Holley 2100 / 2110 (bugspray) in a 1200 cc / 40 hp

[jwanders32]

Perhaps this will become a thread, but thought I would list what I have found with installing a Holley bugspray in a 40 hp motor.

I first had this vision of a dual carb setup. Soon found the intakes were scarce and expensive, so I sold the pict 34's I had planed on using.

Met a new friend in my neighborhood that had a bunch of VW parts and was active in his day. He still has a Chenowth and a Manx Towd. Didn't have any single port dual intakes for a 1200, but he pulled out a nice single port double chamber intake and said I could have it.
This is how I headed down the bugspray road.

The first decision I had to make was to either use the 300 cfm version or the smaller 200 cfm version that has a model number of R6244. Through my research, I found that any motor under a 1776 cc should use the 200 cfm model.

Found a nice carb on ebay and won the auction for $27.00 + ship. Surprised to find it complete and in beter shape than the picture. Won an auction for a rebuild kit a couple weeks later. $9.99.

After realizing the that an oil cooler inside the fan shroud was not optimum, I switched to a doghouse fan shroud for which I got an adapter and a new oil cooler from my friend.

The first modification I needed to make was for the vacuum port. The inlet (inside the carb, was right where the flange is on the manifold. Dilled a hole deeper from the vacuum port toward the shared carve out area in the throttle body. Then drilled from the carve out area to meet the new deeper hole.

Test fit time showed that I had to drill out the mounting holes for the adapter to 8 mm. Fan shroud sat high and was hitting on the case. Scribe and grind with a dremel tool for an hour to get to fit with gen stand and generator. Next the manifold and carb.. Not good. Back of the carb where the float bowl is, was hitting the fan shroud. Thought about this one a few days. Best solution was to cut a hole in the shroud. Looked at some plumbing caps and didn't find I would get the depth. I needed about 3/4 of an inch depth to clear. Solution came in the form of a tomatoe paste can. I cut 3/4" depth of the bottom of the can and then used it as a template on the fan shroud in the place where the back of the carb was hitting. Thought I'd try the dremel stone. Very slow. Cutting wheel on the dremel worked best. Cut then move it so a straight wheel cuts in a circle. Out popped the piece. Bummer! Two inner baffles in the way. Dremel stone times Went through three of them to get the 3/4" depth. I've really developed a love/hate relationship with the dremel on this project. Bottom of the tomatoe paste can fit nice. JB weld secured it at the base on the baffle and on the entire perimeter of the can. It actually looked nice. Except for the one spot where the dremel stone skipped across the nice chrome surface. At least it's at top and behind the carb. Sweet, it fits. Fast forward. Next obstacle is the throttle cable through the fan shroud and the throttle arm on the carb. They don't match up. Realized I would need to cut the the throttle cabl tube that goes through the shroud. I left only a half inch on the part that sticks out from the fan shroud toward the manifold / carb.. Toyed with bending copper to redirect the cable. Let's just leave that as a failure. What has worked is a 5 1/4 inch compression spring that is slightly larger in diameter than the throttle tube through the fan shroud (i'll post a pic later). Test run. The first thing I found out with the test run, was that I underestimated the fuel needs of a 40 hp. I had the accelerator pump on the carb at the lowest setting of the three available. No power on take off. Ended with the highest pump setting (farthest back hole toward the float bowl). The idle on this thing is superb. Other discussions I read had said you would not get enough vacuum to advance the distributor. They were wrong. Lots of vacuum. I may even go with a heavier spring in the distributor. I thought for sure I would only need the smallest jets, so I installed a set of .40's. Smallest I could find. Way too lean with no upper rpm power. Going to try the .47's next. The other issue is that the throttle arm is only able to move 3/4 of the way. This is due to the bottom of the carbs throttle arm. The throttle cable linkage hits this and is not able to fully rotate with the barrel nut. I'll be modifying this with the dremel stone when I pull off the carb to change the jets. I'll take pictures too and post them. Couple weeks from now since I'm heading out on vacation this weekend. The last thing still to contend with is the choke. Obviously this has a 6 volt choke. I'm running 12 volt. The choke gets smoking hot when the motor is running. It works, but it's so hot, you can smell it. Not sure if there is a wiring fix or a 12 volt choke replacement for this. I have another post with this question. When this is done, I hope it will save someone some time or at least money if they decide to ditch the effort. Please feel free to post the good, the bad, and the ugly that you may have encountered.

[mark tucker]

I thought you were running a 12 voly choke and needed a 6 volt choke. as I recall just about all holys are the same !!! just get one from a 4bbl.I did run electric choke on mine whenI had them on the car I remember the wiring now.I ran them in single and duels then went to the 44hpmx's. I ahd also added powervalves to at leastone of the bugspray carbs, possiably both. you dont need to cut the shroud, just leen the carb back a little unless there is something rong with your intake,as far as your addvance you want it addvancing fast. Ithink I had 67 jets in mine but they were the 300 cfm with a lot of work to them for better flow.they were great carbs,but just not enough cfm.It's been 8~10 years since I ran them. just be sure no rain can get to the airfilter, it will funnell it all right down to the cylinders...........been there done that, made a hat.
on a side note I remember back in the 80's when we closed up the speed shop to switch over to a performance marina, we had a new bugspray in the holly box, and it went into the trash. as did somuch stuff that was just in the way and had to go.I dont think there was a ebay back then.

[Slow 1200]

I'm not sure that vacum port will provide the right signal for that vacuum only distributor

[mark tucker]

there is a angled portion of the casting just above it that should be the ported vac.

[Slow 1200]

wouldn't that be fine for a SVDA? but not for a 40hp Vacuum only distributor I think

[Glenn]

Every engine i've seen with a Bugspray had a 019 or 010 distributor.
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Glenn
74 Beetle Specs | 74 Beetle Restoration | 2180cc Engine
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[jwanders32]

Guess I'm breaking new ground. I'll post a picture of how I made the vacuum modification when I get back from vacation. When I pull the carb to put in the new jets, I can show pics of all the mods I had to make. Thanks for all the input.

[mark tucker]

I saw one with 09, ran great.

[jwanders32]

A bit of a hack job, but at least it's hidden by the carb. Had to use a dremel cut off wheel and grinding stones for the internal baffles. Gave me just enough room with this larger aftermarket dog house shroud.

[jwanders32]

This picture shows how I drilled the hole in the "common area" of the two chambers and met up with the hole that I drilled through the external port. I goofed and drilled an extra hole as you can see. No harm done.

[jwanders32]

I used a dremel tool and stone to cut out the bottom portion of the throttle arm. Because of the angle of the throttle cable, this was needed to allow the cable end to pivot and fully open the throttle plates.

[mark tucker]

that will not give you ported timing signal, just manifold vac witch usualy is not what you want. so howzitrun?

[morymob]

I ran the 200 bugspray setup one and VW's 009 for awhile and itran real good, getting squirter pump working right at 1st only prob, never used choke.

[johnwesley]

I have a 2110 that has factory ported vacuum. Is works good with a svda. Adds 10 to the timing at 3000 rpm for a total of 40 advance
_________________
Thanks to DRD and KCR. Great people to work with

[johnwesley]

here is the 2110 on the engine. I dont have the vacuum tube hooked up yet in the pic. brand new engine and just getting it going.

_________________
Thanks to DRD and KCR. Great people to work with

[mark tucker]

yup the acc pump setup was crap,I used some quadrajet seals & reworked the linkage & other stuff too, the felt packing is crap, thats where I put the green quadrajet seal, 2 of them I think with greessee between them& also polished the rod so it didnt eat up seals.
the 09 curve is hell with bugspray untill you recurve it.the vac dist may be best if you cant recurve the 09.

[johnwesley]

I am running lean with the stock jetting. Getting some lean surging and oil temps are high. I am stepping up from the 59 jet to a 62 and see what that does for me. I also pulled some timing out and the sp motor seems to like that as part throttle response is better
_________________
Thanks to DRD and KCR. Great people to work with

[theboz]

wondering what happened to the story of this carb? i was looking into doing same thing..??

[reservoirdubs]

Tried this on a 36 hp. Couldn’t get the clearance I needed for the linkage. Carb linkage was right on top of the distributor wires 😞
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1960 Canadian Custom
1970 Double Cab
1972 Porsche 914

[spencerfvee]

hi every one .i ran and drag raced holley bug sprays in the 1970s this is what i found out to make them run . first off he did not have to cut the fan housing they made a adapter to move the carb for ward so the carb would not hit the fan housing .on 40hp motors . a 200 cfm holley bug spray works the best .the 300cfm carb is way to big for any street motor .i only used the 300cfm carb for racing . you have to lower the float using a 3/16 drill bit .the bug sprays don't like a lot of fuel pressure i ran 1lbs to 1 1/2 lbs of fuel pressure .i used 50 main jets on my 200 cfm holley carb . the bug spray carbs work best with a dizy set up for 12 to 14 degs intl. timing. all in by 2,8oo rpm a total of 32 degs timing bug sprays run best with out a vac .dizy . they do like pre heat to the manifold. back then they ate spark plugs lol the plugs did not last long back then i found that champion L82Y plugs lasted the best or L87Yplugs. don't run a open plenum type manifold that has a big hole . run a 1.1/4 " tube ram manifold .all so use a stack about 2 1/2" to 3" high to stop fuel stand off . with out a stack on a vw .it wants to make a fuel fog out of the top of the carb it can climb up to from 3" to 5" above the top of the carb at high RPM .all so guys back then did not run a acc.pump they dismantled the acc pump. i all ways ran mine on the lowest pump shot . i must say this . they are not the best carb to use .there are better carbs out there now a days . but if you love the old school look go for it holley sold a lot of them for $59.00 lol have fun. just my two cents take it or leave it spencerfvee