How bad is this...?

[bnam]

I was replacing the fuel pump on my 71 vert...

Removed the existing leaking pump and started to remove the pump intermediary flange base (it was cracked and I had a new one). As is tried to pull it out, it broke off leaving portion of the lower cylindrical portion stuck in the hole.

I thought I'd try to reove that part by screwing in a lag bolt and pulling it out, but I could not find one locally that was the right size.

So finally I took the new base and cut it just above where the old one had broken off (just below the tapering portion that extends from the flange).

The push rod seemed to move freely. I installed the new pump and the pump works.

Is it ok to leave it like this? (The lower portion is stuck pretty firmly in the lower hole. It seemed to me like the only way to remove it was break open the case.)

Or should I be worried?

I can buy a new base, but I really don't want to split the case -- unless there is a disaster waiting to happen.


B

[MetalKing00]

I would think that over time, it could eventually work loose, which would be bad news bears.
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A man needs a little madness, or else he doesn't dare cut the rope and be free.

[Bashr52]

The hole and push rod housing are a tapered fit, unless it breaks it cant work loose and fall through the hole.

[MetalKing00]

nevermind then

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A man needs a little madness, or else he doesn't dare cut the rope and be free.

[Cusser]

Right, I had to chisel my broken flange stub out, got the pieces out through the bottom pan.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Russ Wolfe]

If the stub is still in there, run a tap into it, and pull it with a piece of threaded rod. That is how we did it at the dealers. In fact, I think where was an actual special tool.
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[Stuggi]

Same shit happened to me, I just split the case and chiseled the bugger out of there.
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[BigSky4130]

same thing happened to me just break the old stuck piece apart and it will come out in your next oil change.

[jamesdagg]

"just split the case" "just" he says. LOL

"Just " do a heater channel replacement for me will you?

Jim
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'72 FI Westy
'71 Super rear inside defrost vents no longer available

[bnam]

The bottom part is not going to fall out as it is in a tappered hole, plus there is not enough clearance below for it to fall out. The new upper part that've put in is pretty well aligned (push rod moves freely).

Perhaps there is no reason to remove it at all...

B

[Bugorsh]

With the fuel pump base in two pieces it may not allow the pushrod to be lubricated sufficiently and may cause premature wear or failure. I would remove the broken section and replace the base with a new undamaged one. I'm sure you can extract the broken section without splitting the case using the suggestions mentioned in the posts above. I would not try to break it into pieces though, pull it out in one piece if at all possible.
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[bnam]

My observation is that the pushrod was splash lubricated through 2 holes. One hole is at the point where it broke off and the other hole is above it (in the now new part). Now instead of the lower hole there is a full circle exposed to splash lubrication (at the same level as the previous lower hole), and there still is the hole for lubricating the upper portion. This leads me to conclude that lubrication will be the same (or better)... but perhaps there is a flaw in this line of thinking..

It seems to me that theoretically this flange could have easily been a 2 piece design, but it would have been a pain to install, uninstall the lower piece -- and alignment of the lower and upper parts would not be guaranteed (though not impossible) leading to more wear.

B

[fastcarloon]

[Joel]

[djkeev]

[Tomarse]

[Lightnin' Bug]

Your fix will probably be fine.

Since you even bothered to ask the forum about this, it is a sign that you don't really like it not being done correctly. It will nag you until you fix it or forget it.

I recommend spending the $0.63 (or whatever it is) at the local Home Depot (or equivalent) and get the lag bolt. Heat the end of it so it is hot enough to melt plastic and screw it in to the stranded flange piece. Then leverage the stupid thing out.

This is easy to do and doesn't take a long time. It isn't expensive and it doesn't take special tools.

If it breaks up, remove any pieces you can find through the bottom pan like Cusser said. Any unrecovered parts are plastic and won't really cause damage - at least according to the guys on this forum that were never able to recover the pieces that they lost in this manner.

I've done this before it is pretty easy and kind of fun.......if you like working on stuff.
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[vw57drvr]

Once you get that piece out, next time you try to pull it out, loosen the case bolts near the pump. Sometimes it will give you just enough for it to slip out.
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60 Rock Grey Vert

[mondshine]

Check this link:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-QDI74acLY

[Cusser]

I chiseled the bottom part of mine into the engine, cleaned the parts after off the strainer, no long-term issues.

Good tip to sand flange a little smaller on that video.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297