Hard to start when hot

[Girenemarine]

I have a 1971 Super Beetle that is in mint condition but it is hard to start after it gets hot .
It start quick when cold . Any suggestions appreciated . Thanks Wayne

[ashman40]

More details please...
What do you mean by "hard to start"?

Does the engine NOT turn over when hot? Does it turn over slowly? Does the starter solenoid just "click"?

Does it turn over (crank) normally, but won't "catch" and run?

Does it start but not idle?

Do you need to pump the accelerator pedal to get it to start when hot?
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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[jlex]

I'll bet he's experiencing a bit of choking up (flooded) when it's hot. If it's cranking okay, push the accelerator pedal to the floor all the way & hold it down while you're cranking. It'll dump the extra fuel & get you out of a flooded condition. Typical of these cars...
But yeah, Ashman can solve your problem if you give a more thorough explanation...
And welcome to the board! See if you can post a pic of that mint condition beetle!
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jlex.
'70 std. "Elsie"
'88 Carrera

[Robby_H]

1) bad starter
2) valve adjustment needed
3) carb adjustment needed
4) other

being "hard to start hot" is a very vague description

[Abandonhope16]

I'm curious to see where this goes, as I experience a similar problem.

After short drives, the engine gets pretty hot. Then when I try to start the car, it turns over but doesnt catch.

I think my source is overheating, but I cant figure out what is causing it to overheat.
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1970 Vert - My First

[toyvergnugen]

Try replacing the coil.

[TheRustySuper]

[Abandonhope16]

[kangaboy]

Thats awesome RustySuper!! Thanks for that. Now i know my carbs rnt all jacked up or somthing.
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-74 Standard - "CaliBug" 2084T, MS3X w/FI and Crank Fire
-76 Westy - "Gandalf"
-18 GTI SE

[candymustang65]

If you had the proper plastic tear drop inline fuel filter installed correctly between the fuel pump and carb you could eliminate several hard start problem's as to what exactly is going on with one look at the filter .
1) No squirt < unlikely hold choke open and actuate throttle while looking down carb throat to see if you got good healthy stream .
2) Too big of a squirt ? < more likely than no squirt adjust throttle pump shaft on carb to reduce squirt .
3) combination of excessive fuel pump pressure overideing the carb inlett valve causeing a fatt condition then you press the pedal givin a flooded condition a squirt more of fuel on top of it.
4 )Combination of 2 and3 in conjunction with closed up pitted / burned
point's , badd timming ( Most probable )
5) In addition to this you should also runn a hard start relay on your starter with a new starter shaft bushing for a good dependable spinn of the engine .
Note : If fuel pump pressure / Carb inlett valve is addressed so that your engine isnt supporting a fatt or flooded condition it will allow you to adjust the carb throttle pump rodd to maximize your throttle pump squirt and will increase performance .
I use a plastic inline tear drop fuel filter between fuel pump and carb installed correctly to trouble shoot fuel problem's .
Use of any other filter or installed inncorrectly can and will start an engine fire ( Metal or glass filter's should never be used )
Sean

[kauai]

holding the throttle open will help clear out the extra fuel, sounds like its overheating check all ur cooling componets

[cookrw]

[ashman40]

Two common sources for flooding...

1) When the fuel pump pressure exceeds the inlet valve/float's ability to stop the flow (bad pressure adjustment or bad float/valve)... fuel will start pouring from the vent tube down the carb throat.

2) The driver who decides he needs to pump the pedal 10x while cranking this engine. This WILL pump LOTS of fuel into the carb throat.

A single pump & hold should not flood the engine. Give it a try with your engine/carb combo. Some engines don't need it. The vacuum created while cranking will draw enough air/fuel to start.
Other engines may need 1/4-pedal; 1/2-pedal or the full-pedal squirt to start when warm.

You do want to step in the accelerator pedal a bit when first starting in the morning. This is not for the fuel, but to allow the choke cam to fall into place and for the choke butterfly to close.
_________________
AshMan40
---------------------------
'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[jlex]

[Paul Windisch]

[Schnitzel]

i have a 74 super with the SAME problem it starts great cold, but warm it takes a bit longer to catch.

[Arad06130]

I have dealt with this problem for the last year on my 67 VW Bug. I did install the hot start relay because after a while I would just get a click when the bug wouldn't start when it was hot. The rely did make this problem go away but I still had the problem of no start or difficult start when she was all nice and toasty. This seems to be a common problem on all the boards and everyone seems to have the same answer without listening to the problem. The motor is turning over! it's just not starting. I finally found a post from a guy with the exact same problem and he got the same answers but at the end of the thread, he said his son suggested changing the COIL. That made all the sense in the world to me so I did it and now problem SOLVED!

It's the freaking COIL - if its old and weak it gets weaker when it get's hot and doesn't give the spark you need to fire up.

[lboos]

What jlex said. it's common on most all air cooled engine's .

[vamram]

What carb do you have? Most of the chinese after-market 34-3 carbs are made of really light metals and I think are susceptible to heat soak, which, if hot enough, can cause the gas in the bowl to bubble and overflow into the intake. Basically flooding the engine making for a hard host start.
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[davidw99]