| Author |
Message |
nick.falconer Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2011 Posts: 79 Location: Stanmore Bay, Auckland, New Zealand
|
Posted: Wed May 11, 2011 4:42 pm Post subject: Frame Head Replacement |
|
|
I have a damaged frame head on my chassis and I have managed to get a chassis with a good frame head but the rest is bad.
I want to swap the frame heads over. I have found a panalbeater that will do it, but I would like to remove the two frame heads myself and just get him to weld it up as to save as much money as I can.
Here is the good frame head:
The red circles are where I have found welds and the yellow is possibly one, not too sure. Are those all the welds with the same on the other side.
Also what is the correct tool to use. I have tried looking, but not sure if I should use an air hammer or grinder to remove it.
Thanks |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
benny27 Samba Member
Joined: April 08, 2005 Posts: 194 Location: Bloomington IL
|
Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 4:42 am Post subject: |
|
|
you do not have to cut at the welds. take your old frame head and cut out all the rust then cut the good frame head to fit.
when I did mine I went all the way up to just be for the shifter.
you can cut it with a grinder with a cut off disk.
make sher to measure a LOT
post up a pic of the bad frame head |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
nick.falconer Samba Member
Joined: January 09, 2011 Posts: 79 Location: Stanmore Bay, Auckland, New Zealand
|
Posted: Thu May 12, 2011 6:44 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Here are some pics of the bad frame head:
That is the bad side. It is also twisted slightly
The reason I want to just cut off the spot welds is because that is what I have been told as the spot welds on the two chassis should match up pretty closely. Which should make it easier to weld back on. Also that is the only damage. Also this is for a beach buggy so it shouldn't matter if it sits slightly forward or back, just so long as it is square. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Bob Kaufman Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2011 Posts: 3 Location: pittsburgh,pa
|
Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 5:54 pm Post subject: Frame Head Assembly Jig |
|
|
| I am a new member with a 1970 vert I am restoring. Aside from the usual floor pans, heater channels and body rust I discovered that the frame head probably requires replacement. Having read a number of comments in this and other sites I came across VW's Plan 670, frame head Jig Assembly. Also the 12.71 Publication Korjaustyot, tyyppi 1, A20.2 which I believe is not German but Finnish. Have any members constructed such a Jig assembly and is there an English translation of the publication? Although helpful comments and pictures appear throughout many threads I am reluctant to start the replacement without more information. Any help from a member would be appreciated. |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
T8kitease Samba Member

Joined: March 17, 2006 Posts: 163 Location: Long Island, N.Y.
|
Posted: Fri Sep 30, 2011 6:56 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I replaced my framehead on my 70 and made my own jig. I just duplicated the beam which is 2" O.D. tubing and some scrap square tubing with a central mounts tacked to the lip along the side of the tunnel near shifter.
Check out my thread for some other views. Hope this helps out. Good luck! _________________ Matt
70 Beetle Resto
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=450346 |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
gorbur Samba Member

Joined: October 10, 2010 Posts: 214 Location: West of Calgary
|
Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 5:23 pm Post subject: Twist to a Frame Head Replacement |
|
|
Did a very similar replacement. I didnt have a donor frame so cut the frame head only off of an aftermarket assembly. I wanted to minimize the lighter tin in favour of keeping as much of the original German steel as possible. The original is easily cut with a thin cutting disk (2" and 4") its delicate but doable. Alignment is the most critical. I made a jig to keep it parallel to the rear tortion bar tube. The tricky part was to set the negative caster (didnt have those pics) . Hope these pics help you.
_________________ 73 - Ghia Cabriolet, currently under resto
76 - Type1, 1776, full restomod |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
Bob Kaufman Samba Member
Joined: September 30, 2011 Posts: 3 Location: pittsburgh,pa
|
Posted: Sun Oct 02, 2011 6:47 pm Post subject: |
|
|
| T8kitease wrote: |
I replaced my framehead on my 70 and made my own jig. I just duplicated the beam which is 2" O.D. tubing and some scrap square tubing with a central mounts tacked to the lip along the side of the tunnel near shifter.
Check out my thread for some other views. Hope this helps out. Good luck! |
Thanks for the info. Your work is impressive. Probably will have more questions in the future. Trust you don't mind.
Bob |
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
T8kitease Samba Member

Joined: March 17, 2006 Posts: 163 Location: Long Island, N.Y.
|
|
| Back to top |
|
 |
|