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Stereo Systems installation in Splitties
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oldschool64bus
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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 11:19 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cartmann32 wrote:
themacnut wrote:
Install looks awesome. Nice work!


Thanks bud

These are fun cars/trucks/bus's to work on.
Owner has a slammed Bug too...and I'll work on that guy too.

Already have some orders in to make the pods for a few other people.


Nice job on Ryan's SC, you ever come hang with the Pilots? I need to do something for my 6 1/2" as they are just stuffed down in the nose for now Laughing
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cartmann32
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PostPosted: Thu May 19, 2011 11:46 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oldschool64bus wrote:


Nice job on Ryan's SC, you ever come hang with the Pilots? I need to do something for my 6 1/2" as they are just stuffed down in the nose for now Laughing


Thanks
I'd like to come hang with you guys...but I don't own anything VW....except my Trike....but it's not running...give me a few weeks and Ryan and I'll will have that beast rolling...then I'll show up.
Let me know if you want me to make you anything for your speakers...I'm down for whatever.
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Vintage Idiot
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 18, 2011 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hope everyone is doing fine...haven't had too much time to do much to my new-to-me single cab, but thanks to this website I managed to take care of some little things and found those locks made of unobtainium for the '67 treasure chest.

Wanted to shoe a pic of my stereo...bought a cheap ass "motorcycle stereo" off of ebay for about $30...wouldn't recommend for a bike, but fit perfect and only had to make on small drill hole to bolt down the PVC pipe I clamped the speakers on. Sounds fine enough for me. Definitely better than the sound of a factory installed one back in the day.

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driverlost
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 3:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another great thread I've been watching and thought I would share my set up.

I just scored a 1960 Automatic brand all transistor radio on eBay for $4.95. Set me back $15.00 with shipping. I made sure the holes would line up with no hacking and went to hacking on the radio.

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I gutted the cassette player out of an old Panasonic radio and put the 2 together. So now its an FM only radio with an input for my iPod.

Off:
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On:
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My Panel had a radio back in its day, so I used the stock speaker holder in my parts stash for a center channel speaker.
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I also stashed two other satellite speakers under the dash out of sight with no hacking.
Drivers side:
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I even added a little 40 watt amp to help the 2 outside speakers. All hidden out of sight and no loss to the partial tray.
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iPod plugs run through an extra ash tray I cut up.
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This topic has been a great help for these ideas!

Thanks,

Rob
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BarryL Premium Member
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 4:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tight! So did you use the tape head's input wires for the Ipod? Did it have pre-amp out or did you use the high-out into the amp? I love conflations like yours. Original knobs should fit that, if you find some.
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driverlost
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 04, 2011 7:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks! I started to use the old tape head input and ran into how to switch it. The old school cassette player had a micro slide switch that would move as the cassette was put in. 6 wires. d'oh! Feed line to the amp that closed to cassette or radio for each channel. I started thinking of double pole, double throw switches and got real at that point. Laughing Dangling switch to mess with or aborted project as I launch it from frustration. You know how some projects start pushing the time invested to out come value mark lol.

So I just went with the RCA into the amp for the iPod. Next Radio donor will have RCA in and out. For sure the best option and possibly worth a redo some day.

I had cool knobs with the old radio but they are the center blade type mount and the new radio has the flat cut. So I'll be on the look out for old school knobs.
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BRANDEN HOY
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PostPosted: Thu Dec 01, 2011 4:01 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

driverlost wrote:
Thanks! I started to use the old tape head input and ran into how to switch it. The old school cassette player had a micro slide switch that would move as the cassette was put in. 6 wires. d'oh! Feed line to the amp that closed to cassette or radio for each channel. I started thinking of double pole, double throw switches and got real at that point. Laughing Dangling switch to mess with or aborted project as I launch it from frustration. You know how some projects start pushing the time invested to out come value mark lol.

So I just went with the RCA into the amp for the iPod. Next Radio donor will have RCA in and out. For sure the best option and possibly worth a redo some day.

I had cool knobs with the old radio but they are the center blade type mount and the new radio has the flat cut. So I'll be on the look out for old school knobs.



Maybe try this? Assuming the knobs will fit over the new stems... pull the little blades out of the old knobs, dip the new stems in some vaseline, put a generous dab of 5 minute epoxy into the knob and press onto the new stem... wait 5 minutes and pull the knob off. Rinse, repeat and Viola! Old school knobs on new school radio stems. It's worth a shot. I used a silimar trick to "rebuild" my keyfob for my truck alarm after the little plastic corner broke off. I can still open it up and replace batteries as needed. I filled the 1/2 of the fob I didn't want epoxied with vaseline and the epoxy dried to the non-greased side.
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driverlost
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 04, 2011 4:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

BRANDEN HOY wrote:

Maybe try this? Assuming the knobs will fit over the new stems... pull the little blades out of the old knobs, dip the new stems in some vaseline, put a generous dab of 5 minute epoxy into the knob and press onto the new stem... wait 5 minutes and pull the knob off. Rinse, repeat and Viola! Old school knobs on new school radio stems. It's worth a shot. I used a silimar trick to "rebuild" my keyfob for my truck alarm after the little plastic corner broke off. I can still open it up and replace batteries as needed. I filled the 1/2 of the fob I didn't want epoxied with vaseline and the epoxy dried to the non-greased side.


Awesome idea. I will try that out and see if it works.
_________________
Rob

May the war on Air vs Water end in my lifetime that we may all come together and enjoy the hobby.
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GOOT
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 19, 2011 8:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqNPo4E0k68&lis...ature=plcp

I still need to take pics, but the system consists of (2) 5 1/4" JL audio 2 way speakers rated at 60watts rms a piece with a mini amp/ipod hookup that puts out 40 watts rms per channel all mounted in the spare tire well.
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Sambafraser
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How big is the space below the 1/4 window on a Kombi door? I was just thinking that would be a good place to fit a small recessed tweeter. The Mk4 on VW Golf /Passats use a 3cm tweeter like in the picture below. The white circle next to the door mirror. These are good for adding clarity. But they need to aimed at you to really benifit.
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oldschool64bus
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 1:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

GOOT wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqNPo4E0k68&lis...ature=plcp

I still need to take pics, but the system consists of (2) 5 1/4" JL audio 2 way speakers rated at 60watts rms a piece with a mini amp/ipod hookup that puts out 40 watts rms per channel all mounted in the spare tire well.


I need to run an amp to my 6 1/2s BAD to keep up with my oldschool Fosgate Power 810's. My kids wanted me to make a video so I let them turn it up for a song Laughing http://youtu.be/TUTj9Tzv5jw
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GOOT
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 7:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oldschool64bus wrote:
GOOT wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqNPo4E0k68&lis...ature=plcp

I still need to take pics, but the system consists of (2) 5 1/4" JL audio 2 way speakers rated at 60watts rms a piece with a mini amp/ipod hookup that puts out 40 watts rms per channel all mounted in the spare tire well.


I need to run an amp to my 6 1/2s BAD to keep up with my oldschool Fosgate Power 810's. My kids wanted me to make a video so I let them turn it up for a song Laughing http://youtu.be/TUTj9Tzv5jw


That video makes me want to throw a few subs in my panel now. Blaha!!!
That thing quakes man!!!! Sweet panel!!! Cool
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oldschool64bus
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

GOOT wrote:
oldschool64bus wrote:
GOOT wrote:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PqNPo4E0k68&lis...ature=plcp

I still need to take pics, but the system consists of (2) 5 1/4" JL audio 2 way speakers rated at 60watts rms a piece with a mini amp/ipod hookup that puts out 40 watts rms per channel all mounted in the spare tire well.


I need to run an amp to my 6 1/2s BAD to keep up with my oldschool Fosgate Power 810's. My kids wanted me to make a video so I let them turn it up for a song Laughing http://youtu.be/TUTj9Tzv5jw


That video makes me want to throw a few subs in my panel now. Blaha!!!
That thing quakes man!!!! Sweet panel!!! Cool


that nasty rattle you hear is a hack job repair, someone put a camper pop up vent on the bus at one time and then "fixed" it by tacking in a piece of sheet metal from the inside and filling the topside with bondo Rolling Eyes there is 4 or 5 tacks on the whole thing so when the bass hits the corners just vibrate like hell
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zcruisers
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PostPosted: Wed Dec 21, 2011 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sambafraser wrote:
How big is the space below the 1/4 window on a Kombi door? I was just thinking that would be a good place to fit a small recessed tweeter. The Mk4 on VW Golf /Passats use a 3cm tweeter like in the picture below. The white circle next to the door mirror. These are good for adding clarity. But they need to aimed at you to really benifit.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


It doesn't have to be there since the window doesn't roll down like the one in the picture. It can be anywhere on the panel or up near the visor if you want to keep the door panel looking clean.

Be Great Cool
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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 11:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am in the same situation as you are. How to mount and hide (keep the vintage look) a system .

I am somewhat impressed with this set up. The speaker mounts with the bent pipe almost look as though they belong. If you just used one elbow for each speaker and mounted them under your tray just above the headlight pod, you would get good stereo separation.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/794464.jpg

gordo.
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scottvw
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 12:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is the the system I just put in my bus.

Front Speaker housings.

So I have gotten to the point that I need some tunes for the bus. I am going to go the amp route to run my XM. I called Crutchfield and they got me all of the stuff I needed.

I started on the front speakers. I didn't want to cut into the door panels or the front kick panels so I made 2 tubes for my 4" front speakers. I was going to try and mount them on the parcel tray but there really isn't enough room. I will more than likely mount them to the bottom of the tray with the T brackets I mounted to the bottom of the tube.

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I finally have tunes and man does it sound good. I bought all of my components from Crutchfield. I called them up and was lucky enough to get one of their sales guys named Brian. I told him exactly what I wanted to do and he put it all together. I didn't need one extra piece of hardware to do the job.....he nailed it. It cost me $725 total. Based on what I was quoted at Car Toys, this was a much better spend.

I basically have a JL Audio volume control that hooks into my amp that I can run my XM Inno through. 2 4" speakers up front, 1 8" Bazooka/Amp, and 2 6X9's on boxes under the seat.

I have included my parts list in case any of you are interested in copying what I did. I definitely have an appreciation for installing sound equipment. It took me 2 evenings to do it.

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I have a toggle switch to power the amps. The nob to the right is the volume control. I plan on putting my old stock radio back in.

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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 7:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've always thought the space near the rear hatch hinge covers would be a good spot for a pair of 6x9s. build boxes and have them completely covered side to side with acoustic cloth so it only looks like headliner. Not sure if that space is as desirable on a westy.

Gordo.
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oldschool64bus
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 7:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

flemcadiddlehopper wrote:
I've always thought the space near the rear hatch hinge covers would be a good spot for a pair of 6x9s. build boxes and have them completely covered side to side with acoustic cloth so it only looks like headliner. Not sure if that space is as desirable on a westy.

Gordo.


wasnt there a factory option for a rear speaker that was mounted back there?
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Sambafraser
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2011 11:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The recessed speaker with headliner material speaker cover ís a good idea.
I saw a German registered 1989 Ruf CTR a while back and I was particularly impressed by the intergrated roll cage instalation.
It was wrapped in around the roll cage with the same Porsche headline material (the dotted stuff they have in a VW) so that the cage and car blended together.
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Dasdubber
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fibreglass makes mounting options virtually endless - unfortunately the shallow depth of the splitty doors and nose makes it a challenge to fit a deep woofer/driver in comfortably. Here is our most recent (and most complex) installation using 2 x amps, active three way front stage (with splits in the doors and four woofers in the nose), rear splits in the corners and 2 10in subs in the roof.....lots of fabrication and wiring!

This is a rear roof sub enclosure so we didn't have to use the under rear seat area (filled with storage draw and ECU etc etc).
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Fronts were done in a similar way:
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And rears:
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Last edited by Dasdubber on Thu Feb 02, 2012 5:34 am; edited 1 time in total
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