New Aux Air Regulator(Valve), Still Available?

[77VWBusDude]

(1977 2.0 FI Bus)

My beast won't warm up no more...Anyone know where I could find one? Closest thing I can find is a very similar looking one for a 924/Audi 5000/Quantum, this one:
http://www.thepartsbin.com/repsite/bosch~auxiliary_air_valve~reparts.html
Think it'll work, albeit possibly with a little adaptation?
Oo, here's a cheaper one:
http://www.evwparts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Scr...DasherFuel

I ran across a thread made about a year and a half ago about someone who replaced theirs with a "new one", BusBerd:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=227274
Wonder where he got it

Hey, BTW, check out this parts interchange chart:
http://www.type2.com/library/fuel/fuelibo.htm
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'77 Bus auto EFI(stock)

[Randy in Maine]

Did you try cleaning yours?

[77VWBusDude]

I did...like ten years/30,000 miles ago I remember it being pretty crusty/decrepit though, like it was deteriorating. Figured I'd better get a new one, before they stop making them, maybe keep the old one as a spare, if I can get it working again. That element can't last forever, can it?
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'77 Bus auto EFI(stock)

[Vwman55]

Mid America Motor Works:
http://www.mamotorworks.com/acvw?frame=1.7874
JC Whitney:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/PYTHON-INJECTION-AUXILIAR..._10101.jcw

[77VWBusDude]

The Mid America one says "Temporary Shortage" and the JC Whitney link mentions no Bus, should I buy one for a 1977 FI Beetle or something? Oh yeah huh, Mid America lists the same part for 75-79 Beetle, so the one for the Beetle on JC Whitney should work, but I'd rather have a new Bosch unit that a Python reman, though. Maybe I'll just buy that one in my first post for a Dasher.

At what temperature should the valve be fully open? I put it in the freezer and it looked to be about 80% open, although I don't know what "fully open" looks like with this funky valve. At room temperature it appears to be 25% open. Seems like it should be more open than that at room temperature, right?

Can it be taken apart to be cleaned? Or is this just an adjustment screw? If that is an adjustment screw should I adjust it to be fully open at room temperature, or what? It does have the correct 30 ohms. I thought I cleaned it ten years ago, but that was the EGR valve How do you clean it?

Gracias

I just pulled the aux air valve out of the oven, heating it to 175 degrees, and it's air tight as a drum. Maybe that's how you adjust it, to be at the point where it's just fully closed at 175 degrees?
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'77 Bus auto EFI(stock)

[busdaddy]

IIRC there's an adjustment on the end of the unit, I think fully closed @ 175 is too high, but not having taken the temperature of one after the element has warmed up I can't say for sure. If you look at it like a choke element on a carbed engine fully open @ 30-40 and closed @ 100-120 would seem right (gotta think backwards here). I'd set it to be just reaching fully open @ room temp and try it, let the warm setting fall where it may. If you are still getting high idle after the engine is warm it needs to be closed more @ room temp.
Fill it with carb cleaner and shake it for a while, then blow it out with compressed air, I doubt you can make it worse doing that.

As for a lifter causing a hard start, not likely, they still close when soft and at least a couple of cylinders are going to get a full charge of air. I'd be looking at points, plug wires, timing and the cold start valve as well as injector base seals myself.
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[77VWBusDude]

I filled it with parts cleaning solvent, shook it, blew it out with an air nozzle, and then sprayed in some penetrating oil to lube it, then blew it out again. I tryed to adjust it, but the adjuster was already at it's limit. So the question remains, should it be more that 25%/maybe 30% open at room temperature?

Maybe I'll try running a straight hose from the "S" boot to the intake(bypassing the aux air valve)to simulate it being fully open, see if it will idle cold then.
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'77 Bus auto EFI(stock)

[germansupplyscott]

[nick9]

Rather than trying to heat the Aux. Air Vlave externally, you can hook it up to a battery with a spare connector (or alligator clips) and the vane should close fully on its own within 30-60 seconds. Then adjust it for running, if needed, to where it's just closed. Then disconnect the wires and freeze it to make sure it will open to about half-way. Then repeat the hookup to battery to make sure it fully closes, if you want to double check. A light turbine oil (or light spray) after cleaning seems to help it's movement.

[77VWBusDude]

I think it's good to test it both ways. Can't be too sure!, but thanks for the tip. If you run to the store, then come back out to start it and the top of the motor is still 150 degrees, the valve needs to be able to keep itself closed without the assistance of ECU voltage. The ECU might not actually even supply voltage to it above that temp. By setting my oven to 150 degrees I can adjust the valve so it's just beginning to be fully closed right at that temp. Who knows what temp the battery is making it.
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'77 Bus auto EFI(stock)

[77VWBusDude]

I can't believe the busdepot forgot to list this part being compatible for '72-'79 Buses...unless I'm missing something?

https://busdepot.com/details.jsp?partnumber=0280140101

Aux. Air Valve
Part Reference Number*: 0280140101
Brand: Bosch/Germany*
Availability: Usually ships in 1-3 working days (sooner if ordered via air shipment)
Price $76.88

10% off coupon on the main page right now too!

They have it listed for 68-71 Bus and 80-83 Vanagon, but not '72-'79 Bus

but according to Type2.com's Fuel Injection Bosch Parts Interchange chart
http://www.type2.com/library/fuel/fuelibo.htm

AUXILIARY AIR VALVE, 0 280 140 101
Porsche
1976 912E 1970cc
1975 914 1795cc
1974 914 1970cc
Volkswagen
1979-75 Type 1 1584cc (AJ) Beetle
1979-74 Type 2 1970cc, 1795cc
1974 Type 4 1795cc (EA,EC)
1985-80 Vanagon 1913cc, 1970cc

This chart further shows the AAR was used '74-'79
http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FISwap.html
(part #022 906 045A translates to Bosch part #0 280 140 101 in one of the charts in that first link http://www.type2.com/library/fuel/fuelibo.htm)

I'm going to pull mine out and verify the part # just to be sure before ordering though. I was thinking about drilling the adjustment slot to allow more tweaking, but now I don't have to!
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'77 Bus auto EFI(stock)

[germansupplyscott]

[77VWBusDude]

Well, I ordered it before you posted that. Guess I'll see what happens. You'd think with so many applications, 914, Beetle, Bus, Vanagon, etc. Bosch'd still make them. Grr, 'bout to switch to dual carbs!, lol. Maybe they send out repros, wouldn't be first time that happened to me.
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'77 Bus auto EFI(stock)

[SGKent]

not to burst your bubble but I spoke with BD this morning on that. They have none nor do any of their suppliers. If you get one from them tell me please as maybe it will be under some other part number. They looked under both the Bosch and VW part numbers as both are shown on their site. IF you find someone who has the originals let me know because I am wanting one too. Scott at German Supply has a substitute on his website that he says works well, and there are a few places online who say they sell remanufactured ones. What the heck is going on with the world when companies stop selling what people want? No wonder we are in a recession.

It looks like a rebuilt Python 342-902 might work. I am always leary of rebuilt things without a baseline to go off of.
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[Blaubus]

heres a new one for the 2 liter 914:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=320799

bosch # agrees with type2.com's # for the 77-79 bus

022 porsche # agrees with ratwell part # for the 77-79 bus, except that ratwell has an "A" and the ad does not. but the box states no 022 porsche #, and the seller is stating it as a recollection.

i think its the right one

[SGKent]

good catch Dansvan.

I saw one on Pelican for about the same price. Sent an e-mail tonight to Python to see what they do to theirs when they rebuild them They have a model 342-902 that fits the correct year Vanagon and Porsche so my guess is that it will fit the bus too. They are as low as $35 on the Internet but I have no idea if they are any good although Python guarantees them for 1 year. I will post their answer Monday or Tuesday when they get back to me. In the meantime I have another line on one of these NOS for much less.
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"Most people don't know what they're doing, and a lot of them are really good at it." - George Carlin

[77VWBusDude]

[geopanoramic]

Two years later - I still see them advertised at Bus Depot for ~80 $

First though, I am not really sure my problem is the aux air regulator.

I am willing to try to clean mine (how exactly?: carb. cleaner, then freezer, then oven?). The fact that I can blow through mine suggests that it is at least open during start up, which is the way it is supposed to be right? (Before the bimetallic strip closes it off)...

MY bus is a 1975 1800 Air Flow Control fuel ignition motor with 135K original.

Thanks for the help!

[SGKent]

[raygreenwood]

You guys do know...that there are at least 25 different part #'s for these right? They were used on virtually every European watercooled car through the 70's and into the 90's.

That being said there is a huge range of variations and some may be quite difficult. Some are adjustable, some not. Some have larger or smaller inlets and outlets. Some have different size heaters for different time factors. Some have engineered bleed holes and notches in the sliding plate.

The big point being that you should also check for usable part #'s in Mercedes, Volvo, Saab, Audi, Skoda, Seat etc. Ray