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Vanagon: Oil and Oil Filters
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brownbetty
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 9:12 pm    Post subject: Vanagon: Oil and Oil Filters Reply with quote

[Moderator note: This topic is now locked. Please use the new, updated topic for continued discussion: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=764725 .]


Great site, I appreciate all the sage advice. About to conquer my first oil change and was wondering what brand and weight is recommended and what brand of filter to use. If anyone has any tricks or tips it would also be greatly appreciated.[/i]
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shaunspad
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 9:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I recently bought a 1986 vanagon with the 2.1 and I used 10W 40 mobile one synthetic. I was hopeing to lower the engine temperature a few degrees by running synthetic since it has done so on all my other vehicles in the past. As far as the filter goes I just ran over to kragen and got a Fram filter and the Mobile 1 synthetic motor oil. So far I would say my temp guage is just slightly below where it used to be so it worked for me.

My engine has 150K on it and it purrs like a kitten.

Good luck!
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buspor63
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 26, 2005 9:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Only use Mann or Mahle oil filters. Oil weights is another story. On my 100K mile WBX I use 10/40 Valvoline dino oil. Others will have differing opinions. I based my descision on the Volvo world where I once read a theory about using medium weight oils that sounded good to me.
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 3:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Male/Mann filters (busdepot) and Mobil 1 15-50 (walmart) in my air cooled.
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mlf
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 3:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

oil filters from my local vw dealer . castol syntec 20w 50 .
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molson88
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 5:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mahle/Mann filters and Castrol Syntec 5w50 (Costco).

I find the 5w50 synthetic gives me slightly higher oil pressure than the 20w50 dino oil I used prior to switching, plus it makes for much easier starting on cold mornings.

Fram filters are evil... Twisted Evil
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alnvilma
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 7:10 am    Post subject: oil weight Reply with quote

If you read the owner's manual, the factory suggests 15x40 or 20x50 over about 70 degress F. 10x30/40 is too thin for heat.
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mightyart
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 7:14 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mann filters and Castrol 20w 50
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I agree, 10-30 is too thin for me.
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DanJReed
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

20w-50 - Valvoline Max Life - Mann filter.

I drive mainly in summer.
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Tram
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 9:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Everyone is telling you Mann or Mahle oil filters, but without telling you WHY. THOSE filters have the proper check valve that helps prevent all of the oil backdraining with the engine off. This prevents "dry starts" and often significantly lessens or eliminates collapsed lifter clatter after sitting for several days.
WIX filters also have the check valve, if you can't find Mann or Mahle.
My lubricant of choice is Castrol Syntec 5w50. You can't beat it. It'll flow at 30 below zero, and give great protection at high heats as well. Plus, with this oil and the filter with the check valve, you'll hardly ever hear your lifters, if ever.
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DanJReed
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PostPosted: Wed Apr 27, 2005 11:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good point about the filter design, I have cut open a Fram, and a Mann and a Mahle.

The German filters beat the *pants* off Fram. My students start to ask for them (Mann) for Civics and such!

2 other filters that seem to stand up well are Purolator and the K&N designs. Both (I have cut open) and find that they all have metal caps, and quality silicone anti-drain back valves... Also Motorcraft (Ford) OEM filters are high quality and I believe are made by Purolator .

But its German filters for my German cars...
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vandukw
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 6:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Why the concern about using only filters with the anti drain-back valve, the filter is almost upsidedown when installed, does the oil in waterboxers defy the laws of gravity?
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Randy in Maine
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PostPosted: Fri Feb 10, 2006 7:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Actually they do defy gravity. Shocked

Use the Mahle/Mann and pre-load them.
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Mulcheese
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2006 5:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Check this out, they dont test Mann/Mahle but they give some useful info on many others.
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

Hope this helps in the all the debating.
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mr_vanagon
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 11, 2006 7:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have used Fram PH2870A oil filters on my vanagon for more than 200K miles with no problems. I understand the need for the anti-drain back valve and I wonder if the Fram doesn't have it. I don't have a Fram filter in front of me to check either. I notice that the part number has a letter at the end. With Fram stuff (and most other products) a letter usually means there has been a big revision in the design. Might this "A" indicate the addition of an anti-drain back valve? I called the folks at Honeywell (parent of allied signal who makes, among other stuff Fram filters) to ask about this but they don't do support on the weekends. I’ll be happy to call on Monday and report back.
For oil I have long used Pennzoil 20w50. Picking a brand of oil is like picking a brand of shoelaces. They all sort of work the same unless they fail all together. Any name brand will work about as well as any other. Check to be sure there is an API rating on the back of the bottle. Often the store brand is made by one of the big guys and packaged in a diff bottle. A division of Pennzoil-Quaker State makes the Wal-Mart brand for instance.
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mr_vanagon
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 12, 2006 7:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I checked a Fram Ph2870A at the FLAPS today. There is most assuradly an anti-drain back valve on this filter. I cannot speak to the quality of the filter medium but I can see the "valve" in the end of the filter. I still plan to check with the fram people about this revision and the numbering scheme.
Jim
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mr_vanagon
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PostPosted: Mon Feb 13, 2006 12:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I talked with a tech support guy at Honeywell today. He tells me that the Fram PH2870A indeed has an anti-drain back valve and is safe for use with a 2.1L Vanagon. It seems that the common feeling about this filter is likely based on old ideas from back when the PH2870 was in use without an anti-drain-back valve. As I have said, this says nothing about the quality of the filter medium in a Fram filter. I would use a Fram filter on a 2.1 with no fear of damage. My next investigation will be of the cheap green prestone antifreeze. The info on the web says the green stuff is phosphate free and is safe for all cars and light duty applications. I assume that the ideas about this being a bad product for vanagons is also based on an older product that had phosphates unlike the blue VW stuff. I'll keep you posted.
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r39o
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

mr_vanagon wrote:
My next investigation will be of the cheap green prestone antifreeze. The info on the web says the green stuff is phosphate free and is safe for all cars and light duty applications. I assume that the ideas about this being a bad product for vanagons is also based on an older product that had phosphates unlike the blue VW stuff. I'll keep you posted.

I thought it had to be silicate free too? Right?

Also, what is light duty?
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r39o
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 14, 2006 11:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

BTW: a quick google of the web http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=antifreeze+color&spell=1 indicates the color is meaningless today. Also, you can mix and match colors as much as you want, it just tends to reduce the lifetime of the coolant, but does not hurt they engine, so they write.

This sure does suck!
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