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Phishman068
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Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1998
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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syncrodoka
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Joined: December 27, 2005
Posts: 12300
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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 Posted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 6:33 pm Post subject: |
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| Hair spray is a old trick for bike grips. It acts like a lubricant when sprayed on but is very sticky when dry. That probably works for the OP's intentions for the hose. |
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insyncro
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Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 6:50 pm Post subject: |
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| syncrodoka wrote: |
| Hair spray is a old trick for bike grips. It acts like a lubricant when sprayed on but is very sticky when dry. That probably works for the OP's intentions for the hose. |
So many uses.
Yup, plenty of experience with dirt bikes here.
For cooling hoses...in the cooling system, Loctite 518 is recommended as it does not dry, acts a lubricant for installing and removing the hoses and seals incredibly well. |
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insyncro
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Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 7:01 pm Post subject: |
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| Phishman068 wrote: |
So aquanet hair spray makes coolant hoses slip nicely?
never heard this....
I was just going to compliment the liberal and strategic application of grease (and GOOD grease! CV2 grease is pretty affordable on amazon by the way....).
Grease is the ultimate corrosion resistance. Wax is sweet, but grease is awesome.
If I could legally and reasonably coat my whole bus in GOOD Grease, I would.
I may.
: ) |
You are a sailor Dude.
Swab the deck, grease and wax away.
It has worked for, well, ever.
While first discussing a plan of action for his vans restorations,
I would refer to his build van as the USS Derek Drew 
I have to find a picture he sent me of his "greased" rear trailing arm bushings.
Hopefully they will not have to be touched any time soon. |
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syncrodoka
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Joined: December 27, 2005
Posts: 12300
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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| Posted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 7:05 pm Post subject: |
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| insyncro wrote: |
| I have to find a picture he sent me of his "greased" rear trailing arm bushings. |
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Phishman068
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Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1998
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 7:16 pm Post subject: |
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Bingo  |
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Phishman068
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Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1998
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Sat Oct 05, 2013 7:30 pm Post subject: |
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Grease attracts dirt which is why I use it on mating surfaces and wipe the excess that squeezes out when they are joined and fastened.
I agree with Craig that it is great for certain jobs, but disagree that exposed flat surfaces are best protected with grease. |
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insyncro
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Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 6:11 am Post subject: Crud Thug seam removal |
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Many ask how to efficiently remove old seam sealer.
My choice of tool is a Snap On Crud Thug.
It can be found under different names..MDX, rotobrush.....
I prefer this tool and method as the stainless steel brush, not only removes the sealer, but preps the surface of the metal without distorting it.
I do sandblast the inner seam as much as possible with the vacuum blaster shown earlier in this thread in the areas that have advanced rust.
This is what I started with:
Two passes with the Crud Thug:
I use the razor knife to make some incisions into the deeper sealer to allow the brush to dig it out.
I use a narrower brush to get all the way back into the seam.
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tschroeder0
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Joined: April 14, 2008
Posts: 2098
Location: Boulder CO
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| Posted: Thu Oct 17, 2013 8:00 am Post subject: |
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Those seams are looking just like mine after the angle grinder with a stiff wire bristle, i have also been using a dremel with the small (thin) cutting wheel. With the dremel at a 90 degree to the seam you can insert the cutting wheel and get pretty deep into the seam (almost always to find some rust originating from the inside!). The inside seam is what I am finding to be the real problem.
Thanks for this thread, it has been very helpful in my own striping project.
Todd |
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corter
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Joined: July 29, 2012
Posts: 148
Location: Boston
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| Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 10:47 am Post subject: |
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It's very rare that I have an update these days since Dylan's doing the dirty work, but I got to hop on the phone and source some parts locally this week.
First up, new windshield. I opted out of the clear stock-looking windshield options because they were all no-name chinese made pieces and I've had first hand experience with those looking like a fishbowl from the inside. I went with a PWG windshield with the tint at the top. At 6'4" it's a better option than bonking my head on the sun visor anyway.
Next, tires. 225/75r16 BF Goodrich All Terrain T/A KO's. I went with the 75's as opposed to the 70's because they've got a class E load rating as opposed to a Class C for the 70's. Also according to the beach websites it will let me drive on many more beaches here (though I hear they don't check, better safe than sorry). They'll be mounted on my Ronal R9's with a Mercedes steel spare, so hopefully there won't be fitment issues beyond trimming fenders.
Oh, and Gary Lee made me up a pretty awesome ladder. At this point talking about anything aesthetic seems to jinx things, so I'll leave it at that. |
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steewoz
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Joined: November 12, 2009
Posts: 170
Location: Boston
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| Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 4:12 pm Post subject: |
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Double check the tire size specifications for an Oversand Permit on the Cape. I don't think a 225/75 on a 16' rim hits the requirements. Although, they don't look too closely at tire sizes for beach permits at the National Seashore... especially if it's really hot and humid out!
They just want to see your full size spare , jack, board, and gauge. Have fun watching the instructional movie... it's hilarious.
_________________
87 Syncro
15 Rubicon
Vans With At Least One Wheel In the Air
www.facebook.com/driveslowtakechances |
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Phishman068
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Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1998
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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Syncroincity
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Joined: April 15, 2007
Posts: 1557
Location: New York City
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| Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 5:22 pm Post subject: |
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I have those tires on mine. They are true LT tires, with a stiff sidewall. They weigh a lot, too, so keep that in mind... but you get much greater load capacity. The Tire Rack website has a nice size matrix to compare as far as size, weight, diameter, revs per mile etc.
Mine are on Mefro 16" steelies ET35 2" lift. I did need to space my rears out a bit to clear the stock rear arm pinch weld. Fronts fit well.
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'86 Syncro CHC Top AAZ Turbodiesel
'04 Passat Variant 4Mo 5MT
Vanagon Build: http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=466866&highlight= |
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insyncro
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Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 5:33 pm Post subject: |
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Spacing will mean longer studs will be needed in the rear with the R9s.
Please check fitment with Christopher /T3technique when a tire is chosen.
I dont remember the ET of the 16s.
I have longer Porsche studs onhand if needed. |
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corter
Samba Member
Joined: July 29, 2012
Posts: 148
Location: Boston
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| Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 5:40 pm Post subject: |
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| Phishman068 wrote: |
One thing to note....
225/70/16 fits "BARELY" on many different rims.
225/75/16 pretty much never fits without modifying the trailing arms and adjusting to have a perfect offset with spacers and what not....
BIG difference in fitment between those two sizes.
Gearing as well. |
Yep, my wheels are et23 so they should fit like having a 15mm spacer from stock, hopefully that will take care of most of it with the 2" lift plus 1/2" spacers in back. I talked to Daryl when I had both my front and rear transaxles rebuild and he took care of me 
If I have to take some metal off the trailing arms or space the wheels out a little bit more that's cool too.
Last edited by corter on Fri Oct 18, 2013 5:47 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Phishman068
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Joined: February 19, 2007
Posts: 1998
Location: Pittsburgh PA (ish)
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insyncro
Banned
Joined: March 07, 2002
Posts: 15086
Location: New York
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| Posted: Fri Oct 18, 2013 5:48 pm Post subject: |
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| corter wrote: |
| Phishman068 wrote: |
One thing to note....
225/70/16 fits "BARELY" on many different rims.
225/75/16 pretty much never fits without modifying the trailing arms and adjusting to have a perfect offset with spacers and what not....
BIG difference in fitment between those two sizes.
Gearing as well. |
Yep, my wheels are et23 so hopefully that will take care of most of it with the 2" lift plus 1/2" spacers in back. I talked to Daryl when I had both my front and rear transaxles rebuild and he took care of me
If I have to take some metal off the trailing arms or space the wheels out a little bit more that's cool too. |
Just so we are clear, you need to properly remove the pinch weld and reinforce the trailing arm once removed.
Burley would be who I choose to beef up the rear arms.
Check the Das Mule site, they show what you must remove to allow for such large tires.
As I have stated from the beginning of the project, the tires you plan to use are HUGE and with 4.86 R&Ps / stock gearing, you will feel them, every pound of them when accelerating and braking.
Please make sure this combo will fit. |
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