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Bret2094
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 4:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

W1K1 wrote:
You don't need a special tool for the oil pump when the case bolts are loose, it should pop right out. It's just needed when you need to get it out without splitting the case.


X2.

Just dont forget about it once all the nuts are off and you start nudging the case with a rubber hammer. you wont get far without removing it


Bret
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1959 baja beetle ragtop( going back to Full body)
1959 beetle
1960 Beetle frame Custom buggy
1962 Karmann Ghia
1967 beetle( august 66, first car)
1967 beetle (parts car)

1977 Westfalia Camper

1972 Plymouth Duster

Just another 22 year old jackass who caught the bug, and lives by the motto " NO fatchicks allowed" , I've got too many cars as is (buses N/A)
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Cplatcek
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 5:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bret2094 wrote:
W1K1 wrote:
You don't need a special tool for the oil pump when the case bolts are loose, it should pop right out. It's just needed when you need to get it out without splitting the case.


X2.

Just dont forget about it once all the nuts are off and you start nudging the case with a rubber hammer. you wont get far without removing it


Bret


Oh nice! I was sad that I wasn't going to get the case split this weekend Very Happy

Well here are some pics of the crack in the head, little worse than I thought. What do you guys think?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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Bret2094
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 12, 2014 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cplatcek wrote:
Bret2094 wrote:
W1K1 wrote:
You don't need a special tool for the oil pump when the case bolts are loose, it should pop right out. It's just needed when you need to get it out without splitting the case.


X2.

Just dont forget about it once all the nuts are off and you start nudging the case with a rubber hammer. you wont get far without removing it


Bret


Oh nice! I was sad that I wasn't going to get the case split this weekend Very Happy

Well here are some pics of the crack in the head, little worse than I thought. What do you guys think?

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.



holy crap.....i aint ever dealt with cracks from there. i'm sure someone has, but off the last 10 engines that ive come across, they all seem to crack around the sparkplugs. That's cray cray

Bret
_________________
1959 baja beetle ragtop( going back to Full body)
1959 beetle
1960 Beetle frame Custom buggy
1962 Karmann Ghia
1967 beetle( august 66, first car)
1967 beetle (parts car)

1977 Westfalia Camper

1972 Plymouth Duster

Just another 22 year old jackass who caught the bug, and lives by the motto " NO fatchicks allowed" , I've got too many cars as is (buses N/A)
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 9:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yeah, that almost looks like impact damage, from being dropped, or struck by something.
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 12:11 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Donnie strickland wrote:
Yeah, that almost looks like impact damage, from being dropped, or struck by something.


That was my thought too. Find an aluminum welder, and just have the crack welded up. Very Happy
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64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
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Cplatcek
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 13, 2014 8:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:
Donnie strickland wrote:
Yeah, that almost looks like impact damage, from being dropped, or struck by something.


That was my thought too. Find an aluminum welder, and just have the crack welded up. Very Happy


Yea I'm not sure what caused it, I never dropped or hit the heads. That's what I was wondering if it was fine to just have someone weld it or if I would have to replace it. Thanks!
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Cplatcek
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the case cracked open today, it came apart very easy!

What should be my next step?
I was thinking of bringing everything to a shop and having them check the parts(pistons, cylinders, cranks, cams, pushrods) and see if anything needs to be replaced. I don't really know what I'm looking at when it comes to part fatigue.
I don't want to drop the $$ for an entire rebuild kit so what would be the minimum I should replace while I have it apart, this is with the idea that the above parts are all good and re-useable.

thanks
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Bret2094
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 14, 2014 9:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cplatcek wrote:
Got the case cracked open today, it came apart very easy!

What should be my next step?
I was thinking of bringing everything to a shop and having them check the parts(pistons, cylinders, cranks, cams, pushrods) and see if anything needs to be replaced. I don't really know what I'm looking at when it comes to part fatigue.
I don't want to drop the $$ for an entire rebuild kit so what would be the minimum I should replace while I have it apart, this is with the idea that the above parts are all good and re-useable.

thanks

Spend a day cleaning everything up good. Degrease and clean your engine case in and out, along with your inner parts. Makes inspection way easier, and you wont have oil going everywhere. make sure to have the crank, rods and engine case checked by a reputable vw engine shop. When you take the rods off of the crank, make sure and label which is which. I'd say mic everything out yourself, but sounds like you haven't done this before. dont forget to take your dowels for the main bearings out and put em in a zip lock bag so you wont lose em. I'm curious, so could you snap some closeups of the bearing journals on your case? ( they are where the bearings for the case sat)

Bret
_________________
1959 baja beetle ragtop( going back to Full body)
1959 beetle
1960 Beetle frame Custom buggy
1962 Karmann Ghia
1967 beetle( august 66, first car)
1967 beetle (parts car)

1977 Westfalia Camper

1972 Plymouth Duster

Just another 22 year old jackass who caught the bug, and lives by the motto " NO fatchicks allowed" , I've got too many cars as is (buses N/A)
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W1K1
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 7:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/jim_martin_engine_build.php

This article will tell you most of what you need to know on measuring, also look at super beetles.com performance 101, it covers much of a rebuild.

The bentley manual has all the dimensions and wear limits of a stock engine.

DO NOT buy parts and expect them to fit out of the box or be within spec for your build. YOU MUST MEASURE EVERYTHING.

The engine should be mocked up before final assembly a few times to check fit of different parts.

Balancing even a lowly 1600 will make a big difference in how long it lasts and how smooth it revs. Refer back to measure everything
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Donnie strickland
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cplatcek wrote:
I don't want to drop the $$ for an entire rebuild kit so what would be the minimum I should replace while I have it apart, this is with the idea that the above parts are all good and re-useable.


Yes, there's no need in spending money unnecessarily, but this is not the place to try and cut corners. If you reuse a marginal part, you'll be doing all of this over again in a few miles.

Your idea about taking things to a shop for measurement is a good one, but make sure it's a place you can trust and which knows about our engines. That can be a little difficult to find, which is why so many folks do it themselves. Previous posters have given good advice above.
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Our local Carquest machine shop has a good reputation, but I would be tempted to do the mock up myself.
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Cplatcek
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 1:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for all the replies guys! Lots of good info. I have most of the motor cleaned up; had to take a break and wrench on the Cj for a while. I'm going to bring everything to a shop in a nearby town that is very reliable.

The main items I was hoping to reuse where pistons, crank, cam, and cylinders...I know I will have to replace the races, piston rings, seals, cam followers?, and other items.

After I got one half all cleaned up I was greeted with this sight:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


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What should I do about this? it looks like it would seal around the outside edge....[/img]
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 1:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cplatcek wrote:

After I got one half all cleaned up I was greeted with this sight:

Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


What should I do about this? it looks like it would seal around the outside edge....[/img]


There's not really a whole lot you can do about that. It water damaged. Meaning it's been sitting a while with water in the bottom of the case (water eating the magnesium). You could try building up/filling in some of it with JB weld, but using some silicone on the gaskets will probably work as well. In reality, you should start looking for another case though, for a long term solution.
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71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
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Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Cplatcek
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 2:58 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Bobnotch wrote:

There's not really a whole lot you can do about that. It water damaged. Meaning it's been sitting a while with water in the bottom of the case (water eating the magnesium). You could try building up/filling in some of it with JB weld, but using some silicone on the gaskets will probably work as well. In reality, you should start looking for another case though, for a long term solution.


Alright, that's kind of the route I figured most of you would say...long term I plan on doing a different motor entirely
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Mike Fisher
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 19, 2014 3:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fill it all with JB Weld as you could use the strength on the studs & use it. Nothing to lose in trying on that sump. It will be forever known as the Two Harbors engine that ran for 150,000 miles patched up! Cool
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 20, 2014 9:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cplatcek wrote:
Bobnotch wrote:

There's not really a whole lot you can do about that. It water damaged. Meaning it's been sitting a while with water in the bottom of the case (water eating the magnesium). You could try building up/filling in some of it with JB weld, but using some silicone on the gaskets will probably work as well. In reality, you should start looking for another case though, for a long term solution.


Alright, that's kind of the route I figured most of you would say...long term I plan on doing a different motor entirely


I've seen them worse than that, and still in use (it's in a bug). I've even got 1 here that's not quite that bad, that I'm still using. I just make sure I use some ultra copper permatex on the gaskets to seal the sump plate on it. It's been working for about 18 or 19 years now. The key is sealing the grooves and pock marks, so you don't leak oil out. Wink
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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Cplatcek
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 21, 2014 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mike Fisher wrote:
Fill it all with JB Weld as you could use the strength on the studs & use it. Nothing to lose in trying on that sump. It will be forever known as the Two Harbors engine that ran for 150,000 miles patched up! Cool


Haha I would take that!

Here I thought my case might be un-useable, what a relief!
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Cplatcek
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 5:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Haven't worked much on the square recently...actually its out in the snow due to other projects taking up space. However I recently came across a Type 4 motor out of a 1975 Porsche 914 112k running motor, complete for 100$$. I was thinking about picking it up instead of rebuilding my 1600. I did some reading online and the install looks fairly straightforward.
Thoughts on this?
Are these motors better than type 3s?
Does anyone have a link to a conversion guide?
Will it bolt up to my manual trans?


Thanks much!
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Cplatcek
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 13, 2015 1:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also where is a good place to buy carpet from? Either pre molded or a roll of it that I can trim/ fit myself if its a lot cheaper.

Thanks
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Bobnotch
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 14, 2015 9:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cplatcek wrote:
Also where is a good place to buy carpet from? Either pre molded or a roll of it that I can trim/ fit myself if its a lot cheaper.

Thanks


I've been using the TMI brand carpet kit from J-Bugs. It's about 100 bucks for a black kit that does the main interior space (like that of a Notch or Fastback). They're ok for what you're buying/paying. If you want something better, go with a Sew Fine kit (about 3X the money).
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Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120
Tram wrote:
"Friends are God's way of apologizing for relatives."
Tram wrote:
People keep confusing "restored" and "restroyed".
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