spring loaded pushrod tubes. Are these good?

[oldvolkz]

Looking to replace 4 pushrod tubes. spring loaded ones. I cant take the heads off right now due to $$$$. so spring loaded one will due. i saw these on ebay and was wondering if they are good. I read somewhere NOT to use nylon.
thankshttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Air-Cooled-Pushrod-...2189wt_810
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"if you want peace, you must work for justice"

[glutamodo]

Yes - don't use plastic or nylon - so that auction you linked to, don't use those. I'd only use those if they were the only ones around and I had to get a engine going immediately. Same goes for this style - these are metal but are basically the same as those nylon ones, only made out of aluminum:

No, the only type I like are the kind with internal O-rings - in fact it was for the late model water-boxer Vanagon engines that VW came up with an internal O-ring design for replacement tubes and similar styles were then made for older aircooled models. There are two styles with internal O-rings, ones with the spring on the inside like the VW tubes, made by Scat - and then there are a few companies that make them with the spring on the outside. JayCee is one, CSP out of Germany is another (expensive as hell though) and EMPI has some but I'd avoid those. The Scat style is more like what VW had for the Vanagon engine, with the spring inside the tube.

VW/Vanagon : (although I have seen watercooled vanagon tubes under the 070109337/025109337 part numbers shown as coming with an external spring now) These won't fit a bug, just an example of VW's part:

Scat:

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C15%2D20175

Jaycee and others make it with an external spring - I'd avoid EMPI versions though. I've also heard that Jaycee's springs are so strong that they over-squish the pushrod tube seals.

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=1395

http://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=C31%2D109%2D337%2D111

Also - although some people claim they are better, personally I do not recommend the metal type with dual jam nuts on them - they cannot expand or contract to match the engine's warm up or cool down cycles. That's why stock ones have those "accordian" sections on each end, they are springy enough to keep good tension on at all times.

-Andy

[oldvolkz]

thanks Andy.

Ive done a lot of research and the Scat style from cip1.com where recommended for me from another Sambaonian.
And where the ones I was leaning towards.

Wish they sold half the pack
Just had to ask the question.
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"if you want peace, you must work for justice"

[runamoc]

[oldvolkz]

WOW. that is scary...

Ordered my Scat style pushrod tubes from Cip last night.
can't wait to get them, tired of the damn leak
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[hsosa1]

On these kind of Tubes to replace them. Do you have to remove the rockers and take out the pushrod and then cut the pushrod tube with tin snips to remove the tube and then install the spring style tube ? I know it sounds redundant but wanted to make sure. I have a bent up pushrod tube and was thinking of replacing it with the spring type tube. Scat seems to be the ticket .
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Just Cruzin Sur Califas VW Car Club est♤1998

[Cusser]

I'd say pull out the pushrod, put on gloves, and pull down, they should bend enough so you can pull them out. Or you can cut.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[oldvolkz]

[hemifalcon]

I bought a set of the JayCee pushrod tubes to replace my all my tubes, because of one leaker.. they are pretty easy, but not really easy..
You have to remove the rockers, or really loosen them so you can pull out the pushrods. then, get some tinsnips and cut the originals, or they will bend enough while trying to cut them that you can pull them out. Then, clean up the sealing surface really good. I know that if you do a search, you can find some different info on experience with the different type of seals. I used some of the brown 'tar' sealer on my seals and on the sealing portions of the head and case.. I'm pretty much leak free from the pushrod tubes with the. It takes some hand strength to get the pushrod tubes compressed, then make sure you don't cut the seals when you are positioning them..
Good luck to you.
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[kenshapiro2002]

[alexvw]

[Max Welton]

One thing that has always worried me about the spring-loaded tubes ... how can they account for the little angle needed at the ends? Notice that each tube meets the head at a little different angle. Same thing on the case end. The stock tubes account for this because you stretch each end out just a little before installing. They are then compressed when you begin torquing down the head and each end takes on exactly the right angle.

Max
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[hemifalcon]

I imagined that it wasn't a big deal because of the "ball-seat" type of seals that are at both ends of the pushrods tube. The angle is not very severe and those seals allow for a slight deviation from a "straight-in" alignment of the tubes. A little sealant on the seals and there's no leaks..
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'62 VW Bug Sedan (Ruby Red)
Resto pics> http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v697/hemifalcon/Bug%20resto/?start=all&paginator=top

[bugguy1967]

I have too thought about the angle, but the seals conform very well if you have good ones (Elring)
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[Frank_Hopfner]

Hello!
I also got problems with oil leak at the Pushrod Tubes on my 1200.
Here in Germany there is a lot of advertisment for those made: But i found nobody ever used them.


http://www.syngear.co.uk/shop.php#!/Pushrod-Tube-Set/p/15767682/category=9967523

I'm avoid using a teleskopic system due the Middle O-Ring that could leak.
Any expirience with the Syngear Parts?
Thank you,

Niko[/quote]

[glutamodo]

Okay, I skimmed over the videos of those, that design is one I've not seen before... it kind of looks like it it's designed for the 1300-1600, it might be too long for the shorter 1200. As for how it works, I think it would be OK, but I also think the metal dual-internal-Oring style works fine as well.