sat Jan 23, 2010 6:30 pm

Prep is key to any of these. I wouldn't try to Paint Over Rust no matter what the manufacturer says. Don't take shortcuts and expect the best results. if you have rust, take care of it the right way, then protect the new metal.

I blasted my 64 chassis after I welded the new pans in. I made sure the seam at the tunnel was nice and tight (no seam sealer needed) and then I put two coats of masterseries silver on top & bottom, followed by one coat of their chassis black, top & bottom. Due to a change in plans this chassis has sat outside for over a year now. It currently has two inches of water sitting on it. I did put a light coat of regular Rustoleum black on the top since the Chassis black is not UV-rated. I am in Florida.

I don't have a current pic but the chassis looks as good now as it did when I first did it except for a little fading. There is a spot at the end of the cable tubes that were not protected and they have rust now.

I will use Masterseries on everything from now on. Chuck also answered every question I had even when I had attitude thinking the product wasn't all that. My problem was that the silver wasn't fully dry before putting the black on.

Sat Jan 23, 2010 6:38 pm

The pan when it was fresh

The pan after being outside for 8 months. The lighter color is paint overspray from using the pan as a workbench. Right after this I put a coat of Rustoleum on top.

It is still sitting outside and still has water sitting on it. :cry:

Sat Apr 10, 2010 1:41 am

patrickkryan wrote: Fresh steel

The paint, I am sorry about the spillover with the undercoating but it is on a plain panel so I do not think it will impact the test

The
Washington Test

In the Washington test, (one posted on the tree) Will the one one top get 1/10th the exposer compared to the one on the bottom getting all the others runoff?
Maybe it should be tilted the other way?

Mon Aug 09, 2010 12:39 pm

Why dont you guys look at Thermal Sprayed Zinc on pans, running boards and panels? It can be used to fill dents, rust holes, as a corrosion preventative and a decorative coatings such as brass, stainless steel, copper.

I think you guys in the USA have a company called "Rustbusters" check it out?

Tue Sep 07, 2010 9:26 am

Lee. wrote: The prep is the key, just like any type of bodywork.
I'm getting ready to restore some seats, i still have some MS from the og post. I'll use that to seal them all up after I prep them.

Just like applying any other paint I guess. Even when painting a house; prep is the key.

FWIW I used Master Series on my outdoor gas grill as a test. (I've used Rust Bullet and POR15 on other stuff.) The main body is stainless but the frame & side tables etc are steel and rusted up here in <1 yr.
My process:
1. degreased it all; first w/ soap & water then w/ wax/grease remover
2. wire-wheeled the loose rust
3. prepped the metal w/ Rust Mort & rinsed according to the label
4. two coats of MS applied w/ foam brush according directions
5. rattle canned the visible portions w/ Rustoleum "Epoxy" paint just 'cause I wanted it black. The bottom of the shelves etc have no paint over the MS.

Two yrs later and no rust and the black Rustoleum has not peeled or reacted. It has faded due to UV but it's holding up as well as expected and the MS seems to be holding the rust at bay.

Sat Sep 18, 2010 11:09 pm

Lee. wrote:

Here is the orientation of the panels.

I'll make sure to label each picture from now on.

I found the panels and tossed them in the trash last weekend. Here's the final pic....In the end, after 5 years, nothing worked. :lol:

Sat Dec 11, 2010 4:46 pm

Theres no substitute for sandblasting and paint.

Thu Jan 13, 2011 11:49 pm

DragNut wrote: Theres no substitute for sandblasting and paint.

substitute glass,garnet,blackbeauty

Thu Mar 31, 2011 2:42 pm

It looks like most of the roughness on the POR 15 areas is from the paint peeling as opposed to rust, so if you primer/paint over top I imagine you'd have much better results.

Makes me feel less worried about my POR 15 abuse in some hard to reach areas :lol: